Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Glass Display Case

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    3,628

    Glass Display Case

    I've got a client who wants a display case with glass on three sides. She gave me a hand drawn sketch showing round corners in the frames which I added here. The case is 16 in. wide and 12 in. deep--not including the moldings. The box is 40 in. tall. How wide do you suppose the stiles ought to be on the door frame? I don't want to have to make them wider than absolutely needed of you won't be able to see into the case but I don't want the door to flex so much the glass breaks every time the door is opened.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,304
    You could make the stiles vanishingly small if you make the glass sturdy enough. For instance, if you use quarter-inch thick glass, you wouldn't really need a wood frame around it at all. You've probably seen glass doors on modernish stereo cabinets which are built like that. Or maybe you've seen frameless shower doors on a tub that are quarter inch glass. However, I think a frameless door in this more traditional piece wouldn't look right. So I'd make the frame whatever width you want, and put quarter-inch glass in it. If you're a completely belt-and-suspenders guy, you could get the glass tempered. Tempered glass is much more difficult to break than untempered.

  3. #3
    Is it freestanding Dave?

    cheers

    Dave
    You did what !

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    3,628
    Thanks for the suggestions, Jamie.

    Yes, Dave. It'll be free standing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Napa Valley, CA
    Posts
    916
    Dave--

    I'd be comfortable with stiles in the 1 1/2" neighborhood---but those round corners bother me:

    1. I don't like the look---looks "machine made" not "hand made"

    2. They present a structural challenge: introducing short grain in the joint. I would want a bridle joint or a through mortise to get structure beyond the "round".

    I agree with Jamie that the glass can help provide support. If you silicone it in, even double-strength glass (3/32") will provide its own structural integrity. (whereas a "dry" panel would put stress on the joints)

    just my .02

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    3,628
    Jerry, how did you conclude there are short grain joints? That seems like a bit of a leap since I didn't specify it nor show it in the illustration. You seem to have made a lot of assumptions based on a simple, undetailed drawing. What would you change to make it look hand made? The illustration doesn't show any of the fine detail that the final piece would have. I could have added those details but they wouldn't show in this small image.
    Last edited by Dave Richards; 09-30-2013 at 7:31 AM.

  7. #7
    I don't think the round corners add anything beyond more work. Stile size is ok or could be just a little smaller. Base could be a little taller ,then anything on the bottom shelf would have a little more presence .

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    3,628
    The round corners were specified by the client as was the height of the base although I did show her a taller base. This was the first draft based on her design criteria but there are other options offered to her. I was asking only for suggestions on the widths of the rails and stiles on the door.

  9. #9
    This reminds me of the time a date asked me ,"does this dress make me look fat". I replied , "no ,but that big eye in the middle of your forehead makes you look like a cyclops".

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Napa Valley, CA
    Posts
    916
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Richards View Post
    Jerry, how did you conclude there are short grain joints?
    Dave---I made that conclusion based on your drawing. Here's a "close-up" of what your round corner looks like. Do you see the short-grain issue? It's not insurmountable, but a m&t joint would need the tenon to extend beyond the short-grain area (short grain being weak and subject to fracture.) Does that make sense?

    Short Grain 10-1-13.jpg

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •