Jointer question for the SMC pro's...

[Ray Bersch]

Now you can use your jointer pals or Per magnetic glass.

Make that Per Magnetic Glass and you've got a new product!! Cool.

Now, Per, your modesty is to be admired, but no one else has mentioned that they use the idea, in fact even a retired teacher lamented about not using the idea during his - how long? - teaching career....sooooo.....submit the idea to the magazine that gives the best prizes and when it is delivered to you I'll stop by and pick it up - wouldn't want you to feel guilty about getting something for nothing...........(and, this way, you let the magazine figure out if it is an original idea)

Sure beats arguing about Festool vs EZ Guide - anyone want to talk about high wing planes vs low wing planes (airplanes, that is) or Army vs Marine Corps - nope, can't got there, there is no comparison.

[Dev Emch]

In reviewing Mr. Swenson's work, I must correct myself. I have seen this method used the opposite way with the magnets down. Mr. Swenson has his upward. I would still use super glue. This trick will work. But make sure your magnets are centered over top dead center of the cylinder. Sorry about this oversight.

I also saw this trick published in fine woodworking magazine but I dont recall if the magnets were up or down.

As I said, I dont use this method because its difficult to maintain a precise projection while at the same time trying to maintain parallelism with the outfeed table.

My statements are based on working with a 24 inch oliver 166 and a 20 inch porter 300 jointer. Clearly more difficult to deal with than a 6 inch grizzly. These jointers are literally dialed in and shimmed out to within +/- 0.001 inch accuracy as read by dial indicator. If I am missing something here, please let me know about.

[Dan Oelke]

Per,

Don't be so modest - I haven't seen that, and I probably do more reading than building <sigh>.

Send it in, complete with the fact that you use a narrow enough piece of glass to get at the outside screws. Put in the description that you got the idea from someone long ago, but can't remember where/when you got it.

As someone who is on the front line against plagiarism (I teach one college course) I can say that I wouldn't consider it plagiarism if it is something you use and can describe that well - especially if it is something you learned long ago. That is retelling of knowledge. By telling them you learned the method from someplace else long ago you finish the job by being completely truthful. After all - plagiarism is really just lieing. Specifically lieing about if you came up with some words/idea on your own. By fulling disclosing the truth you aren't plagiarising.

[John Harris]

Lots of great thoughts. Thanks a bunch.


I am heading down the road of using Per's idea. I am going to add a quick jig to easily set the outfeed table 3/32" higher then the cutting cylinder as Dev suggested.

[John Hart]

Per's concerns are legit, in that he is honorable enough to say that he got the idea somewhere else. And I would agree if the idea had been lost to time, it's worth publishing. So in Per's behalf, I ran a search and came up with this. Found it at Fourtunecity.com. Edit: Now, as Greg Mann points out in a future post, this setup is somewhat incorrect as it does not address the issue as stated by Dev earlier. The height of the outfeed surface is crucial when making this adjustment. please refer to Dev's post regarding the height considerations.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 309px; HEIGHT: 293px" cellSpacing=5 borderColorDark=#ffffff cellPadding=2 rules=none width=309 align=left borderColorLight=#00ff00 border=1 frame=box VSPACE="0" HSPACE="0"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=200 bgColor=#ff6600 height=213>This jig makes it easy to get your jointer knives "right"



A 3/8" piece of glass and 4 "Rare Earth" magnets and some Super Glue or epoxy are all that's needed. Glue the 4 magnets as shown, and set the jig on the outfeed table as shown. The magnets hold the jig to the table and hold the knives in the correct position for you to tighten the knive holding screws.


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[Ray Bersch]

John Hart quote: "Per's concerns are legit, in that he is honorable enough to say that he got the idea somewhere else. And I would agree if the idea had been lost to time, it's worth publishing. So in Per's behalf, I ran a search and came up with this. Found it at Fourtunecity.com"

Darn, there goes my free tool. Oh, well, I'll settle for a good idea.
Ray

[Per Swenson]

Folks,
Please remember this method is older then
Al Gores internet.
This style jointer head is from 1939.
Now I am pretty sure the real old geezers
(like my father) had this figured out about a month after.
Although I did ask him where I found the info,
all he said was, " Per, I have no Idea where you come
up with half the stuff you do"
I think he was referring to something else.
Thanks for trying,
Per

[Greg Mann]

John,

That was a good find but the drawing is deceptive. As per knows and Dev pointed out, it is important to have the blade at Top Dead Center. The drawing does not make that clear and, in fact, shows the setup improperly. I know you are not responsible for this erroeous drawing but, since it is your post, you might want to edit it to point to oversight out. If I am being to presumptuous here please feel free to tell me so.

Greg

Per's concerns are legit, in that he is honorable enough to say that he got the idea somewhere else. And I would agree if the idea had been lost to time, it's worth publishing. So in Per's behalf, I ran a search and came up with this. Found it at Fourtunecity.com

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 309px; HEIGHT: 293px" cellSpacing=5 borderColorDark=#ffffff cellPadding=2 rules=none width=309 align=left borderColorLight=#00ff00 border=1 frame=box VSPACE="0" HSPACE="0"><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width=200 bgColor=#ff6600 height=213>This jig makes it easy to get your jointer knives "right"



A 3/8" piece of glass and 4 "Rare Earth" magnets and some Super Glue or epoxy are all that's needed. Glue the 4 magnets as shown, and set the jig on the outfeed table as shown. The magnets hold the jig to the table and hold the knives in the correct position for you to tighten the knive holding screws.


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[John Hart]

Ok...I think I got it right. Thanks Greg. This is probably too important to get it wrong.

[Greg Mann]

Ok...I think I got it right. Thanks Greg. This is probably too important to get it wrong.

Boy, you sure did John! What is it we always hear? Make sure you read the fine print?

Greg

[Per Swenson]

Thanks Greg, Thanks John,
More hubris again,
I figure you own one , you know that.
That is what truly makes this forum one of a kind.
Per

[Mikey Aitchison]

and after 3 long years of frustration with my Jet 6" jointer, TODAY, I finally achieved a very nice even setting for my 3 blades. I was just about to purchase a setting jig, i'm glad I didn't. Thanks to Per for the great suggestion and picture. I found the glass at home depot for 1.72, the magnets at Fry's for 6.99 and I had the super glue. It took a few minutes to make the jig, then only 10 minutes to set the blades. AMAZING. I did set the blade side magnets fairly close to the edge of the glass ( about 3/8" off the lip). I cut the glass to about 5.5" wide. I found it very easy to loosen the holding bolts, and by placing my left hand on the glass, I was assured the blades did not move while I tightened the bolts. I am jumping with joy.

[Alan Turner]

[QUOTE=Dev Emch;182994]Hi John...
I

Not all jointers have lifting screws. In fact, virutally all olivers do not have these. Instead, there is a hole where the lifting screw would go but no provisions for a lifting screw. One method I use to set blades on both my oliver planer and oliver jointer is to use the following gizzmo. This is home made mini slide hammer. You install the knife and finger tighten the gib bolts. Just tight enough to keep the kife from dropping down. Then using a indicator, carfefully and with finese pop the hammer until the knife comes into place. Do this along all three holes along each knife.


Dev,
Dev,
We have a 20" Oliver #166. I believe the Oliver's holes you mention are for a knife puller, which is sort of like a crochet hook with a screw. Loosen, and pull the knives, and then tap them back down with a special knife setting block, which gets them both to the right height, and parallel to the cutter head. The knife setting block pushes on the bevel, not the sharp edge, and works well. Oliver still has these, or will make them for you. We use these when we need to grind the knives, which we do on the machine. Ours came with the original Oliver grinder. Takes about 30 - 45 min. to grind the knives and joint them. Sort of an interesting process.

[Chris Parks]

A thread from the dead! I recently had to do this job on my Wadkins Bursgreen jointer. I had put it off for three years, I knew they needed doing, but it had not been used so I ignored the job until I absolutely had to due to all the horror stories I had heard. WB have been really clever, they provide a setting gauge which sits on the rotating head and automatically sets the height. The reason it is so simple is that the knives sit on springs and push the knives up to the setting gauge and it takes two minutes to do two knives. I have never seen the head of another jointer but would it be possible to put a length of foam rubber under the knives, push them in, set the height using a gauge on the roller head and then pull the foam out from underneath? This would create a push the knives against the gauge and life becomes so simple after that. It might be heresy, but I suspect the foam could be left in there with no ill effect, as it is light and no matter what happened it couldn't really escape.

[Darius Ferlas]

Folks, thank you all for your kind words, but this is not a original idea
and my apologys for not stating that.
For the life of me I can not remember where it came from,
but I am sure its been around as long as the 1958 delta jointer
pictured. To submit it would be plagarism.

Thank you all.
Per

To me this is still a Swenson Jig, and the thread very much worth refreshing.

I made a version of the jig (added extra magnets) and it worked like a charm. Before that the torturous attempts to set the knives with a dial indicator took me over 3 hours and the result was iffy at best. With the Swenson Jig I was done in 10 minutes and the jointed faces are perfect.

Thank you.