[OP]
Member
Hi, I have a Record 050 combination plane. I was looking at the Lee Valley book last night for sharpening supplies for the profiled blades. I seen that they offer slip stones and also wooden profile ones from 1/8" - 3/4" that you stick PSA sandpaper to. They also have a runner in the bottom so I could dado them to a board. What I'm looking for is if anyone has used either one and any pros or cons. I appreciate any advice. Thanks, Bill
Contributor
Currently most of my profiled blades are sharpened with a few slipstones or oil stones depending on the profile.
I have used dowels with sandpaper for sharpening beading blades.
For some blades I have used the blade to make a profile and then used the profile to sharpen the blade. This can take a few steps to get the final profile right.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
[OP]
Member
Hi Jim, thanks for the reply. I am leaning towards the slipstones as it would be a lot less fuss. I actually found a guy near me that has a 1000 and 4000 slipstone for $30 which I didn't think was to bad. I take it that like a normal plane blade the back is more important and the front should take minimal work. Thanks, Bill
Contributor
The back should be flat just like any other plane blade. Some of the older blades might have pits. If they aren't too bad I just live with them.Originally Posted by Bill Frarey
Doing a quick search, that is what Lee Valley charges for a new pair.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...072,43071&ap=1
Didn't know there is now an 8000 slip stone available. Might have to put one of those in the to buy list.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
[OP]
Member
I must have missed the 8000 as well. I will read the Lee Valley book again tonight. It would be nice though to also add the 8000.
Guest
Avoid those waterstone slips. They will be worthless (i have some of them).
If you want to use slips, you want oilstone slips. Even the india slip stones will go out of shape if you have to do more than a tiny bit. The waterstone slips don't have a chance of maintaining their shape at all.
Where I can use a slip, I always have. Getting to the point the slips can be used is either done with a conical aluminum oxide or silicon carbide stone in a drill press or lathe chuck or with sandpaper on a dowel. I prefer the conical bit because there is less chance of rounding corners, etc, with it. I go cheap on those conicals - whatever HF has.
[OP]
Member
Hi David, I just noticed in the book that they are water slipstones. The guy that lives by me selling the 1000 and 4000 says they are Arkansas stones. Sounds like they would be a lot more durable.
Guest
If they are arkansas stones, and one is described as 4000, hopefully that would line up with a translucent arkansas slip. Peculiar numbering to call an arkansas stone those (i know for sure that there are waterstones in grits similar to that, because I have a tan 4000 grit one, and the red waterstone may be 800 or 1000 or something).
If one of them is a trans arkansas, though (skim milk look if it's oiled, a little more white if it's unused) and says "arkansas" on it and norton, that's worth the 30 bucks if you need it.
Member
natural stones generally don't lend themselves to grit numbers.
Contributor
Funny that the reason David hates the water stone slips is one of the reasons I like them. They kind of customize to the shape you are working. I tend to work the inside curves at an angle to keep the slip's edge round.
I also have some oil slips and would be buying more if they come my way.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
What about buying this sharpening set from Lee Valley.
All you need to do is add sandpaper.
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"If you have all your fingers, you can convert to Metric"
Guest
The only thing I use mine on is incannel gouges and hollows. When they lose their shape, it's sort of troubling on the small gouges. I could live with them if i absolutely had to, the slips should never be doing much work, anyway, but the oilstone slips work great with all of that stuff of mine because it's all plain steel.
[OP]
Member
Well I looked at the 2 stone set by me and the 1000 is a water stone but the other is a Norton. He just listed it as 4000 because he wasn't sure how to list it. He ended up taking $25 for the pair. No complaint from me. I also ordered the wood profile set 1/4"-3/4" from Lee valley with some different PSA paper. I will let everyone know about this set as soon as I give them a try. I appreciate everyones help and advice. It might sound weird but I really enjoy sharpening when the end result comes out like I want. Bill
Member
I've been meaning to pick up some slip stones forever now - in the meantime, I've got some incannel gouges that need a little bit of touch up. I've got plenty of auto-body paper, and "Micro-mesh" brand papers up to 12,000 grit. (They list their 8,000 grit as 3 Micron, but not what the 12,000 is) If you're planning on touching up the honing job with papers, where would a good point be to stop before stropping with the green stuff?
" Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice
Guest
The microfine compound has enough coarser abrasive in it to easily make the step up from 3 micron paper. It would probably make the jump from p2500 auto paper pretty easily, too.
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