Question for HAMMER A3 owners (Size non-specific)

[Frank Trinkle]

I have a new A3-41 and am very pleased. I notice that Felder sells a few different topical solutions for protection and cast iron care, but there is very little info, and I have no idea whether they are useful or for what exact purpose they are intended. They are NOT cheap, so wondering what current owners are using of their products, if any.

This "Super Gleit" (def: Super Glide) product is one that I have questions about. The other is the protectorant. I am usually a Johnson Paste Wax guy on my cast iron tools (TS, BS's, DP), but the surface of the table on the A3 is not the smooth, polished cast iron I have on my other machines. I am hesitant to use past wax, because the wax will settle into the serrations, and I'm not sure that's a good idea.

What do you guys use, and how have you mitigated the rougher surface vs other polished cast iron?

Thanks in advance for your recommendations.

Cheers,

Frank
A3 Table Top Swirls.jpg

[David Hawxhurst]

i use crc 3-36 for protection on mine, also use it on my smooth metal surface. i tried using paste wax but found it didn't work well for me. so far the 3-36 has been the best product for me. it adds some lube that hasn't affect the finishes i use and at the end of the day adds protection. i have tried some other things like paste wax, bosheild, etc but they were just not as effective for me as the crc 3-36. did yours come with a sheet of zero rust over the tables? if you still have it, it works really well to. at the end of the day wipe down the table with your product of choice and place the zero rust sheet over the tables.

[Frank Trinkle]

i use crc 3-36 for protection on mine, also use it on my smooth metal surface. i tried using paste wax but found it didn't work well for me. so far the 3-36 has been the best product for me. it adds some lube that hasn't affect the finishes i use and at the end of the day adds protection. i have tried some other things like paste wax, bosheild, etc but they were just not as effective for me as the crc 3-36. did yours come with a sheet of zero rust over the tables? if you still have it, it works really well to. at the end of the day wipe down the table with your product of choice and place the zero rust sheet over the tables.

Dang! I threw that zero rust cover away.

Forgive my ignorance, but what IS CRC 3-36. Never heard of it before. Can you clarify?

It's really critical that I protect the tops. I am gone for as long as 2-months at a time, and my shop is in Florida, where humidity is a big factor.

Cheers,

Frank

[Erik Loza]

Frank, I buff out the cast iron tops on our machines with a Scotchbrite pad under a palm sander and some cutting fluid of your choice. Then, strip the table with mineral spirits and it will be ready for paste wax. That kills the grain and leaves a good surface. Or, just use the machine for a while and wood will do the same thing. The cheapie Johnson wax is fine, no need to buy fancy coatings. Hope this helps,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[David Wong]

I just use wax (either Waxit or Johnson's) on ny A3-31. Seems to work fine and I have not experienced any buildup.

I bought my A3-31 used from someone that had left it outside in the shipping box for a couple of years. I can tell you that those zero rust sheets stop working after a while.

[Joe Samorodin]

I use Bostick GlideCoat as it does last longer in use then paste wax but I don't know about how effective it would be over a long period of time as protective coat. With the surface of a31 being milled the way it is I don't use it as often as I would on other equipment.

[Ryan Mooney]

The super gleit stuff seems mostly useful in a high volume production environment when the price of a fast lube is less than the cost of downtime. I bought a bottle just to try it out of curiosity but probably won't get another. I can't say how well it protects but it is a fast easy way to relube the tables of you're running a lot of timber through the machine. The a3 seems to like pretty slick tables on the planer so having some thing to line them is nice. In practice canning wax rubbed on seems to work just about as well as anything else, goes on pretty fast, and is darn cheap (especially since it seems I can always get bricks of it at estate sales for a few cents a box..).

Can't really speak towards the rusty prevention because I'm in a relatively dry area so not to bad of a problem.

[David Hawxhurst]

http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/tchdta/100.pdf
CRC 3-36® is a versatile, petroleum-based lubricant, penetrant and corrosion inhibitor. It’s unique viscosity allows it
to cover more surface area and penetrate deep into the surface of all metals including steel, copper, brass and
aluminum. 3-36® displaces moisture and leaves a thin, long-lasting film to protect against corrosion and wear.

yes you should protect the tops and planar table. they are subject to rust like any other bare metal.
since you don't have the zero rust paper its not that big a deal. I use craft paper to reduce the risk of rust. while i'm not in florida i have high humidity and use the 3-36 as a rust preventative. i have gone at least two months with no rust but i am around to look at it at least weekly.

[Jim Neeley]

It's really critical that I protect the tops. I am gone for as long as 2-months at a time, and my shop is in Florida, where humidity is a big factor.

Frank,

For general-use applications I'd go with the suggestions above BUT for an uper-humid area and months of protection I recommend Boeshield T9. The Boe comes from its initial user, Boeing. They used it to protect airplane parts from rusting.

In essence it is a paste wax dissolved in a carrier solvent. For long term storage you can spray it om like paint as thick as you wish and leave it that way. To use it, another spray with T9 and the solvent dissolves the wax for wipe-off.

Along the way the wax contains anti-rusting agents and provides protection even after wiped off. I use it on all of my CI tools but only coat-and-leave on my scroll saw, which gets used perhaps annually. AFTER 5 YEARS THERES NOT A SPOT OF RUST.

jUST MY $0.02.. YMMV..

Jim

[David Hawxhurst]

i have used bosheild and the crc has lasted longer. while boeing did develope it for aircraft which are mainly alumumin and other lighter weight metal and materials it works great. but for steel and cast iron i have found it to be a poor choice for long term protection.

the humindy around my house regularly is 80% or better.

you should do so testing with diffrent products to find which works best for you. my testing tells me that crc works best for me in my conditions.

[Frank Trinkle]

Thanks Guys!

I have two cans of each 3-26 and T-9 coming on Wednesday, and will test both to figure out what works best for me.

One more question. Is it possible/advisable to use these products in conjunction with paste wax...either underneath or over? Trying very hard not to screw up a $7000 machine!

[David Hawxhurst]

when using either of the two products i would for go the paste wax.

so with the two tables you could do one side with product a and the other table with product b.

[Rich Riddle]

I agree with Erik on this one and see no need to purchase expensive ointments. I had the Hammer A3 and used that method. Then a MiniMax showed up for sale and went that direction using the same method.

[Frank Trinkle]

Good points, but I'm a little confused. David, you said you would use paste wax with either of the two products. Would you overspray the paste wax after applying, or use the 3-36/T-9 first and THEN wax over the top?

Sorry if I'm taking this to the limits on questions....but my brain already hurts, and you guys are the aspirin!

[David Hawxhurst]

i do not use paste wax. i just apply the product. with the 3-36 i spray it on and wipe it so there is a even coat.