Finishing a Rosewood bench plane tote

[Dave Kirby]

Hello, I got a new, unfinished tote for an old #4 Stanley style bench plane to replace the original one that finally split and I wanted to put a good finish on it before I install it. Can anyone offer some advice/method/technique on the best way to finish the tote? I've read about using BLO followed by clear shellac or lacquer and 4/0 steel wool then paste wax, as one way. Another way I recently read about was Watco natural Danish oil, followed by a couple coats of Tung oil. I have not used any of these products so I'd really love some good advice and opinions. I definitely want a nice durable finish, as I will be using the tool regularly, hopefully for many years to come, and would love to preserve some of the natural beauty of the wood too, if possible.

[Steve Schoene]

I recommend shellac as the finish. Oils, and oil/varnish mixes may have difficulties curing properly since rosewood is an "oily" hardwood. Lacquer would also work, though I like the feel underhand of shellac. Shellac also does not yellow over time.

[Dave Kirby]

I recommend shellac as the finish. Oils, and oil/varnish mixes may have difficulties curing properly since rosewood is an "oily" hardwood. Lacquer would also work, though I like the feel underhand of shellac. Shellac also does not yellow over time.

So just Shellac and nothing else? How many coats?

[Steve Schoene]

You don't want to build a thick film with shellac. Shellac applications all fuse together forming one coat in the end so how many applications depends on how thinly you apply it, and what "cut" you use.

[Dave Kirby]

You don't want to build a thick film with shellac. Shellac applications all fuse together forming one coat in the end so how many applications depends on how thinly you apply it, and what "cut" you use.

What pound cut of shellac would you recommend? I've heard 2 pound is a good place to start.

[Steve Schoene]

Two pound cut is good. It's not necessary to be precise in the pound cut. Seal Coat which is light colored comes a 2 lb. cut and Amber is usually found at 3 lb. cut. I'd avoid the clear, which is less durable than the others. Clear has been bleached with chlorine in a process that reduces durability. Of course the best would be to mix your own fresh from flakes.

[Dave Kirby]

Two pound cut is good. It's not necessary to be precise in the pound cut. Seal Coat which is light colored comes a 2 lb. cut and Amber is usually found at 3 lb. cut. I'd avoid the clear, which is less durable than the others. Clear has been bleached with chlorine in a process that reduces durability. Of course the best would be to mix your own fresh from flakes.

Actually, I've kinda wanted to try mixing fresh from flakes but not sure where to get the flakes?

[Tom M King]

I use the modified tung oil, gunstock finish Truoil on plane totes and knobs, and have been very satisfied with the results. You can buy it any place that sells guns, like even Walmart.

[Steve Schoene]

TruOil includes linseed oil, and an ingredient called "modified oil". This may be polymerized linseed or may even be some form of varnish. But, you should be aware that Birchwood Casey, the maker of TruOil does warn that it may not cure properly on oily hardwoods. A number of rosewood varieties are certainly oily hardwoods.

[Dave Kirby]

Update: I started to become concerned about using any oil finish on the Rosewood since it is such an oily wood to begin with. I had some finishing paste wax handy so I decided to go for broke and give that a try and call it a day. I sanded the Tote to 320 grit and then polished it with about 4 coats of the paste wax. It looks and, most importantly, feels absolutely fantastic!! I can always add more wax from time to time as needed. Ultimately a simple solution that turned out to work flawlessly! I must say I am very pleased and would highly recommend it!