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Thread: Crooked bandsaw cut

  1. #1

    Crooked bandsaw cut

    I have a new G0555 bandsaw and just cut a curve in a 6" high piece of doug fir. Blade is aftermarket 3/8" and tensioned according to instructions.

    The cut started fine (vertical) but ended skewed (fine on top of cut, way off on bottom)

    Clearly, beginner's error: Is it tensioning, wrong blade, technique, other?

    Thanks for the help.

    Ken

  2. #2
    one thing to remember is that if you try to turn so sharp that the back piece of the blade touches the wood, all bets are off and the blade will start steering.

  3. #3
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    Many use 3/8" blades for curves, but I never use more than 1/4", even more so on a 6" piece of material.

    Also, I would try more tension than is indicated on the saw.
    John Bailey
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Cohen View Post
    I have a new G0555 bandsaw and just cut a curve in a 6" high piece of doug fir. Blade is aftermarket 3/8" and tensioned according to instructions.

    The cut started fine (vertical) but ended skewed (fine on top of cut, way off on bottom)

    Clearly, beginner's error: Is it tensioning, wrong blade, technique, other?

    Thanks for the help.

    Ken
    "Fine on top, way off on bottom" - this indicates to me that you need more tension. The blade is entering the wood, and then "bunching up" while in the wood - thus the "way off" on the bottom.

    Try more tension (I'm not familiar with your particular brand of saw - but I've never met an onboard "tension gauge" which was even close to accurate).

    Best of luck to you.
    I love mankind. It's people I can't stand.

  5. #5
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    One trick is to touch a fine stone to the back of the blade corners. It rounds them a bit, and gets rid of any roughness.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  6. #6
    Inadequate blade tension.

    Erik Loza
    Minimax USA

  7. #7
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    I didn't see mention of feed-rate yet. The speed that you move the material through the cut can exaggerate this problem. Try about 1 inch per second and see if the problem reduces.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  8. #8
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    Do you mean cutting through 6" thick piece of doug fir? If so that's a LOT of materials to be cutting curves into.

  9. #9
    All of the above make sense but I dis no see anyone mentiion checking the lower blade guides, I suggest you make sure that they are correctly set as well.

  10. #10
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    When I have cutting problems with the BS the first thing I do is install a new blade, about 90% of the time it cures the problem.
    Fred

  11. #11
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    Everything said so far is logical good advice. What about checkin the table? Sure, it could very well be a lack of blade tension. However, it could very likely be that his table is not 90deg to the blade.
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Belknap View Post
    When I have cutting problems with the BS the first thing I do is install a new blade, about 90% of the time it cures the problem.
    He did say he's using an aftermarket blade though...
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

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    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  13. #13
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    I also would use a 1/4" blade for this workpiece.
    Thanx,

    shotgunn

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    More is DEFINITELY more!!!

  14. #14
    The first thing i would do is check how it cuts straight. If the blade leans on a straight cut it is usually a dull blade or tension for me. If it cuts straight fine then the curve just may be too tight for the blade.

    Also what is the tpi? If the tpi is more than 3 or 4 then you can have probs in thick materials.

  15. #15
    Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions. I'll start with higher tensioning, since that is the easiest to fix -- along with a slower feed rate. If the problem is the blade, it's a tougher call since I rarely make curved cuts in 6" of stock.

    Ken

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