Member
I would love to have something like this for my tablesaw, especially after the blade. Sometimes I notice the workpiece drifts away from the fence behind the blade, especially when I have to use a push stick (narrow pieces). Featherboards don't always solve the problem. Yes, I've set my fence up parallel to the blade (verified with dial indicator). Board buddies are way too big- they would interfere with the blade guard and dust collection.
Hmmm... now I'm thinking.
Member
Well make a fence with a T-track on it and then attach it to your table saw fence, just make sure you fence on the saw has some type of a hold down in the back.Originally Posted by Peter Aeschliman
[OP]
Contributor
Good idea, maybe Jessem would consider a slightly larger version for the table saw.
Rick P
Contributor
[QUOTE=Rick Potter;2122720]Good idea, maybe Jessem would consider a slightly larger version for the table saw.
+1
I hope Jessem is reading this thread, cause I fully agree with this shortcoming for TS use. ie. the ability to hold thin cuts against the fence... a push block is the safe way to push small pieces, but its downside is, it diminishes directional control of the piece being pushed...this Jessem product, beefed up a bit, and maybe with a larger radius swing arm to accommodate a larger array of fences and stock thicknesses would be a smash hit IMO....
[OP]
Contributor
Good news,
I just got a confirmation from Jessem that they shipped my order today.
Rick P
Member
Bill's point about making sure the fence doesn't lift off the table is a good one. With a t-square style fence, I wonder whether you could generate adequate downward pressure without lifting the fence off of the table. That is one common criticism I've read about the Board Buddies, which attempt to do the same thing.
I want to get out to my shop and do some testing. All I would want is for it to hold the workpiece tight to the fence after the blade. I'm less concerned about keeping the workpiece down on the table (which is easy to control with a push stick).
I've often thought about how something like this could be incorporated into a riving knife- if a riving knife was toed slightly toward the fence, it might have the same effect. Shoot, I should get my sawstop manual out and see if they say anything about that.
Member
You need a fence like the INCRA that can be locked down at each end.
I don't think you would want to mess with the angle of the riving knife- it should only be as wide or ever so slightly wider than the blade/kerf and have no skew.
What could be done however is to mount something like the Jessem to the top of a slightly elongated (front to back) riving knife that mounts very securely to the saw so there is no chance it will lift up. Like the current model, the wheels would have toe-in to keep the stock riding against the fence, but also, by raising and lowering the riving knife you could very easily adjust the wheel assembly for any thickness of stock while also increasing or decreasing the amount of downward force applied by the wheels- a win-win situation (except for non-through cuts where you couldn't use it at all.
In reality the current configuration of the Jessem would be better if mounted to the top of the fence- assuming there is a T-slot on top and again assuming the fence doesn't lift- where it could be designed to handle a greater range of stock thicknesses.
Contributor
Provided you have a cast iron top, and this is for narrow pieces only, why not rig an electro magnet into the outboard tip of your fence. When you want the tip locked, flip the switch.
Member
Arrrgh... You people. I knew I shouldn't have clicked on this thread. But this does look like a really good idea, and hopefully I won't be trying to clamp feather boards in awkward positions anymore.
It's only money.
Regards,
Dick
Contributor
I am hoping this solves one of my frustrating problems... when feeding material through router table, a feather board to hold stock against fence, only works well when the opposite edge is parallel, or close to parallel... otherwise the feather board can go from too tight, sometimes binding the work piece, to no contact at all, based on the degree of non parallel the two sides are. I often cut tapers for edging and experience this problem when running 5 ft long pieces through the router table for roundovers... so I must rely on my two hands... but once you remove your hand from the work piece to re position when feeding, the stock pulls away from the fence a tiny bit, and its noticeable on the edge treatment. I considered making a set of spring loaded rollers that push the stock against the fence, but it too has limitations, unlike the Jessem product whereas the opposite side of the material becomes a non-issue.
Member
That's a really interesting idea! Maybe I can rig something up with a magswitch accessory unit, mounted to the right side of my fence rail (I never use the fence to the left of the blade).
Member
I use a square magswitch to keep my Hammer A3-31 jointer fence from moving. Works well, I will use the same magswitch if I find the tablesaw/router fence moves up with the jessem guides. Still waiting for them to arrive.
[OP]
Contributor
Sam Layton has his Beis fence set up with a switchable magnet, that works as long as the fence is on the cast iron, which for him is most of the time. Works great he says. Maybe he will give us a picture.
Rick Potter
Member
Mine showed up in the mail today. They certainly look slick!
-Nate
Contributor
[QUOTE=Will Blick;2122767]Instead of a push block for small pieces, consider this. http://www.amazon.com/Gripper-TM-200...aw+accessories
I think the problem with these on the TS would be how to anchor the far end of the fence. If they can fix that, this would be a GREAT item.
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