Lubricating table saw trunion gear teeth and worm gear ?

[Kelly Colin Mark]

Recently my Sawstop contractor saw tilt mechanism started getting tighter and tighter until, finally, it would barely budge at all, even if I had both hands on the wheel and applied all my weight.

I contract Sawstop's excellent (as always) customer support and they suggested cleaning the trunion teeth and worm gear. This surprised me a bit as I am a very infrequent user of my saw, and there really wasn't much stuff there, but I gave it a shot. I couldn't get a brass brush in there to clean the teeth - the opening at the front is slightly offset from the height of the teeth, but after a long, long time and a lot of compressed air it is finally moving again.

Sawstop recommended lubricating these parts, and suggested a wheel bearing grease, but I know a lot of people don't like greases since they attract dust - and since that's what presumably caused my problem, I'm loathe to go there again. They also suggested a dry silicon lube, but I thought silicon products were a no-no near your table saw. They also said that dry silicon lube would not hold up well to the pressures between those parts and would require more frequent lubrication (not a problem).

What's the current wisdom on lubricating these parts ? I've seen people suggesting just about everything - paste wax, T9, vaseline, powdered graphite.

Specific product suggestions would be appreciated !

Also, what do I need to do to prep for lubrication ? I'd really, really rather not have to take the top off let alone disassemble the parts. Is blowing with compressed air enough ? If things are moving freely now, is that clean enough ?

thanks !!

[Howard Acheson]

I have always used what saw gurus and Delta has been recommended for years--Paste wax applied with an old toothbrush. The solvents in Johnson Wax will clean out any gunk and apply a new wax film on the teeth. Crank the raising/lowering wheel as you brush in the wax. Wipe up any exess. Wax is a excellent low speed lubricant and does not attract or hold sawdust.

LIghtly oil the other moving parts using a 30 weight 3&1 oil wiping up all the excess.

[Shawn Pixley]

I have the SS contractor's saw and have experienced the issue. I get under the saw every 2 months or so and clean the gears with a small brush. I use the dry silicon lube (sparingly). I am going to improve the Dust collection on the saw. That should reduce the need to manually clean it as often.

[Erik Loza]

I use white lithium grease on trunion ways. Just a thin film and wipe off as much excess as possible. Yes, in a perfect world, you would not want any grease where sawdust can accumulate but in high-friction applications like fitted ways, dry film lube just doesn't stay on the metal. At least not for me. No matter how you slice it, standard cabinet saws are going to need routine maintenance like cleaning those trunions. It's the nature of their dust collection.

best,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Lee Schierer]

I used to use a dry teflon spray and that seems to work well without catching dust, but I'm out of it now and haven't been able to find any so I'm switching to paste wax. They make some bicycle chain lubes that are dry teflon that might work as well.

[John TenEyck]

What Howard said.

My 1954 Unisaw doesn't really require much lubrication, I think it's been 5 years since I last did it, but it moves silky smooth. Sawstop's design must be sensitive to dust.

John

[Doug Ladendorf]

I use a dry moly with graphite spray lube that works perfectly on gears and other metal to metal ways exposed to sawdust. I think I first heard about it in an article from FWW mag. Easy to spray on and does a great job.

[David Winer]

Plus 100 on moly. Google Dri Slide (or Drislide, or Dri-Slide) for where to purchase. I have found molybdenum disulfide lubricant works miracles on very tough lubrication problems in the shop and practically everywhere else. It has a highly volatile carrier that seeps into tight metal-to-metal places, then evaporates to leave behind a dry film. This film is SLICK and long lasting under pressure.

Places I recommend it for especially are ways and bearings, but it also works amazingly to free stuck parts.

[jim gossage]

Plus 100 on moly. Google Dri Slide (or Drislide, or Dri-Slide) for where to purchase. I have found molybdenum disulfide lubricant works miracles on very tough lubrication problems in the shop and practically everywhere else.

David, I found two brands with the name Dri-Slide, a liquid squeeze bottle by Bike-Aid for bikes, and a spray bottle by GM. Is it the latter? Both are moly based.

[Larry Edgerton]

I found that paste wax is not what I want. Dust builds up in the wax and makes it worse later in my opinion. I use plain old oil. Easy to apply, causes no buildup, and lasts longer than wax. I do not have a buildup problem and I use my saws more than most.

Larry

[jeff vanek]

This is what I use, it goes on wet, but dries fast.
Liquid Wrench L512 Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant with CERFLON
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CP...&robot_redir=1

[Doug Ladendorf]

Dri-Slide is what I use too. It's the GM spray:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QI...&pi=SX200_QL40

[Jamie Lynch]

I use Blaster Graphite Dry Lubricant. You can get it at any HD.

[ken masoumi]

I use Blaster Graphite Dry Lubricant. You can get it at any HD.

I was going to say Blaster Graphite but you beat me to it,I use it on my jointer ,table saw lunchbox planer ,and even on Ts miter tracks,it drys quickly and doesn't attract dust,but you have to apply it often,that's the only drawback.

[Curt Harms]

I used to use a dry teflon spray and that seems to work well without catching dust, but I'm out of it now and haven't been able to find any so I'm switching to paste wax. They make some bicycle chain lubes that are dry teflon that might work as well.

Lee, I think Lowes might carry what you want. Is this it?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_213197-39963...ube&facetInfo=

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