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Thread: Tool Chest Finish

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Marietta, GA
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    389

    Tool Chest Finish

    I got about 75% of the way thru a plywood version of the Dutch Tool Chest. My plan was to paint the outside with milk paint and likely cover that paint with a home brew of MS/BLO/poly. My question is whether I should also coat the inside with the MS/BLO/poly mix, shellac, something else? Or should I leave it natural? I know some folks leave the inside unfinished - does using plywood change that?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
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    3,697
    I'd leave it uncoated or at most coat it with a seal coat or two of Bullseye SealCoat dewaxed shellac (well really any shellac, premixed stuff is just nice for stuff like that). Oil based finishes will take forever to cure closed in a tool chest and it will stink every time you open it.
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
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    1,621
    second that. an oil finish will stink forever. and Congrats! C

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    South Coastal Massachusetts
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    Why not just use the same stuff for kitchen cabinets?

    It's designed to resist chipping, and repel dirt.
    I like water-based eggshell enamels.

    Some people like the gloss stuff, because it's harder but I don't like the bright sheen.
    Seal with Zinser Bullseye shellac first, two coats brushed on.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Marietta, GA
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    389
    User two votes for shellac. Anyone have experience as to what the shellacked surface looks like after use and applying oil to planes?

    Wonder if I could just apply a paste wax and what that would look like after use and applied oils

  6. #6
    Personally, I'd just use BLO + poly. It'll be easier to apply in this instance than shellac. Because this is a tool chest and not a kitchen cabinet, IMHO, the off-gassing won't be so objectionable. Also, a softer oil or oil/varnish finish is IMHO more appropriate than a brittle finish like shellac here.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Kurt Cady View Post
    User two votes for shellac. Anyone have experience as to what the shellacked surface looks like after use and applying oil to planes?

    Wonder if I could just apply a paste wax and what that would look like after use and applied oils
    I would do a light coat of shellac and wax. I use it on all kinds of stuff, and it works great. no reason it wouldn't work fantastic here.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Raleigh, North Carolina
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    136
    I finished the interior drawer unit with BLO but the case of reclaimed pine was left unfinished. I have had no rust issues with any of the Img0066.jpg metal tools stored in the bottom in the 4 years of use.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
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    12,185
    One other item that should go on the iside of any chest for tools, a Desicant to absorb any rust producing moisture inside. Ask for a bag full of the packets down at the local drug store. They come with the larger tubs of pills, and need to go SOMEWHERE when all the pills have left. Acouple in each tool space will do, whether it is a till, or a tray, or a drawer. Change as often as you think it needs it, to stay rust-free inside.


    Plywood box? maybe something like what goes on those "Corn Hole" game boards around here, something that can stand up to a bit of abuse...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    389
    Thank you to everyone that responded. I think that I will probably go with a coat of shellac and then wax.

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