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Thread: Shooting Board Question

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,497
    Alan

    While it is possible to be accurate in your measurements, I do believe that a better design builds into it a degree of adjustability. See below for my solution. Make the "bolt side" a tight fit, while the "butterfly side" bolt hole in the fence is made a couple of mm larger than the bolt. This gives you a few mm adjustment each way.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
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    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 05-27-2005 at 11:06 PM.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Sarasota, Fl
    Posts
    1,916
    Derek, That's a great idea. It reminds me of how I made my cut off jig. Except once it was at a perfect 90 degrees, I made it nonadjustable. Thanks for the pic. BTW nice cup in the background. Alan in Md.
    Alan T. Thank God for every pain free day you live.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    4,673
    OK - another dumb question from a shooting board newbie. As near as I can tell, the pics of the above SB's are for shooting end grain miters or crosscuts?? I need to make up about 5 ft of the profile below. How should I approach making a SB to allow me to do the long grain bevels?
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    Last edited by Doug Shepard; 05-28-2005 at 8:54 AM.
    Use the fence Luke

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    KC, MO
    Posts
    2,041
    Doug,

    You can plane the edge grain using the 90* shooting board.......you may just need a longer board...........

    For those bevels......looks like each joint form a 22.5* angle....
    You could take a 11.25* shim under the board your shooting and clamp it to the SB...then run the plane on the edge grain.......flip and do other edge (you may have to plain opposite direction for grain.......and repeat as needed

    You can also make a "donkey's ear" shooting board and adjust your angle's up to 45* slant......

    I hope my math is correct........

  5. #20
    I'd agree - donkey's ear seems it'd be easiest for this. Here's one ...

    Donkey's Ear

    What's the profile for?

    Clay

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Waterford, MI
    Posts
    4,673
    Quote Originally Posted by Clay Craig
    I'd agree - donkey's ear seems it'd be easiest for this. Here's one ...

    Donkey's Ear

    What's the profile for?

    Clay
    Clay and Roy - muchos gracias. Clay - thanks for the link. That looks like it would work. The profile is for the top till section of a jewelry box project. I haven't decided yet whether to round everything off after assembly. I'm tempted to leave the facets as they are. The original idea was just to better allow for rounding off without the vertical corner transition becoming too thin.
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    Use the fence Luke

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Lilburn, GA
    Posts
    413
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Tolchinsky
    Great discussion! I don't have any shooting boards yet but I was wondering how you make sure it's perfectly square or 45 degrees? I don't trust any of my squares to check it with that. Is there another test you can use to verify that it's perfect? Alan in Md.
    A 45 degree drafting triangle is very accurate and relatively cheap. The bigger the triangle the better, within reason. 12 inch sides would be big enough,

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