Cutting Board question

[Hal Peeler]

For you guys that make cutting boards, what, if anything do you put on the wood as a finish? Thanks

[Dennis McDonaugh]

They sell cutting board oil at Woodcrafters that is food safe. I renew it occasionally too.

[Steve Milito]

Pure tung oil when I finish them and then mineral oil after they are in the kitchen.

[David Hawxhurst]

mineral oil.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I believe that most cutting board oils are Mineral Oil. But you certainly need to make sure that it is just mineral oil if it will be placed on a cutting board and it is not purchased for the task (I don't really know if anyone adds perfume to mineral oil for other purposes, but figured I would mention it).

I have used things like walnut oil, but, if someone is allergenic to nuts.

I think that many people here on the creek make their own special blend of beeswax and mineral oil. For example:

Melt four ounces of beeswax and then mix with 16 ounces of mineral oil.

Use a double broiler rather than putting it directly on the heat since this stuff is flammable I think. Some people just put it in a mason jar in boiling water to do the melting... probably much safer.

Mix them and heat them until smooth. Let cool. Apply, let sit over night, wipe clean in the morning.

[Howard Acheson]

An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.

Never put a wood board in the dishwasher and don't soak it in dishwater for long periods.

[Mark Patoka]

Technically you don't have to use any finish but basic mineral oil is all you need to help bring out the grain, just like any other wood finish. Mineral oil only will wear off over time/repeated washing & wiping. Many folks will use the oil/wax blend as mentioned above.

I typically use MO only but did pick up a bottle of cutting board finish at Woodcraft for some boards I recently made (didn't want to take time to mix my own and only use very little). I did saturate the boards with MO only and put the wax blend as the final coat. I haven't time tested them yet to see if that finish will last a little longer but either way, they are very easy to reapply periodically.

Don't use a film finish like Salad Bowl Finish as it will flake off as you start cutting on the board. Use nothing, oil or oil/wax only.

[Matt Day]

Mineral oil from the grocery/drug store, unless you really want to part with more money and get the stuff branded specifically for cutting boards.

[Mark Bolton]

+1 For Howards method. We simply put several bottles of mineral oil in the pan (look in the pharmacy for intestinal lubricant and be prepared for a look when you cash out with a half a dozen bottles) and a chunk of bees wax (we dont shave it). Let it melt, cool, and then you have a creamy result a bit firmer than vaseline. Put on as many coats as you wish. We dont use a double boiler, just a 1lb coffee can on low heat.

The bees wax does leave a much nicer finish than straight oil. You can pick up a brick of bees wax at a craft store if you dont have any other source.

[Jerry Olexa]

mineral oil 1/month...

[John Prexta]

mineral oil found in the laxative section of the drug store.