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Thread: HELP!!! Which hinges? Cabinet door very close to drawers.

  1. #16
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    I like the Salice conceiled hinges (Euro style). Spokane Hardware has a good selection and was easier for me to understand what I was buying. There are quite a few different styles so I think you can find something that will work whether you go with Blum, Salice or whoever.

    Nice work on the cabinet. I use a rule of thumb for face frames: 2 1/2" wide styles for the side pieces, 3" wide between doors, drawers, 2 1/2 styles between drawers, top and bottom rails 2 to 2 1/4" wide. I like 3/4" overlap and these widths look good. I think I got the dimensions from one of the cabinet books like Jim Tomplin. Anyway it works well for me.
    Thank you,

    Rich Aldrich

    65 miles SE of Steve Schlumpf.

    "To a pessimist, the glass is half empty; to an optimist, the glass is half full; to an engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be." Unknown author



  2. #17
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    I'll happily order what Jerry suggested, I just want to confirm that will work on a face frame.

    I'm just confused because it looks as though the part opposite the cup (which mounts in the door) needs to mount to the cabinet wall and NOT the side/edge of the face frame. Am I missing something? Or does it mount to the cabinet wall and goes around the face frame, "clearing" it all together?

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Aldrich View Post
    I like the Salice conceiled hinges (Euro style). Spokane Hardware has a good selection and was easier for me to understand what I was buying. There are quite a few different styles so I think you can find something that will work whether you go with Blum, Salice or whoever.

    Nice work on the cabinet. I use a rule of thumb for face frames: 2 1/2" wide styles for the side pieces, 3" wide between doors, drawers, 2 1/2 styles between drawers, top and bottom rails 2 to 2 1/4" wide. I like 3/4" overlap and these widths look good. I think I got the dimensions from one of the cabinet books like Jim Tomplin. Anyway it works well for me.
    Thanks Rich. I'll definitely consider using the wider stiles for my next project.

  4. #19
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    Lester, you need the Blum 38N model# 38N355C.08 (1/2" o'lay). This hinge will work with a minimum of 9/32" from the door edge to the drawer edge so you've room to spare.

    The 38N has a 105 degree open angle....this may create a problem of the door bumping the drawer edge when full opened to 105 degrees. Blum solved this problem with a newer version that not only accepts a restrictor clip that limits the open angle to 89 degrees, but it also has a soft close feature which your daughter may prefer anyway. Unfortunately my Blum catalog is a few years old and doesn't have this new hinge. I strongly encourage you to call Blum technical support at 800 438-6788 and ask for the soft close version of the model I provided above as well as the part number of the restrictor. The Blum folks are extremely knowledgable and will get you dialed in to the right hinge for your application.

    Very nice cabinet by the way....she's gonna love it!

    Edit: I just located an updated catalog that has the 38N Bluemotion soft close with the optional restriction clip. The 1/2" o'lay hinge part# is 38N355B.08. The optional 86 degree restriction clip is part# 38C315B3.

    http://www.cshardware.com/b-38n355b-08.html

    http://www.cshardware.com/catalogsea...lt/?q=38c315b3
    Last edited by scott vroom; 04-13-2013 at 10:51 PM.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lester Sak View Post
    I'll happily order what Jerry suggested, I just want to confirm that will work on a face frame.

    I'm just confused because it looks as though the part opposite the cup (which mounts in the door) needs to mount to the cabinet wall and NOT the side/edge of the face frame. Am I missing something? Or does it mount to the cabinet wall and goes around the face frame, "clearing" it all together?
    Look at Jerry's second link (http://www.cabinetparts.com/media/pd...lip-hinges.pdf) and scroll all the way down to p/n 175L6030. You'll see that it mounts to the inside edge of the face frame. The hinge (Jerry's first link in that post) snaps onto the mounting plate.

  6. #21
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    Easy - make those two big doors into bi-fold doors. No hinge needed on the drawer side.

    The time I did that I used polished cast brass hinges on the fixed side and between the two doors. The hinges are simple 2 x 2 1/2 (or something like that). It worked out perfectly with an even reveal all around.

    Another possible choice are no mortise hinges. I've bought those at Rockler.
    Last edited by John Piwaron; 04-14-2013 at 10:31 AM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
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    Central NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    Lester, you need the Blum 38N model# 38N355C.08 (1/2" o'lay). This hinge will work with a minimum of 9/32" from the door edge to the drawer edge so you've room to spare.

    The 38N has a 105 degree open angle....this may create a problem of the door bumping the drawer edge when full opened to 105 degrees. Blum solved this problem with a newer version that not only accepts a restrictor clip that limits the open angle to 89 degrees, but it also has a soft close feature which your daughter may prefer anyway. Unfortunately my Blum catalog is a few years old and doesn't have this new hinge. I strongly encourage you to call Blum technical support at 800 438-6788 and ask for the soft close version of the model I provided above as well as the part number of the restrictor. The Blum folks are extremely knowledgable and will get you dialed in to the right hinge for your application.

    Very nice cabinet by the way....she's gonna love it!

    Edit: I just located an updated catalog that has the 38N Bluemotion soft close with the optional restriction clip. The 1/2" o'lay hinge part# is 38N355B.08. The optional 86 degree restriction clip is part# 38C315B3.

    http://www.cshardware.com/b-38n355b-08.html

    http://www.cshardware.com/catalogsea...lt/?q=38c315b3
    Scott, thanks for taking the time to post all the information. I do like that hinge as it's made for face frame mounting, but I think I'd be better off with the smaller minimum reveal needed for the hinge Jerry suggested.

    This would allow my drawer faces to be installed closer to being centered on the drawers rather than having to mount them as far over to the right to provide a large enough reveal. But I may try these on the smaller door where that's not a concern. This way, I'll have experience with both hinge styles and might be able to answer a question about them myself down the road

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by David L Morse View Post
    Look at Jerry's second link (http://www.cabinetparts.com/media/pd...lip-hinges.pdf) and scroll all the way down to p/n 175L6030. You'll see that it mounts to the inside edge of the face frame. The hinge (Jerry's first link in that post) snaps onto the mounting plate.
    Mark/Jerry,

    I think this is my last question... Using the hinge and plate suggested, won't only a portion of the hinge inside the cabinet make contact to the inside edge of the face frame, extending beyond the face frame inside the cabinet? Seems like a part of the hinge would just be "hanging" off the edge. See diagram below:

    overhang.JPG

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Piwaron View Post
    Easy - make those two big doors into bi-fold doors. No hinge needed on the drawer side.

    The time I did that I used polished cast brass hinges on the fixed side and between the two doors. The hinges are simple 2 x 2 1/2 (or something like that). It worked out perfectly with an even reveal all around.

    Another possible choice are no mortise hinges. I've bought those at Rockler.
    Thanks for the suggestion John, but I've come this far with this method and want to see it through, lol.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lester Sak View Post
    Mark/Jerry,

    I think this is my last question... Using the hinge and plate suggested, won't only a portion of the hinge inside the cabinet make contact to the inside edge of the face frame, extending beyond the face frame inside the cabinet? Seems like a part of the hinge would just be "hanging" off the edge.
    Yes, part of the hinge/mounting plate assembly "hangs off the edge" ---you can fill the space with wood if you like (in which case you can add another mounting screw at the back of the plate)---but I usually let them "hang." (there are two screws into the face frame---enough to carry the load without issues IME)

    Maybe you should know that the "Euro-style" hinges (like the Blum) were originally designed for the "32mm" system of cabinet-making---a system that doesn't use face-frames---and the hinges were (and are) mounted to plates that are attached to the side panels of the cabinet. But many of us here in the US use a "hybrid" system of cabinet-making that incorporates both "Euro-style" hardware and face-frame construction. The face-frame mounting plates (and the face-frame hinges like the 38N) were designed to accommodate us---it's a sort of compromise between the true "32mm" system and "traditional" face-frame construction.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Miner View Post
    Yes, part of the hinge/mounting plate assembly "hangs off the edge" ---you can fill the space with wood if you like (in which case you can add another mounting screw at the back of the plate)---but I usually let them "hang." (there are two screws into the face frame---enough to carry the load without issues IME)

    Maybe you should know that the "Euro-style" hinges (like the Blum) were originally designed for the "32mm" system of cabinet-making---a system that doesn't use face-frames---and the hinges were (and are) mounted to plates that are attached to the side panels of the cabinet. But many of us here in the US use a "hybrid" system of cabinet-making that incorporates both "Euro-style" hardware and face-frame construction. The face-frame mounting plates (and the face-frame hinges like the 38N) were designed to accommodate us---it's a sort of compromise between the true "32mm" system and "traditional" face-frame construction.
    BINGO! That's what I needed to know Jerry. I wanted to make sure I understood what I was looking at. I did know alittle about Euro style hinges before I started this, but wasn't aware people adapted them to face frames. I'll get the exact part numbers you recommended and give them a shot.

    Thank you and everyone else who chimed in on this thread for helping me with this!

    Les

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Jolliffe View Post
    Nice job on the cabinet. The compact hinges don't come with the screws to mount them. If you picked the clip top you would have to order the mounting plate too. These are not the same hinges Jerry was talking about. I just use Blum hinges & slides. The compact hinge has it's uses but I never use them because they don't give you all the adjustment the clip top's do.
    Jay, the compact 38N has 3-way adjustment, same as the clip top.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  13. #28
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    Lester, either hinge is a good choice for you. I prefer compact because of their smaller footprint inside the cabinet....less intrusion, but Jerry is correct in that the 120 degree clip top will allow a smaller reveal.

    Good luck and post pics of the finished cabinet!


    Quote Originally Posted by Lester Sak View Post
    Scott, thanks for taking the time to post all the information. I do like that hinge as it's made for face frame mounting, but I think I'd be better off with the smaller minimum reveal needed for the hinge Jerry suggested.

    This would allow my drawer faces to be installed closer to being centered on the drawers rather than having to mount them as far over to the right to provide a large enough reveal. But I may try these on the smaller door where that's not a concern. This way, I'll have experience with both hinge styles and might be able to answer a question about them myself down the road
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    Lester, either hinge is a good choice for you. I prefer compact because of their smaller footprint inside the cabinet....less intrusion, but Jerry is correct in that the 120 degree clip top will allow a smaller reveal.

    Good luck and post pics of the finished cabinet!
    Thanks again Scott and I will post photos when I'm done.

    I just caught another problem that I didn't consider. My stiles are only 1.5" wide, so both of those hinges would be too large. I had placed my order with cabinetparts.com last night, but just called them to explain. I will be trying the Blum mini hinges instead as they only require a 26 mm hole.

    I've definitely learned alot from this project and going forward have a better idea of how to design the doors and to consider the hardware I want to use when planning.

  15. #30
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    He, he he....never thought of asking how wide the stiles are! How thick are your stiles? Looks like for the mini clip, a 3/4" thick FF, and a 1/2" o'lay you'd need a 3MM boring distance and a 0 height plate, which would give you a 3MM reveal, well within your tolerance.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

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