Frequency settings on Epilog- Everyone probably knows this..but if you don't..

[Larry Bratton]

I ran into an issue the other day on cutting some 1/8" acrylic. I cut tons of it and have been having few problems until this occurred. I have my alignment perfect and my tube is less than a year old or I would have thought one of these was the culprit. I got in some new material from Calsak plastics who sells their private label material and it is all cast. With the new material, I started getting various areas in the 36 x 24 sheet that would not cut out properly. I cut with the paper mask on it lately because my customers want it left on both sides. I checked everything I could think of, the stuff is flat ok, etc etc. I finally just grabbed Brian at tech support on the Epilog chat, and he advised me to try lowering the frequency. Friends, I have owned this machine now for 6 years I think..and I always cut acrylic at 5000f..forever, never gave it a thought not to with acrylic. Brian explained that with variation or even a fairly minor change in the same manufacturers material, one needs to test to get the optimum frequency for the particular material. I say, well what's going to happen to my nice polished edge? He says that if I dropped below a 1000f I might notice it, but for some unexplained reason (quote) the machine has more cutting power at lower frequency. It dawns on me that I can cut 1/4" plywood at 500f and just walk right through it. It did a test on the material at 1000, 1500, and 2000 and as far as the edge quality was concerned, I could not perceive a bit of difference. I started cutting then at 1000 and problem went away. So, hopefully my revelation about this will be helpful to some that don't know this.
Larry

[Frank Corker]

Larry I found that out the long way too with acrylic, although I had always done the plywood and real wood at 500 otherwise it would just burn to a crisp on 5000, I'm talking about the acrylic. I also found that the power level can often be dropped from 100 to 85 and still get a really nice cut with much less chance of overheating and distortion on the material. Without a doubt, experimentation is the best practice.

[Joe Pelonio]

I tried the house brand at Calsak for a big job and found that it's inconsistent in thickness and even density between sheets. It is less expensive (made in Malaysia) but I went back to Acrylite.

[Larry Bratton]

Joe,
How long ago has that been? I used some of that same material I think a long time ago and had the same issues. But in the last year or so I have cut a bunch of it and it works like a charm. I think they may have improved the quality or possibly even changed who is making it. I guarantee you the price is hard to beat and the shipping is good. I get mine from Atlanta but they have a warehouse in California, I have gotten some material from there when it wasn't available elsewhere. It engraves beautifully also, especially the clear. Plus, they cut my whole sheets to 36x24 pieces to fit my table, no charge. They are a great supplier..at least to me.

I tried the house brand at Calsak for a big job and found that it's inconsistent in thickness and even density between sheets. It is less expensive (made in Malaysia) but I went back to Acrylite.

[Larry Bratton]

Yes Frank, I think that cutting the power down may work too. Cutting the frequency helped a lot and now I'm not scorching and setting the paper mask on fire. Best thing I've learned lately.

Larry I found that out the long way too with acrylic, although I had always done the plywood and real wood at 500 otherwise it would just burn to a crisp on 5000, I'm talking about the acrylic. I also found that the power level can often be dropped from 100 to 85 and still get a really nice cut with much less chance of overheating and distortion on the material. Without a doubt, experimentation is the best practice.