About to order dust collection system..

[Steven Wayne]

My wood working room is 16' x 20' room in my upholstery shop. About to order a ClearVue system. Planning on using 6" S&D PVC for ducting. Looks like lifeandhome.com has best prices I can find on the S&D fittings. I'm about to spend a large amount, at least for me, and thought I'd see if anyone has any input or advice.

[Robert Payne]

I didn't look at all of the PVC S&D pipe that lifeandhome.com carries, but try to get D-2729 thin wall sewer and drain pipe (white with bell ends in 10' lengths) instead of SDR35 sewer and drain, which is also available in bell ends (no gasket). The SDR35 is nearly twice as expensive because it has thicker walls; most of the fittings made for either style will fit because they share an identical outside diameter. Avoid any "tees" or short radius 90's -- use Wyes (6 x 6 x 6 or 6 x 4 x 6), straight/slip couplings and 45's wherever possible (us two 45's separated by a short straight section to make a 90 degree turn. Overhead wyes set looking down give a 45 and a simple straight segment with a 45 give you a drop. Place ClearVue Blastgates close to your tool ports before adding flex. Other suppliers you might try are major plumbing distributors in your area or irrigation companies. I have found fittings at Lowe's and other report success at Menards. Hope this helps.

[eugene thomas]

No input on what pvc to use but if wad doing my system again would use use 6" y's. Easier to make changes later. Taking main line apart to change out y is not fun.

[Jeff Erbele]

I didn't look at all of the PVC S&D pipe that lifeandhome.com carries, but try to get D-2729 thin wall sewer and drain pipe (white with bell ends in 10' lengths) instead of SDR35 sewer and drain, which is also available in bell ends (no gasket). The SDR35 is nearly twice as expensive because it has thicker walls; most of the fittings made for either style will fit because they share an identical outside diameter. Avoid any "tees" or short radius 90's -- use Wyes (6 x 6 x 6 or 6 x 4 x 6), straight/slip couplings and 45's wherever possible (us two 45's separated by a short straight section to make a 90 degree turn. Overhead wyes set looking down give a 45 and a simple straight segment with a 45 give you a drop. Place ClearVue Blastgates close to your tool ports before adding flex. Other suppliers you might try are major plumbing distributors in your area or irrigation companies. I have found fittings at Lowe's and other report success at Menards. Hope this helps.

When it comes to DC systems I don't know much but am trying to rectify that as I am planning on buying one sometime next year. I read somewhere recently that it is better to place the blast gates near the main line. I think the reason was it reduces the volume of the system under vacuum, creating greater suction at the gate in use.

Perhaps someone with more knowledge than I, can verify or disprove that. My goal is to learn if it matters and if so which way is better.

[Ole Anderson]

When it comes to DC systems I don't know much but am trying to rectify that as I am planning on buying one sometime next year. I read somewhere recently that it is better to place the blast gates near the main line. I think the reason was it reduces the volume of the system under vacuum, creating greater suction at the gate in use.

Perhaps someone with more knowledge than I, can verify or disprove that. My goal is to learn if it matters and if so which way is better.

Your DC will suck the entire duct system to system suction so fast that it makes no difference where your blast gates are as it relates to system static pressure, UNLESS you have duct leaks past the wyes where you might place blast gates. Personally, I place them where they are most convenient to use. That being said, some of mine aren't very convenient, simply due to the location of the connecting duct. I went with 26 ga snaplock steel ducts so I didn't have to worry about the static factor and so I could go with a 7" main, which is more in keeping with the volumes Steven's CV will be able to suck if he ever plans on having more than one gate open at a time..

[Jeff Erbele]

Your DC will suck the entire duct system to system suction so fast that it makes no difference where your blast gates are as it relates to system static pressure, UNLESS you have duct leaks past the wyes where you might place blast gates. Personally, I place them where they are most convenient to use. That being said, some of mine aren't very convenient, simply due to the location of the connecting duct. I went with 26 ga snaplock steel ducts so I didn't have to worry about the static factor and so I could go with a 7" main, which is more in keeping with the volumes Steven's CV will be able to suck if he ever plans on having more than one gate open at a time..

Thanks. I know I read otherwise but haven't found where yet. Just 'cause I read it doesn't mean its correct

For those using PVC, I read a suggestion on Bill Pentz's website, not to glue the duct, instead fasten the joints with two sheet metal screws and tape the seams. It makes it a lot easier to make changes later if one wants to.
Looking at his sample ceiling mounted duct layouts I realized the ceiling in my future shop is going to be congested with lights, conduit, drop cords, retractable reels, air lines and ductwork. Previously I only considered one system at a time, each directly mounted to the ceiling. I am going to have develop a plan and a print. I'll probably install those utilities and systems at various elevations, conduit and air lines on the ceiling, suspend the duct work and do what I must with the light fixtures so they don't cast a shadow.

[Jim Andrew]

For some reason, we don't have 2729 available in this area in 6". It is available in 4". Last time I was at Menards, they had a thin wall 30 in 6". The price of plastic is not cheap like it was when crude oil was low priced, but metal piping is not cheap either. Glad I went through the dust system set up 10 years ago, although a big dc like a clearview would be very nice.