What tool is best for cutting mortises for thru tenons?

[tim walker]

A beefy mortising chisel or smaller, thinner chisels? I typically bore out the center of the mortise with my drill press then finish it off with my Lie Nielsen chisels, but wanted to get an opinion for the Creekers. I have a mortising machine, however the distance to the middle of the board I am mortising precludes the use of that machine.

Thanks all.

[Derek Cohen]

I would use my mortice chisel. Mark both sides and chisel half way from each side.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Chuck Nickerson]

The key to a thru mortise is getting the layout equal on both sides. Then working from both sides (as suggested by Derek) is straight forward.
You ca still bore it out with a brace and bit, just use a bit smaller than the mortise width.

[David Weaver]

Multirouter works great, just square up the corners.

Did I say that out loud? No, I don't have one, but I've never cut through tenons other than with one.

[Jerome Hanby]

Multirouter works great, just square up the corners.

Did I say that out loud? No, I don't have one, but I've never cut through tenons other than with one.

I was thinking chain mortiser <g>. Wonder if you could build an "egg-beater" type of gadget that would chain mortise...

[Jim Matthews]

I also mark carefully and cut 1/2 depth on each side.

I believe that through boring (with a backing board) until the spur of a Forstner bit or auger breaks through,
and finishing off with a chisel gives a satisfactory fit.

I had eight mortises to cut in white oak legs in a class setting that about did my elbow in.
Some tasks (depending on the material) are better handled by a hybrid.

I bore with an auger, and pare down the sides.

[Jim Koepke]

A beefy mortising chisel or smaller, thinner chisels? I typically bore out the center of the mortise with my drill press then finish it off with my Lie Nielsen chisels, but wanted to get an opinion for the Creekers. I have a mortising machine, however the distance to the middle of the board I am mortising precludes the use of that machine.

Thanks all.

For fast and efficient my choice would be the mortising machine. Using careful layout and making sure to always register to the same side(s) should insure success.

During the summer my oldest grandson spent a lot of time with me in the shop. He wanted to learn about woodworking. Many of the mundane operations were done in different manners so he could see how each was performed and how quickly things could be done by hand when the various methods were put to the test.

This confirmed the old saying, "when one teaches, two learn."

In other words, he wasn't the only one learning.

So Tim you may be the best one to answer your own question. Get out the appropriate scrap and see what works best for you with what is currently in your shop.

jtk

[Michael Hammers]

For me it just depends on where the joint is going to go.
My heavy bench base was done sans drill with a "cheater" block of wood clamped to the piece as a "guide" where after a boat load of chopping ended with the mortise chisel.
The shoulders (thankfully) cover any unsightly errors. I used a seletion of chisels to final shape and dress.
I have drilled waste out before and pared, and chopped....I think a lot depends on if it will be seen or not, if it has four "shoulders" or not.
None of mine are what you may call, bragging worthy. Unless the lights are off....

[Adam Cruea]

Cut half, flip the piece, cut the other half.

It's what I did for the 4x4 hickory that is my bench's sled feet and for the top rest for the bench top and then for the 4 stretchers.

16 through mortises in 4x4 hickory. They were basically 1.25" x 2.75". The thing is if you're going to do it all with beating on a chisel, make sure it is square so you can transfer the markings from one side to the other properly.

[Sam Stephens]

I prefer a mortise chisel, but there are definitely folks who use a standard chisel w/ good results. I use a guide block that serves as the offset of the mortise from one edge. It helps my alignment remain precise from both sides.

[Steven Lee, NC]

I have no opinion one way or the other in this thread but I happened to get this advertisement the other day.

http://www.ptreeusa.com/edirect_100813.htm

[Max Withers]

I tried the Paul Sellers method, using a bench chisel instead of a pigsticker in poplar, and it seemed at least equally fast, and maybe more precise?

Just make sure you layout both ends of the mortise from the same face!