Maybe rather than duplicate the chair, you could find historical inspiration similar to how Hans Wegner found inspiration in Han Dynasty chairs. I think it would offer you more of the credit you will ultimately deserve when you complete this than if you were to simply build a chair that has been built by some of Denmark's top cabinet shops for many years. You will ultimately find yourself forfeiting credit when someone comes along with a knowledge of furniture and inquires about your piece.
Derek, let me know what kinds of measurements will be useful, and if you can deal with the imperial conversion, and I'll get it for you.
I'm particularly interested to learn how you form those mortise cylinders -- I guess the word would be bosses?-- on the bottom of the arms. All I can think of is a (modified) hole saw and a ****load of sandpaper. I assume you have a treadle lathe for the legs? Not that I'd judge for going electric there, they have to be turned. Of course the scarf/finger/dovetail joint will be a highlight too.
re: Brian's comment above, I get the point, but EVERY surface on this chair is curved and tapered. Recreating that with a drawknife is going to be intensely individual. If anyone could build a slavish reproduction of this chair by hand, it's probably Derek, but I suspect the final product is going to be plenty personalized.
Thanks Max. I shall put together a few photos with arrows where the important measurements need to be. Imperial or Metric is all the same to me. Probably better in Metric since the chair is Danish
I do have and will use a powered lathe for the legs. I cannot think of a better tool for this. There will be a fair amount of hand shaping, but there is no guilt in roughing out with machines.
Joinery for this chair is mainly mortice-and-tenon. I've seen some footage of these going together, but not being made.
Once the dimensions are sorted out, it should not be too difficult to work out a strategy. As always, let's hear from anyone who has done this.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Thanks for the video link, Jim. All Danish Modern furniture has inspired me since I was a kid. This chair is so classic.
I agree the 4-small dowels that join the legs seem inadequate. However they video points out they ease the shoulders because the racking creates an obvious moving joint. The test of time must prove they have a low enough failure rate in that area.
Fascinating video.
Here's a side elevation. If this is useful I'll tackle the front later. I suspect the 1/32" height difference I got between the legs is just differential wear over the last 40 years or so.
wegner-side.jpg
edit: the height of the seat rail is different because the seat is pitched (higher in the front) and the back leg is splayed more than the front (that's those green angles at the bottom, v. approximate).
Last edited by Max Withers; 09-03-2013 at 11:32 AM.
Many thanks Max.
The other measurement to add to my list are the inside and outside angles of the back rest.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Hi Max
Here are further measurements! (It would probably be easier if you just send the chair to me!! ) ..
Thanks.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I'm on it Derek, it just make take me a few days! Hope you're enjoying the metric conversions.
wegner-front.jpg
front-rail.jpg
More to come! Sorry this is taking me so long.
Here's an un-annotated detail of the joint to ponder while you wait:
photo (4).jpg
You can see the top of the leg is ever so slightly chamfered to meet the arm, as mentioned in the video Jim posted. The other legs on this chair are more subtle.
Last edited by Max Withers; 09-10-2013 at 12:46 PM.
Many thanks Max. It looks like I soon will be able to make up some templates. Keep the dimensions coming.
That chamfer was, if I recall, to emphasise the joint.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Sorry this took so long! I am a horrible internet correspondant.
Dimensions5.jpg
Dimensions6.jpg
I got a little confused about what you were after on the seat rail arcs: the measurement given (2 1/4") is from the (center) front face of the upholstered part to the plane formed by the inside of the legs. Add 1/2" to get to the face of the rail.
I'm also unsure of what angle you want on the back rest -- or maybe how to measure it. With a bevel, protractor and a lot of eyeball, I come up with 84º:
Dimensions4.jpg
The thickness at the base is right around an inch.
Sorry, again, for the hold up, and I will try to be faster with any clarifications you need.
Hi Max
You are an absolute Star! If I can do justice to Wegner's design, the principle reason will be because of the dimensions you are provided. Trying to scale from a picture is terribly difficult, and with this chair probably too difficult as there are many subtle angles to contend with.
Next step is to draw up some templates so that I can choose the wood.
Regards from Perth
Derek
image4.jpegimage2 (3).jpegimage1.jpegimage0 (1).jpegimage0 (2).jpegimage0.jpegimage1 (1).jpegimage1 (2).jpeg
Been hand making this amazing chair inspired by Hans Wegner, Derek Cohen and his website https://www.inthewoodshop.com. Taking pointers and measurements from this post too. Been a while so hoping someone sees this post. If so please respond and check out more pics on instagram @scotty_woodworker. this is my first post on this forum, found it while researching how to even begin hand making this chair.