I used to employ a piece of scrap for tightening or loosening a blade on my old Crapsman contractor's saw, but I like the two-wrench method of my BT3K more.
I used to employ a piece of scrap for tightening or loosening a blade on my old Crapsman contractor's saw, but I like the two-wrench method of my BT3K more.
Here, this may help in the future:
Another way to ensure the nut doesn't come loose is to weld everything together to the arbor, but that's not recommended, as it might warp the blade plate.
Last edited by Jacob Reverb; 07-17-2013 at 4:43 PM.
My 1023SLX came with two wrenches, an open-end wrench for the flat on the arbor shaft and a box-end wrench for the arbor nut. I, too, haven't figured out what the large end of the box-end wrench fits. I also bent the open-end wrench jaws. The wrenches are merely stamped steel and those open-end jaws will spread apart pretty easily. I give the arbor nut an additional 1/4 turn after hand tightening.
Cody
Logmaster LM-1 sawmill, 30 hp Kioti tractor w/ FEL, Stihl 290 chainsaw, 300 bf cap. Solar Kiln
My opinion is that using the 2 wrenches too easily allows for over tightening. By using a rag to hold the blade it is next to impossible to over tighten. I guess since I lost my other wrench, that's about my only option anyway (short of spending money on something I didn't know I needed in the first place)
Last edited by Larry Browning; 07-17-2013 at 6:02 PM.
Larry J Browning
There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.
Well, nobody makes one accurate to .00001 Angstrom-nanonewtons yet, but I hear the people who make $300 framing squares are working on it!
Maybe the fact that the OEM wrench is made of 32-gauge pot metal is a clue that you're not supposed to put a 14-foot breaker bar on it.