Glue block question

[charlie knighton]

only use hot glue if you are going to use at least 2 screws 1/4 inch into blank, i use this method with multi-axis turnings on large piece of mdf where i hot glue just around the edges of blank and to the mdf, but always use 2 screws with hot glue

[John Keeton]

What are folk's opinion on hot glue in this application?

Others may differ, and I respect their opinion, but I would not use hot glue for anything other than to secure a very small and lightweight piece for some detailing. I would not use hot glue for a waste block to fully turn a piece.

[Peter Blair]

I use all the above, including hot glue and have never had a failure. Hot glue does let me 'get to it' a lot faster than Titebond.

[Scott Hackler]

Ask Malcolm Tibbets on how long he waits from gluing a ring on to putting a tool to the wood! It is surprisingly NOT very long. Titebond bonds a lot quicker than most folks know.

Having said that, and knowing the forces on a piece of wood while hollowing, I still clamp and let sit overnight or longer a wood to wood glue block, with Titebond II.

NEVER EVER would I ever use CA glue for a glue block. The shear strength is terrible for CA glue and while you might get away with it for a while, but someday your gonna be dodging a chunk of wood. I wouldn't use hot glue either, just because I don't trust it's bonding ability for turning.

[Tim Leiter]

+1 to what John and Scott said. I wouldn't trust the CA or the Hot Melt Glue either. I don't believe they were designed for that application and you would be taking a big chance on getting hurt and ruining your blank. JMHO........................Tim.

[Jon Finch]

Thanks for the hot glue advice! I was wondering if I just didn't use it properly based on my last experience using it. The piece didn't fly off, but I was able to release it from the glue block when there was, at least to my eyes, still plenty of glue area.

[Dennis Ford]

Mr Baccus uses CA glue on glue-blocks all the time, it can work. I have used hot glue on occasion BUT only when there was a large glue surface area (such as a platter). The trick to hot glue is temperature, the bond must be made while the glue is hot (it cools very quickly when applied to a cool surface). I have trouble recommending either CA or hot glue for beginners but will continue to select from; Titebond, CA, Gorilla glue, hot glue & double sided tape. The choice is a judgement call based on wood type, moisture content, size / shape of blank & time available.

[Ron Page]

I only see one post referring to using glue blocks for end-grain turning. Is this done with any regularity? End grain joints are the weakest joint I know of and I'd be concerned about flying wood. That said, I remember some articles about Gorilla glue that said it worked good on end grain because it expanded into the end fibers.

Way back in the 70's, when I was teaching high school woodworking, we regularly added paper between the glue block and bowl - but I didn't let the kids do this with end-grain. Usually the glue was yellow carpenters glue and the paper was a textbook cover (basically craft paper). Worked great.

Guess this is my first post. Been lurking and absorbing as much of the knowledge here as possible as I try to expand my time with the wood lathe. This forum has become one of my nightly cruises.

[James Combs]

I only see one post referring to using glue blocks for end-grain turning. Is this done with any regularity? End grain joints are the weakest joint I know of and I'd be concerned about flying wood. That said, I remember some articles about Gorilla glue that said it worked good on end grain because it expanded into the end fibers.

Way back in the 70's, when I was teaching high school woodworking, we regularly added paper between the glue block and bowl - but I didn't let the kids do this with end-grain. Usually the glue was yellow carpenters glue and the paper was a textbook cover (basically craft paper). Worked great.

Guess this is my first post. Been lurking and absorbing as much of the knowledge here as possible as I try to expand my time with the wood lathe. This forum has become one of my nightly cruises.

Welcome to the creek Ron. How about starting a thread and telling us about yourself.

[James Combs]

I understand the OP's question but don't see anyone mentioning not using a glue block at all. I tried a couple glue blocks back when I started turning in 2009 but didn't really care for it especially after I found that turning a short(1/8"-1/4") tenon on my blank between centers then using a chuck was so much faster. A tenon is all I use now and have never looked back. I believe there are some that use the inverse(aka recess) and I can see where it would be similar speedy but I don't trust expanding in a recess. For end-grain turning there is nothing better(safer) IMHO then a tenon clamped in a chuck. Yes you loose a little of your blank, the 1/8" to 1/4", but to me it is insignificant. As to trimming off the tenon(or the recess) I will do it as mentioned by several posts above if the wood has voids or holes, but as long as I have wood without voids I will reverse chuck my project with a vacuum chuck.

[robert baccus]

Glues like any line of products have their funny characteristics that must be addressed. Wood glues are great but have very limited strength on endgrain hold. Non on wet wood and require clamping for good strength. Ca is often criticized for strength but I assure you it is very strong--it doesn't like a shock load. I often knock off small glueblocks with a hammer/putty knife but only to about 2" dia. I've tried larger ones with big tools and forget that. I have turned 50+ long vases of 100-130# with a 3.5" glueblock and thick CA. This with fresh cut wet soft woods such as SG and willow. I've knocked vases in half and busted bowls but never with did the CA fail.. I think the failures with CA come from too little glue, untrue glue surfaces or old glue. Try a 1 minute test is your glue is in question. Also forget poplar and scrap wood for GB. For heavy pieces I use dogwood. beech or. elm in 2" thicknesses. With good hard GB's I use a small faceplate or the standard 5/8" nova single screw. It is very difficult to hold the base of wet weak woods with any other method--takes a lot of screws to hold wet endgrain and I lost several of these years ago. PS gorilla glue was the lowest rated glue in a fine woodworking test of 6 popular glues. Hot glues are fine for small pieces but the process is easy to screw up.. Ca is strong enough for tool inserts and industrial applications. Ca does seem to fail at 20 years of age so I would avoid segmented pieces for sure. On the plus side it requires no clamping pressure and is gap filling. It shares this with epoxy glue.

[robert baccus]

The problem with wood glues is that it holds crappy on end grain and non on wet woods. I usually turn local green pieces which may take years to dry. Do a quick test with 2 cylinders glued both ways. Fresh data beats opinion every time.

[robert baccus]

I have done a thousand with CA but then I don't sniff mine either. Gives me a hangover everytime.

[Dave Cullen]

My original question stemmed from not wanting to lose the wood thickness of a proper tenon, and not having the means to reverse the bowl to remove a tenon or permanent glue block. The paper interface is shown in all the turning books, and I'm suprised so few have used them. I think on end grain I'd opt for a different solution but for a small side grain bowl I'm willing to give it a whirl.

[Peter Blair]

Hey Dave.
When I started tuning, lots of years ago I used paper and a glue block but I soon found that it was really difficult to finish the bottom unless of course you can reverse chuck it as has been suggested above. What I was doing in those days to save a lot of time and trouble was I would split the glue block off then glue on a piece of felt to the bottom . . . this is a practice that I no longer think is suitable for most of the things I make.
What ever you decide to do, good luck.