Chainsaw sawmills

[jerry cousins]

Here’s a go at describing the setup for the 1st cut with a chainsaw mill. Once the log is secure put 2 nails in the top at one end – make sure these nails are level to each other. I usually use 20d nails cause there will be some torque on them. Then do the same at the other end of the log – making sure those nails are level to each other. (The 2 sets of nails do not have to be level). Then put 2 nails in each end of the log – in line with the nails you put on the top. So right now you have put in 8 nails – 2 in each end and 2 on the top of the log at each end (these being level). Take a string and tie it to one of the nails in the log end. Then stretch the string over the top of the nail in the top of the log and run it all the way down to the nail at the other end of the log – over the top of it and then wrap it a few times around the nail sticking in the end of the log – keeping the string taut. Then wrap the string around the other nail in the end of the log and up and over the next nail in the top and all the way back down to where you started – over the top of the last top nail and then tie it off on the remaining end nail.
Now you have 2 parallel strings running the full length of the log. Put more nails in the full length of the log – bringing the top of the nail to the string line – both sides (alongr each string line running the length of the log) . I usually do it about every 15” or so. Now you should have to parallel rows of nails along the length of the log. Remove the string – take out the nails sticking out of the log ends. Set a clean and straight timber (maybe a 2x12 or 2x10 – depends on the diameter of the log) on top of the nails at 1 end of the log – with a little hanging over to make a clean start - so you can set the carriage/rollers true before you start cutting into the log. Set the saw cut depth to the length of the nails plus the board (and a little more to be safe – don’t want to be clipping off any nail points - that's a lot of chain to sharpen). If the log is longer than the board – just cut down near the end of the board – take a break – slide the board down for the next section - then resume cutting. This can be repeated for the full length of the log. Just be careful when you slide the board down not to “tweak” any of the nails.

let me know if this makes any sense - i tried drawing a picture but it would not import into the message.

if it would help i could set something up and take some photos to post.

jerry

[Mike Deschler]

Last October I called Woodmizer for a local contact and was referred to three sawyers. I contacted the local guy, made an appointment and he showed up the following week with a brand new computer controlled hydralic Mizer. A few hours later he had cut over 300 bd ft of walnut and cherry out of many logs and charged me $163 for everything. It was a great show watching him and his dad do their thing. Now to wait a year for the goodies.

[Boyd Gathwright]

Brian,

.... At one time I was interested in the Norwood bandsaw. But, what stopped me was the cost and running of the kiln, unless you intend on air drying.

.... Just some thoughts to consider .

Boyd

I'm looking at buying a chainsaw sawmill for use around the house. As an example i've got a nice 18"dia 15' long black walnut tree laying in my back yard that i'd like to cut into boards. I remember seeing one somewhere that used a 2x6 as a guide and was fairly cheap but accurate.

Anyone got any experience?

Thanks
Brian

[Mike Glaze]

I'm looking at buying a chainsaw sawmill for use around the house. As an example i've got a nice 18"dia 15' long black walnut tree laying in my back yard that i'd like to cut into boards. I remember seeing one somewhere that used a 2x6 as a guide and was fairly cheap but accurate.

Anyone got any experience?

Thanks
Brian

Brian Hale

Everyone has mentioned pretty much every chainsaw mill on the market except one. Go to www.forestryforum.com and search for the GB chainsaw mill posts. A few of the guy's over there prefer it over the Granberg Alaskan mills and it's priced about the same. Most of the guy's on the forestry forum are using the Wood Mizer mills, but there are many posts about the chainsaw mills also. The negative of a Wood Mizer mill is cost, but like many have said: You can hire a sawyer.

Personally I don't want to hire anyone. I want a chainsaw mill that can mill anywhere because I will only be doing this part time when I want to do it and I would only be cutting up one log once in awhile. You need a big chainsaw with the chainsaw mills. Atleast the two biggest models of Stihl or Husky saws made. It is hard on the saws because they are not made to run full out constantly cutting a 15 foot long log. It's hard work, but I'm used to that and I won't be doing it all the time. If you are going to be cutting logs day in day out then you need a Wood Mizer.

Mike

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Well Gents, if you don't mind me adding my two yen to this thread I will.

I just made a Chainsaw mill, and today I took it out of the Dungeon to the Woodlot and got some wood cut.

It is HARD work, for sure, but I'm getting some AMAZING wood for VERY little money.

I bought a used Husky (OK it is OLD circa 1976) 185 CD, this is an 85cc machine, I've had a few troubles with it, but today, when it counted, it ran like a champ!

If you have access to a welder you can build your own mill, I just use a 2x8 for my starter board, and I'm getting good results.

Don't want to start nothing here, but if your saw is tuned and set up right, you keep your chain sharp, and you run the right mix ratio for the gas and oil, your saw should give you no troubles at all.

I know a number of guys who have milled thousands and thousands of BF of wood on a chainsaw mill and never had a problem, their saws are still running flawlessly. It is a 2-smoke engine, they are designed to run WOT (Wide Open Throttle) as that is where the produce the most POWER!! If your saw can't handle WOT for 5 or 10 minutes, you have a problem with how it is set up, IMHO.

Chainsaw mills are great, they are cheap and the do the job.

I just mill the wood where I find it..........



Heck they make good chairs too....



I say buy or make your own, it will pay for itself the first time you use it.

Buy a good old saw, a Husky or a Sthil, tune it up, rebuild the carb, and you have a system to make lumber, now THAT is recycling!!

Cheers!

[Ted Christiansen]

Brian,

The quality of lumber (4/4, 5/4 boards) you get from a Logosol Woodworkers Mill is just as smooth as a large bandmill. It is most likely better than small bandmills (Woodmizer LT10, etc).

A large saw (85cc) with a 16" bar and pico rip chain on the WW Mill will cut 8' long lumber pretty quickly. I have been very happy with mine

Visit the Logosol website to order a DVD.

Ted

[everett lowell]

Brian, I spent about $140 bucks on an alasken sawmill attachment, and slapped it on my dads 15 year old Stihl 026 and and got two ripping chains, and cut up a cherry tree we dropped in his yard.( he now has a maple and another cherry on the ground waiting for me!) I air dried my lumber outside for a year then put it in my basement shop and let it set for another year before I used it. you can see in my pics I have alittle bit left in my wood rack and a table I made my mom out of the tree I used to play in when I was a kid, she loved that I saved part of that old tree! My point is for a small investment you can get your feet wet,with alittle hard work,and taking your time its not bad for occational use like I do. just my 2 cents!

[Roger Bell]

I have used Alaska mills for many years in backcountry settings, so I speak from experience. This is why the Alaska mill was invented...for those situations where you hand-carry the tool to the log and then use the milled material on site. For the "occasional" log that comes your way, it is a relatively economical way to go compared to contracting out. For $150 bucks or so you can get one. If you want a rip chain, that's another $25 or so apiece. Not a lot of investment really.

Yes, it is a lot of work. Yes, it is hard on the saw. Yes, there is a lot of keft waste. Yes, it is a relatively crappy cut compared to a pricier bandsaw mill. Yes, you are better off with the biggest, baddest powerhead ever made. Yes, you may be better off paying someone else to do it entirely, depending on the volume of work and your situation. This is all true.

However, you rest when you are tired. No one dictates that you must mill till U drop. You let the the saw and the chain do the work (just like anything else) and have several sharp chains at the ready. You take your time. If you insist on pushing a smaller saw and/or a dulling chain you may burn up a saw. You can slab off logs with a saw as picayune as 50cc.....but you just take your time, take your time, and don't push it. Use the shortest bar that will get the job done. A powerful powerhead/short bar ratio is what to shoot for insofar as practical. You can clean up a rough-crappy finish with your WW tools after drying.

For production work, the Alaska mill is a bad idea. A poor application outside the design parameters of the tool. For the one-off situation such as yours, it is not a bad idea at all. Really.

[Tim Gruss]

Brian, I own a one man cabinet shop. I have a Stihl MS310 and the Alaskan small log mill. The main thing that inexperenced users forget is chain and drive system maintenance. With a properly maintained cutting system my 9 year old could easily cut that walnut. I have found that bar groove wear and proper chain sharpening to be the most important aspects of my system. I have cut about 4000 board feet of Red Oak, Slippery Elm, Maple, Butternut, Poplar, Sycamore,Spruce, White Ash, Shagbark Hickory, Northern White Cedar, Red Cedar so far this year part time. The system is only as good as the operator is willing to make it. I also have a Solor Kiln the will dry around 800 bf per charge. Good luck with all your future woodworking endeavors. Tim,Treasurewoodworking.com

[Jim Becker]

Just a note about this discussion...which is very good, by the way. Brian started this thread back in May of 2005. It was "resurrected" on 23 December by a new post.

Jim
SMC Moderator

[Billy Chambless]

Just a note about this discussion...which is very good, by the way. Brian started this thread back in May of 2005. It was "resurrected" on 23 December by a new post.

Jim
SMC Moderator

And I've been glad to see it; I've been trying to decide how best to deal with a bunch of downed trees on my property (Katrina fallout). A little freehand milling has convinced me that

1. My Stihl 290 is up to the job
and
2. I need some sort of mill to keep things under control.

I have talked to a couple of sawyers, but more than half of the trees are so deep in the woods that moving them all to a mill setup isn't realistic. I'm thinking that with an Alaskan or Timberjig, I can mill one log at a time, in place and start air drying.

Once again, SMC ends up being a handy resource.

[Ted Christiansen]

Billy,

A Logosol Timberjig, Logosol 16" bar and ripping chain will work ok with that saw. Of course a larger saw would be better, but yours will get the job done. Dont use 3/8" ripping chain - it will be a frustrating experience as it will be much slower and with a poorer surface finish.

Tim is right - bar, chain and drive system (sprocket) maintenence is key. I have learned more about chainsaws in the last 1-1/2 years than I ever thought I would know. Chainsaw mills are much more sensitive to properly sharpened chain, a bar that is tuned (filed regularly) than when crosscutting.

Ted

[Brian Hale]

Lots of good information folks, Thanks!!

I've still got that walnut tree in the back yard , 2 poplars in the woods and a very large sycamore my neighbor wants to get rid of (he's afraid it'll fall on his house). The sycamore and walnut is easy to get to with woodmizer type bandmill but the poplars need to be cut where they fall so i'm still tossing around the chainsaww mill. If i go that route i'll do all 4 with the chainsaw. My son has a few friends that seem to think it'll be fun and all i need to do is supply pizza and adult beverages.....

Brian

[Leonard Clark]

I have a chainsaw mill. When I use it the chain gets very hot, plus it makes dust not chips. I do use a rip chain and it was new. And how much of the bar should be sticking out of the log?

[Peter Kelly]

Just a note about this discussion...which is very good, by the way. Brian started this thread back in May of 2005. It was "resurrected" on 23 December by a new post.

Jim
SMC Moderator

Still going 10 years on...