Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 53

Thread: First use of Infinity Lock Miter Router bit setup tool...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, Tx
    Posts
    4,756

    First use of Infinity Lock Miter Router bit setup tool...

    It works, it really works, first time use.

    Just took some scrap out of the scrap bucket and gave it a try.

    The set up is nothing, just line up the marks and set the bit, line up the marks and set the fence and then do it.....
    You do have to measure and mark the center of you wood and that is it.

    Pros:
    Very easy to set up.

    Cons:
    There is no instruction of any type, no sheet of paper or anything. I know there is more to it because there are more marks on the tool. I watch the video and that is how I knew how to set it up.

    Wants:
    Would like to see the lines go around the corner so they are on the end of the tool.
    Would like to see some type of instruction sheet, it would not be much but some that would talk about the offset cuts.

    Here are 2 pictures of the first joint and I do mean the first, not test parts, just set it up and cut them. Now after I cut the I noticed that the inside corner was not spot on like the outside so I checked the width of the boards. One board is .740 and the other one was .756 so I think that is the reason, not the setup of the bit.
    They are not glued up, just laying on the desk.

    P5184746.jpg P5184745.jpg
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 05-19-2013 at 7:45 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Between No Where & No Place ,WA
    Posts
    1,339
    Instructions are here: http://www.infinitytools.com/PDF/Loc...r%20Manual.pdf

    Mine was shipped on Friday, so it should be here sometime next week. Anxiously awaiting its arrival to try it out.

    For Those-Not-In-The Know, see http://www.infinitytools.com/2-Pc-Lo...uctinfo/00-LMM
    Last edited by Ray Newman; 05-18-2013 at 8:07 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, Tx
    Posts
    4,756
    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Newman View Post
    Instructions are here: http://www.infinitytools.com/PDF/Loc...r%20Manual.pdf

    Mine was shipped on Friday, so it should be here sometime next week. Anxiously awaiting its arrival to try it out.

    For Those-Not-In-The Know, see http://www.infinitytools.com/2-Pc-Lo...uctinfo/00-LMM
    I have the PDF but I think they should just put it with them, they put a catalog with them.

    But that is in no way a show stopper.

  4. #4
    Thanks Bill. Good to hear it works as advertised. Just ordered mine.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Richmond, TX
    Posts
    409
    Looks nice and I am sure your experience played a big part in a successful first cut.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, Tx
    Posts
    4,756
    Quote Originally Posted by ed vitanovec View Post
    Looks nice and I am sure your experience played a big part in a successful first cut.
    Not really, I worked with the locked miter 2 years ago and put it back in the drawer. I think anyone with a router table, router and bit could do the same thing on the first cut, it is that easy.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
    Posts
    2,387
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Huber View Post
    Not really, I worked with the locked miter 2 years ago and put it back in the drawer. I think anyone with a router table, router and bit could do the same thing on the first cut, it is that easy.
    Bill, until I came up with the LMM, my bit had been in the drawer for almost 10 years!! Thanks much for the first review!

    Ray answered the question about the manual, but let me add this. Infinity is using the manual I wrote- I don't know if another one is forthcoming or not. At 14 pages and packed with diagrams, this PDF manual is as thorough as I could make it. The manual includes setups for all lock miter joints except for a special one I discovered after I wrote it- the "Double Offset Lock Miter" joint (see drawing below).

    I also wrote a two page "quick reference guide", but I don't know the status of that. As you might expect, the cost of printing, binding, and extra shipping (due to the size and weight of a 13 page printed manual) could unnecessarily add to the cost of the jig. The beauty of an online manual is that it can be easily updated.

    A couple other points:

    • Wrapped cursor lines- This one is not obvious until you closely examine the jig mounted to a bit-
      Though harder and more costly to do on two surfaces, the vertical cursor lines could have wrapped the top edge of the jig. The horizontal lines are a different story. The LMM sits at an angle and is not parallel to the axis of the bit because the shear angle of the carbide cutting edge which differs from brand to brand. A line on the vertical edge would be at an angle and would not accurately indicate the true center of the profile.

    • When finding the center, did you measure the thickness and divide by 2 to mark the center of the board? That will work but is a harder and less accurate way to do it. Page 12 of the online manual shows a simple time-tested method using a marking gauge, but you can just as easily use a depth gauge, combination square, etc. and you don't need actual dimensions. Make two fine lines by registering the "measuring" device against each face. Adjust the device until only one line results when you make marks starting from each face- it usually takes me only 2 to 3 quick attempts. (see drawings)


    Double Offset Lock Miter- leaves a rabbet that can be filled with a contrasting colored spline:



    Using a marking gauge to find the center:



    Last edited by Alan Schaffter; 05-19-2013 at 12:23 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,895
    Mine arrived on Friday. It was so small, I almost threw it out with the packaging (I had ordered something bigger in the same box). I also was surprised at no instructions. Glad I saw the link above.

    Haven't used mine yet, as I'm hot and heavy in another project. Hopefully soon. I'll post back when I do.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth, Tx
    Posts
    4,756
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Schaffter View Post

    • When finding the center, did you measure the thickness and divide by 2 to mark the center of the board?

    No, I used my 6" combo square, work just as good as the marking gauge. The centers were spot on, it was the wood that was different and that is why the inside corner did not match, the outside was spot on.

    i did go out to the shop last night and do some more with the same thickness of wood and they were fine. I even moved the bit and the fence just to screw it up and then reset it and it worked every time.

    Thanks for another great tool in the shop.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Richardson, Texas
    Posts
    214
    Bill,
    One of my favorite bits.
    Jay
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
    Posts
    2,387
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Huber View Post
    No, I used my 6" combo square, work just as good as the marking gauge. The centers were spot on, it was the wood that was different and that is why the inside corner did not match, the outside was spot on.

    i did go out to the shop last night and do some more with the same thickness of wood and they were fine. I even moved the bit and the fence just to screw it up and then reset it and it worked every time.

    Thanks for another great tool in the shop.
    Sounds great!

    Yup, if you don't notice the thicknesses of the boards are different, you'll end up with a bad joint. That is something to be aware of when mixing 3/4" hardwood faceframes with ply sides- most "3/4"" ply is anything but 3/4"! It is great to get this kind of feedback. When you get a chance, try a joint using unequal stock purposely selected. Marking is just as easy since you only need to adjust the marking gauge/square to mark the center of the thinner board, then use the same setting to make a reference mark on the thicker board. You need to remember, this joint like the offset joint, takes two settings- one for the boards on each side of the joint. Some people object to the resulting offset on the inside of that joint, but in most cases it will never be seen and it sure beats the alternatives.

    Other stuff:

    Random Tip: Some folks add just a tiny smidge of offset (a fraction of the first mark) when making the setup. That leaves a small flat as opposed to a sharp point to ride against the fence/table. As long as you don't use too much offset it works well, especially if you plan to soften the corner a little, anyway.

    Again, thanks for the kind words. Sometimes I come off sounding a bit like a braggert, but it is just the excitement of coming up with a useful tool that actually works. Initially it surprised even me that it worked so well. It was also fun discovering how it can be used for variations of the basic lock miter joint.

    Corrections to the manual. If anyone feels that any part of the instructions need clarification or correction, just send me a PM so I can look at it and send Infinity a revision if needed. Thanks.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
    Posts
    2,387
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Rasmussen View Post
    Bill,
    One of my favorite bits.
    Jay
    Jay, that is a beauty of a (tool?) cabinet!

    Something to try someday. Instead of a drawer lock joint, use your lock miter bit to make the drawer box. By using an offset lock miter joint the drawer fronts (and backs) can be cut to fit the opening, but the miter line is "shifted" around the corner to the sides which makes it harder to see and leaves a more durable edge than if the miter line was at the corner. It is kinda like a half-blind lock miter. I made a few of these joints to to ensure the LMM worked as I thought it would, but have yet to make any drawers.

    To eliminate the offset on the inside of the corner (just visible at bottom of the photo), the thickness of the sides needs to be reduced by the amount of offset on the front. Most drawers have thinner sides anyway. It works out very nicely if the front is 3/4" and a 1/4" offset is used (the LMM has four 1/16" offset reference marks)- the sides can then be a convenient and typical 1/2" thick (see SketchUp drawing.)

    Drawing of a drawer box corner. 3/4" Walnut front, 1/4" offset, 1/2" poplar drawer side:



    3/4" thick walnut drawer front, 3/4" thick poplar side, 1/8" offset:

    Last edited by Alan Schaffter; 05-19-2013 at 12:33 PM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    3,078
    With such a good review and information, I am going to order one.

    My favorite threads are one where someone has a success with something and writes a good review. It is extremely helpful.

    Thanks

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    392
    I've had an Amana lock miter bit for years and hate to admit that after a few trials it's spent most of its life in a drawer.

    In addition to time consuming process of getting a perfect set up, my understanding is that these bits are better suited to use in a shaper with a self feeder rather than a router table.

    Has Infinity come up with a breakthrough that addresses both of these issues?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
    Posts
    2,387
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Adams View Post
    I've had an Amana lock miter bit for years and hate to admit that after a few trials it's spent most of its life in a drawer.

    In addition to time consuming process of getting a perfect set up, my understanding is that these bits are better suited to use in a shaper with a self feeder rather than a router table.

    Has Infinity come up with a breakthrough that addresses both of these issues?
    Well, the LMM will work just fine with lock miter shaper cutters! Unless you are using a very large cutter on large dense stock, a shaper can safely be used without a stock feeder. Stock feeders offer advantages typically not needed in hobby woodshops. In addition to safety, they offer the ability to feed stock securely and more quickly- two things needed in a production environment. Adapters are available so router bits can be used in a shaper, but they are really designed for shaper cutters not router bits. It is a function of cutter speed- routers and router bits are typically designed to operate at faster RPMs than possible on a shaper.

    Although it can be a little intimidating at first like using any large diameter router bit, with the proper feather board(s) you'll have no problem. If you check out the Infinity Blog on Facebook you'll see it is easy and safe to make lock miter cuts in a single pass on a router table.

    I had the same concerns when I started this journey but quickly discovered that just like with any woodworking machine you should be careful, but there is no need to be afraid.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •