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Thread: Miter saw dust hood

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Acworth, GA

    Miter saw dust hood

    I was asked in a PM to provide some more detail on the removable dust hood I made for my miter saw. My saw is the Makita LS1013. The dust bag by itself is just a little bit better than worthless. I started by making the stand generally as described in the December 1999 issue of Wood magazine, adjusting the sizes to accommodate my saw. It is abut 24” deep, 34” wide, and the saw table is 38” above the floor. I notched the top of the back down 2 ½” to provide ½” clearance under the slide when it is pushed back. I did not want to make the stand deep enough to contain the entire slide. The stand would have had to be 30” deep.

    I wanted to enclose as much as I could, which meant closing in the front from the sides up to where it would interfere with left and right miters. But the fold up wings use draw clamps to lock the wings in place so I had to angle the “side curtains” back at 45 degrees. For the side curtains I used ½” plywood. For everything else I used ¼” plywood with strips of ¾” pine and plywood as glue blocks.

    The dust hood just sits on top, it is not bolted or screwed down.

    The bottom of the dust hood extends 6” out the back. Two ¾” strips with a ¾” space between them slip over the stand back where I notched it down to clear the miter slide. The sides, back, top, and side curtains form a box about 14” high, 20” deep and 32 ½” wide.

    Once I had the box together, I could then mark what I needed to remove to allow for right and left miters. I then added a second 3 cornered hood to cover the hole I made. I did not set this up to handle bevel cuts as I never do any. It’s too hard to get the saw back to a perfect 90 degree cut when you change the bevel. Anyone out there have any tricks to make it easier?

    The pictures of the stand are in this thread.

    It won’t let me upload the same pictures again (makes sense) but I don’t know how to point to a specific picture in a thread. I hope the thread pointer works.

    Picture 1 shows one of the draw clamps I had to leave room for.

    Picture 2 is a side view showing the two cleats that slide down over the back.

    Picture 3 is a bottom view.

    Picture 4 is a left front view.

    Picture 5 shows the pvc 45 degree elbow I needed to add.

    I know I’m not very good at explaining things, but ask any questions and I’ll try to answer them.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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