Starter hand planes?

[Eric D Matson]

Hey guys. I am looking to add a small starter collection of hand planes to my arsenal of power tools. I am more looking to something to smooth and flat my work benches and the such. What planes do you guys recommend to something like this? Thanks.

[Sean Hughto]

Sounds like you need a Seven:

7.jpg

[David Weaver]

ditto that, a jointer of some type. 7 is as ideal of a design as any.

[steven c newman]

Starter planes???IMAG0011.jpgMaybe get a nice jointer plane? Mine is a Stanley #31. Maybe a decent Vintage Jack plane? I have four.... maybe a GOOD block plane, low angle AND regular. Maybe a good vintage #3 or #4 smooth plane?

[Jim Foster]

First rule of planes is you will need the equipment to grind and hone the blades. For planes, I would suggest four; #7, a #3 or #4, a #5 or #6 and a low angle block plane. The #5 or #6, I would figure out how to camber the blade sooner rather than later because it can save you hours getting a benchtop flat enough for the #7 to finish it off.

[Eric D Matson]

I do have a couple ceramic shapton whetstones. I do not really know what I did without them. I am figuring it out pretty quick hence the move to some planes. I will keep my eyes open for some of those planes. Thank you.

[David M Anderson]

First rule of planes is you will need the equipment to grind and hone the blades. For planes, I would suggest four; #7, a #3 or #4, a #5 or #6 and a low angle block plane. The #5 or #6, I would figure out how to camber the blade sooner rather than later because it can save you hours getting a benchtop flat enough for the #7 to finish it off.

Have to agree with Jim, you can get an expensive plane, but if you lack the skills or means to sharpen, it's worthless.
Would suggest getting an older but good plane to start off with, learn how to sharpen it and in the process, use it.

Hard to explain the feeling when you get your plane singing to you, when your using it.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Similar to what was said, get a 7, 5, and a 3 or 4. To expound on brands, either go for a Stanley/Bailey original, or Wood River makes great new planes at reasonable prices. I believe their numbering system is different, but you want a jointer, a jack, and a smoother.

If you want to spend the money, go to Lee Valley and get their low angle jointer, jack, and smoother. Order each with a different blade angle and you can swap blades around for various grain situations- low angle for end grain, high angle for tricky grain and so forth. The toothed blade makes quick work of tricky grain as well. This may be a high priced option if you are just looking for something to use now and then.

Just my thoughts. You could write a book (many have) on the topic.

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Eric,

Your location isn't listed in your profile. If you live near Portland, Oregon send me a PM if you would like to try a few on for size.

If you are outside the Pacific Northwest, you may still live near someone willing to let you test drive a few planes.

The selection that fits for many folks is the "smoother, Jack, Jointer" combination of #4, #5 & #7 set up plus a low angle block plane. There are other sizes to combine to get to the same end. This is usually based on personal preferences and hand sizes.

Depending on what you want to do and your size, strength and preferences you may only really need one plane. For me a #6 gets used a lot. It is a great mid–size plane for work big and small.

My work varies quite a bit. One day my lumber is S4S from the borg, the next it is rough from a local saw mill, back yard trees or rough cut firewood.

The #4 & #5 planes are the most common to be found at yard sales and such. If they are in average condition they are usually in the $5 to $30 range.

Those two would likely serve you for following up after power tools. The larger and longer jointer plane (#7) may make it a little easier to flatten a bench top, but unless you plan to work with a lot of rough cut or resawn wood it might not be a good investment.

It really comes down to preference, need and how much you want to spend.

jtk

[Eric D Matson]

Thank you for the information. I will keep my eye out for those planes.

Jim - I don't live near there but I bet it wouldn't be hard to talk the wife into taking a trip. We reside in the Kansas City metro area.

[Ed Falk]

Have to agree with Jim, you can get an expensive plane, but if you lack the skills or means to sharpen, it's worthless.
Would suggest getting an older but good plane to start off with, learn how to sharpen it and in the process, use it.

Hard to explain the feeling when you get your plane singing to you, when your using it.

Seconded. You'll wind up spending more on a set of good waterstones and a blade holder than on the planes themselves, but it will be worth it.

Money permitting, consider getting Hock blades to replace the blades the plane comes with.

Might also be worth taking the time to true the base of the plane. I've never done that myself though; I don't have a feel for how labor-intensive it is.

[Winton Applegate]

I can flick the throat open and scrub or close it a bit and finish plane. A couple of specifically ground blades to choose from and that is all I need. I have a lot of other planes from a good cross section of styles and makers but I don't need them. I do need the following :

One of these if you get a good deal or it is easier to come by where you are. It is a great great plane with a flaw or two.
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/low-angle...le-jack-plane/

or

Either one of these even if you have to kill to get it or sell your first born.
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...=1,41182,52515

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...=1,41182,52515

I have the latter one but the narrower would be just fine and takes less horse power to push in a deep cutting situation such as flattening really hard stuff.
I like it well enough I would sleep with it if Queenmasteroftheuniverseandbabybunnytrainer would let me.

It is just the right plane for me.
The wide Lee Valley Varitas Bevel Up kicking booty Oh Yah !

For a block I am about as excited about this plane with the optional handles for smaller work as a smoother. Take them off for one handed block plane work.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=47881&cat=1,41182,48942

I swear I could make a rocket ship with it it is so versatile. I could make a work bench with it start to finish including scrub planing but I would eventually tear the handles off it and have to replace them but it would do it even in super hard stuff.

The Little block plane set so fine it is just planing the flaws out of the finish.
Change blades and open the throat and it can be scrubbing that quick.


For this kind of heavy duty work, taking rough boards glued up down to one surface the LN is a very robust plane and with some care and attention can finish plane and do most any bench plane work.

[steven c newman]

Hope this postsIMAG0008.jpgRough sawn Black Walnut, meet the #33 Scrub plane. ( H-F @ $10) Black Walnut, meet the cambered jackIMAG0009.jpgOhio Tool co. #05c (@ $17) Black Walnut, meet a DE6cIMAG0010.jpg came in the doorstep in pieces, rebuilt, has a "Shark" on the iron. Smoother?IMAG0011.jpg Walnut is glass smooth. That is a Wood river #4 V3, about $100 or so. Most of my handplanes are under $20. Throw in a couple blocks, and one can do about anything. Of course, some things need a little different planeIMAG0012.jpg A #78 for rebates? IMAG0010.jpg for smaller stuff, a #3 sized smoother, this one was $13, and is a Wards ( Stanley) from the WWII era. SDC15849.jpgFor some things, a bit longer #3 sized plane works nice, this one is a Four square 5-1/4 sized Jack plane ($9.00) and is sitting by a small block plane ( very small!)my $1 Stanley SW #103. Can fit right into a shop apron's pocket. Just a few of the stable in the shop...

[Jim Koepke]

Might also be worth taking the time to true the base of the plane. I've never done that myself though; I don't have a feel for how labor-intensive it is.

It is very labor intensive and is easy to get wrong. Unless the plane isn't working and the not working can be directly linked to something wrong with the sole of the plane my advice is to avoid messing with the sole.

jtk