Second coat of Primer needed? Door Hinge pin question.

[Don Morris]

I'm getting around to painting the renovated second floor after several years. There are several areas that have setting compound where walls/closets were changed. I always have put a second coat of Primer on those areas, but have wondered if that was really necessary. Opinions please?

One of the handles of a door I put in for a guest bathroom hits the wall quickly after opening. A bump out for a closet only allows the door to open 90 degrees and it surprises people the door only opens that much. Thus they have a tendency to put a lot of force on the handle when it hits the wall. I'm familiar with all the systems LOML will allow to prevent the door from hitting the wall, so I went to put in a "hinge pin stop". Most other types require some sort of hole being drilled and she doesn't like that...get the drift? However, I got to the point where I would have seriously marred or destroyed the finish of the hinge. Plus, there was no hole at the bottom to run a rod up and push the pin up. What's up? How do I get to the pin on these type of hinges to place a Hinge pin stop on it? Thanks for your help. I never thought just getting to a hinge pin would be so difficult. The two photos are of the Hinge pin stop and the hinge I tried to put it on.


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[Brian Elfert]

Those hinge pin stops can easily punch a hole in a hollow core door if someone pushes too hard a few times. Can you install a spring type door stop into the molding instead of the door, or does the wife not like that either? Sorry, I can't help on getting the hinge pin out.

[Joe Kieve]

Can't see the bottom of that hinge but I've seen some commercial door butts that have a plug in the bottom. Looks just like the top. Take an old screwdriver or something that will allow you to tap at an angle to get the plug out. Then you should be able to use an 8 penny nail and tap out the hinge pin. If it doesn't have a plug, you should be able to tap the pin up using the same old screw driver or whatever. Tap at an angle until you get it to move, then it should come on out.

Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

[Jason Roehl]

As for the hinge pin--use a sharp scraper under the head of the pin (like a 5-in-1 painter's tool) and tap the end of the handle with a hammer. As the pin begins to lift, hold the scraper at a steeper angle (closer to parallel to the pin) to tap it up and out of the hinge.

One coat of primer is sufficient. However, if there are many coats of paint in adjacent areas, an additional coat of primer may help add some roller stipple so that the patched areas don't appear too smooth in glancing light.

[Rich Engelhardt]

However, I got to the point where I would have seriously marred or destroyed the finish of the hinge. Plus, there was no hole at the bottom to run a rod up and push the pin up. What's up? How do I get to the pin on these type of hinges to place a Hinge pin stop on it? Thanks for your help. I never thought just getting to a hinge pin would be so difficult

Hinges are cheap in the grand scheme of things. When I run into those types of hinges, I use vice grips to hold them @ the top and pound up on the vice grips.
I only go so far with that method though. If the pin has been in long enough to be all crudded up and stuck, I just replace the hinge with a more conventional one.

[Brian Tymchak]

I have a few doors that only open 90* as well. I took the baseboard brass stops out and put these on the wall where the handle would hit. They are paint to match. Of course if you have wall paper, or a 2nd door (like a closet) behind the first, then this is not going to be any solution for you.

2nd coat of primer? For interiors I think that is unnecessary. The 2nd coat of paint is more important.

[Don Morris]

Thanks for the input people. I tried to put a box cutter blade in that hinge at an angle and tapped on the back of the box cutter to push the blade into the small crevice to open it enough to get a thin screw driver in there. Wouldn't seem to go, that's when I stopped. Will resume that effort with the tools and techniques suggested.

[Don Morris]

Ahhhaaaa, surprise, I tried to use all the techniques mentioned to no avail. Gave up. Then when I was painting around one of the hinges lo and behold, I noticed the bottom of the hinge was down from flush by 1/4". How Cow Uncle Bob, how did that happen? I tried to pull it down all the way, but after a little tugging it turned. Yes it turned! The caps are threaded. No wonder they wouldn't budge without turning them. The photo was hard to get of this small object but you should be able to see the threads.

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