Design for Splitting/Cleaving Break

[Jim Paulson]

What would be a sturdy design for a splitting/cleaving break? (to help hold a log or portion thereof so you can keep reducing it/riving into smaller pieces). Usually what I do in the driveway is wedge sections in the pile. That is not a good way and things move too much. I get things done, but the efficiency isn't as good as I want. Personally, I'd like to design something out of scrap steel so it doesn't take up as much room. I live in town and can't dedicate an area like J. Alexander or other green woodworking folks do. Ideally, it would be cool to bolt it together and be able to store it until needed. I really can't go with something that looks like a pile of logs though.

Any thoughts?

[Steve Voigt]

I can't post a picture right now, but all you need is two 2 x 10s or 2 x 12s about 5 feet long. Lay them on edge, then grab a chunk of whatever you're splitting, and tilt it at an angle to eyeball the location of the two holes you need. Drill some holes and stick in two pieces of black iron pipe to use as your levers.
That's a dirt simple design; for more evolved approaches, do a search on peter galbert's chairnotes blog--he's got a nice design for an improved brake. I think jennie alexander's greenwood site might also have a design, iirc.

[Jim Paulson]

Thanks Steve. I've seen the design by Jennie Alexander and will search for Peter Galbert's design. When you use your splitting break, is it necessary to add weight on top of it when leveraging the stock?

[Steve Voigt]

When you use your splitting break, is it necessary to add weight on top of it when leveraging the stock?

Hey Jim,
No, I never had any problem with it lifting up.
Below is a picture of the ugliest brake ever. The two boards aren't even the same length. But it works fine. Took 10 minutes to make. Couple things:
- An improvement would be to relieve the area between the pipes--just make a u-shaped notch 3 or 4 inches deep--so that the froe can go down a little farther.
- For smaller pieces, I need to place shims--just pieces of 1 x 4 will work fine--between the lower pipe and the work piece. More sophisticated designs, with more pipes, might not need this.
- The pipes are a press fit through the boards, so that helps keep the whole thing together. If the pipes are a loose fit, you probably want to nail boards across the ends.

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[Jim Paulson]

Steve,
I appreciate the information and the picture. I'll certainly have one on hand for the next episode of splitting chair parts.
I'm estimating that the spacing between the two boards is a few inches longer than the Froe length--say 18 inches since my Froe is about 13-14 inches long.

Take care,
Jim

[Bruce Haugen]

Hey Jim,

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That looks exactly like the brake that Curt Buchanan uses, and he works magic with it.

[Jim Paulson]

That looks exactly like the brake that Curt Buchanan uses, and he works magic with it.

Neat. Was that a Windsor chair class by chance?

[Bruce Haugen]

I didn't take a class with Curt B; I only wish that I could. He has posted a fantastic series of videos on YouTube that detail prit near everything you need to know about making a sackback Windsor, 52 episodes in all. I'm at work, and YouTube is blocked here, else I would post a link, but they're easy to find. YouTube can be a wonderful place or full of crap, but Mr. B's videos are the absolute best of the best.

[Paul Saffold]

http://www.curtisbuchananchairmaker.com/videos.html

[Jim Paulson]

Thanks Bruce and Paul. I'll check out the videos. Curtis Buchanan has a neat website and makes beautiful chairs. I received some excellent training from Mike Dunbar in making Windsor chairs, but we focused more on building chairs rather than material preparation. Our materials were riven just not during class. I have chairs posted on my website at www.chairsbypaulson.com

I think it's time I build a brake and fortunately a friend has offered me some pipe. I saw Peter Galbert's brake on his blog site also. Thanks again.

[Tony Shea]

I was just about to post that you should check out Peter Galbert. I personally don't care too much for the Windsor, but I do really enjoy seeing their process of making one. I have watched a lot of Peter's videos and some of Curtis's and really find them entertaining.

Having said all that I would love to build myself a Perch seat by Peter. I really like the concept and think it is something I can pull of with just hand tools and no lathe. I don't care for the fancy turned legs anyway and is one of the reasons I don't care for the windsor chair. The problem I am currently having is finding a nice wide 2"+ thick pine seat blank. Even being in Maine it is hard to find such pine now a days. I need to go drive around to these places with portable sawmills and see what they have as most the guys around here are sawing up softwoods like pine. But nice wide clear Eastern White is not easy to come up with. On the other hand I have been thinking about making this seat out of cherry or some other hardwood.

[Jim Paulson]

I was just about to post that you should check out Peter Galbert. I personally don't care too much for the Windsor, but I do really enjoy seeing their process of making one. I have watched a lot of Peter's videos and some of Curtis's and really find them entertaining.

Having said all that I would love to build myself a Perch seat by Peter. I really like the concept and think it is something I can pull of with just hand tools and no lathe. I don't care for the fancy turned legs anyway and is one of the reasons I don't care for the windsor chair.

I'm working on what I call a philadelphia high back Windsor chair for my mom, it is very similar to Curtis' comb back chair in the video except it doesn't have the tailpiece and two additional spindles as a brace. I didn't fall in love with Windsors because of the turnings. In fact, what is great about your comment is that goes back to the design question, what should you see first, turnings, gloss of finish, milk paint, seat, etc.? I like the chairs that Curtis makes, but what I see first is bulbous turnings. Maybe it is because I made ladder back chairs first with a drawknife and spokeshave, I don't know. But I can tell you that the carved seat and hand shaped spindles and visible tool marks make the Windsor chair for me. I'll probably check that out even better by turning some of the bamboo style legs at some point.

Take care,
Jim

[Jack Curtis]

I was just about to post that you should check out Peter Galbert. I personally don't care too much for the Windsor, but I do really enjoy seeing their process of making one. I have watched a lot of Peter's videos and some of Curtis's and really find them entertaining.

Having said all that I would love to build myself a Perch seat by Peter. I really like the concept and think it is something I can pull of with just hand tools and no lathe. I don't care for the fancy turned legs anyway and is one of the reasons I don't care for the windsor chair. ...

That was my opinion as well until I looked closely at Curtis' turned legs, absolutely beautiful in and of themselves, but also in the context of his chairs. And for the sublime, check out his birdcages.

[Tony Shea]

That was my opinion as well until I looked closely at Curtis' turned legs, absolutely beautiful in and of themselves, but also in the context of his chairs. And for the sublime, check out his birdcages.

Jack, thanks for pointing out his Birdcages. Now these I do really like the looks of. Much more suited to my taste without the bulbous turnings. Curtis certainly is very talented and I love seeing his work in action. He has been very helpful in creating such an in depth series of videos that shows his whole process and appreciate him taking the time to do so.

[Jim Paulson]

I really like birdcage Windsor chairs and certainly Curtis Buchanan makes a very nice one. I have an antique one from about 1805 and I am planning to make two birdcage side chairs based on that design.

Also, speaking of Windsor chair legs, I just finished the chair I made for my Mom based on some training I got from Mike Dunbar. Note the design of the lower part of the legs is different than what you commonly see on Windsor chairs. This reflects quite a range of leg designs for Windsor chairs historically based on the chair maker and the region/location where they were made. I suspect that as I make Windsors over time, my expression of the vases on the legs and their prominence will evolve.



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