Japanese Veneer Saw

[Bryan Cramer]

Is their any advantage to use a Japaneses veneer saw over a western one? Does anyone use one? I am in the market for a good veneer saw and there isn't much information in the web about these types of saws. I don't want to spend the $100 on a Garmacy saw so the Japanses saws fit the budget well at around $30. I understand the teeth are impulse hardened so it cant be resharpened.

Here is some of the saws I found: saw1 saw 2 saw 3 They seem to be hard to find.

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks
Bryan

[george wilson]

The teeth might be better on the Japanese saws. I have seen German veneer saws with teeth that would have to be completely re worked.

[David Weaver]

that'd be it - I haven't yet seen a decent quality japanese saw that needed to be worked over to function well. I have an azebiki that cost about that much, and I made the commitment to just use it and not fiddle with it. It's worked fine.

Impulse hardened teeth aren't a bad thing on an inexpensive saw as long as you're willing to be careful enough to not rip the teeth off the saw (i.e., you can't just wail away with it, but you shouldn't need to do that, anyway).

[Ryan Scott]

My life is nothing but sanding and veneer work, and my few veneer saws just sit unused. All I ever use to cut and trim veneer is a fresh razor blade and straight edge. I don't get the whole veneer saw thing, razor cuts cleaner and more controllable, veneer saws for me just make a mess of things.

[Mike Henderson]

I use a regular Western veneer saw. You have to sharpen them before use - they do not come sharp from the store. I also use a knife for certain cuts.

The regular Western veneer saw is pretty inexpensive - less than $15, I believe (haven't bought one in a long time).

Mike

[Jim Matthews]

$17?

I'll send you coffee money if you provide a review.

I'm with Ryan, I score with a Japanese cutting guage and shoot veneer with a plane to square things up.

At $17, that thing could see second life as a paint stirrer...