setup for deeper bowls?

[alex grams]

I am doing some turning and working on forms that are 5-7" wide, but at least that much in depth. However when I get to the inside corner of the bowl, it gets to an odd angle and the tools seem to chatter and material removal becomes more difficult. I mainly use the easy wood round carbide bit, but would looking at moving to a hollowing tool where the cutter is more offcenter allow me to make these cuts better and more smoothly? Or is this purely a function of tool rest position and tooling position. I can get the rest in a ways, but have to hold my hands back a decent way to avoid the top of the bowl coming in contact with my hands. The distance from rest to cut is close, but the angle of the tool to the rest is very shallow, not perpendicular, which would be optimal.

Thoughts, suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

[Michelle Rich]

maybe a toolrest that gets in closer to the area you are working? Maybe a bowl gouge? the problem is a light tool, too far off the toorest.

[Jeff Gilfor]

Yes, I too think that the tool rest is too far out. The EWT's have a tendency to chatter when out too far past the rest. Try a curved or lower profile rest that can be angled in along the left side of the inside of the bowl. You only need it to get close to the center, and not past. That should allow cuts all the way in with the tool no more than an inch or so off the rest.

[Scott Hackler]

+1 on changing to the use of a bowl gouge and a tool rest that you can move into the interior of the bowl. Far less chatter (in most all cases) when you start cutting instead of scraping.

[Michael Stafford]

What is the inside corner of a bowl?

Bowls should have smooth curves inside and out. Hollowing a bowl and coming to a right angle transition at the bottom is difficult for almost any turner. The depth and width of the bowls you are describing should result in a very rounded, almost hemispherical shape on the interior without inside corners.

It is a good idea, as others have said to have as much tool rest as possible inside the bowl to limit overhang of the tool. Generally it is recommended that 3/8" bowl gouges not hang over the tool rest more than 2 1/2"; 1/2" bowl gouges not more than 3 1/2" and 5/8" bowl gouges not more than 4". So the tool rest does not have to be inserted more than a few inches to provide the necessary support.

I don't know what size shaft the EZ wood scraper has that you are using but the same overreach or less should apply. Your results would be better with a gouge followed up with a thick French curve type scraper to remove tool marks.

[Bill Boehme]

What is the inside corner of a bowl? ....

Well, probably every newbie does it. I know that I did. I have some of my first bowls as reminders of my accomplishments back in 2004 when I first fell into the vortex. Then one day after seeing some of the really impressive work from other members in my woodturning club, it dawned on me that smooth flowing curves were both more aesthetically pleasing and easier to make. It still took a lot more practice to minimize the humps and bumps that really stick out on a glossy surface as well as maintaining a more or less uniform wall thickness.

But, to answer the original question from Alex, thr vessel sounds more like a vase or other hollowform than a bowl so perhaps it would be better to use tools specifically designed for hollowing including considering getting a hollowing rig if it is necessary for the tool to have a large overhang over the rest.

[robert baccus]

The transition area from side to bottom is a problem area for everyone. The bottom itself is also tricky. Look into "bottom feeders" which is nothing but a 70* grind on a 1/2" U shape bowl gouge. A normal gouge grind lifts the bevel off the wood at some depth and this allows a smooth controlled cut in the deeper areas with the bevel rubbing.

[alex grams]

Not a 'corner' but the transition from bottom to side, obviously a radiused transition, not a right angle, but yes where I am getting the challenge of the smooth cut.

[Steve Bistritz]

I just made up a couple of tool rest prototypes for just this reason. I will test them this weekend and put up a few pics when I do..

[Prashun Patel]

Can you post a pic of a tricky transition for you? A tightly radiused transition is always tricky, because it requires a quick pivoting of the handle to maintain a consistent presentation of the cutting edge. The 'easiest' bowls for me have a gradual transition from side to bottom; I'd be hard pressed to say where the walls end and the bottom begins on most of them.

I have a curved tool rest from Jeff Nicol that helps with this. Not only does it help me get in deep, it serves as a template for a smooth curve.

ps: roughouts on the way, bro! Do 'em proud.