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Thread: Davis and Wells 20" Bandsaw Restoration

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  1. #1

    Cool Davis and Wells 20" Bandsaw Restoration

    Hello everyone! Please see my first thread to bring you up to speed.

    So it's taken a few months to get back around to restoring this old boy. I still don't quite have the funds I'd like, but I think I'm going to go for it. I'm going to be moving at the end of this month and figure it's a good excuse to take the saw apart. .

    Here's what I'm thinking (and in the order that I'm thinking it):

    - Wheels off. Send for volcanizing/balancing
    - Take saw apart. Consider repainting. If so, sandblast (have never done this).
    - Order all replacement parts. Definitely need new guide blocks and bearings.
    - Repair hole below table (see pics above). Hopefully my metalworker buddy can do this for me.
    - Possibly regrind/flatten table and repair pitting in mitre slot.
    - Paint (have a spray gun, but never used it. My compressor is small but should suffice)
    - Moving. Re-assemble saw at new garage.
    - 3hp 3ph motor and VFD. Unsure about matching frame types and shaft diameters. Also not sure if motor RPM is a concern if I'll be using a VFD. Also considering a 5hp setup as per Dan at D&W recommends. Can't seem to find these things as cheap as people say. . .
    - Driftmaster fence system, or an original if I can find one.
    - Carbide blade(s)
    - Make much dust!

    PLEASE let me know what you guys think! This will be my first full restoration and I've got a commission to start building mid-May, so this has to happen quickly. Your thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

    -Jeff
    Last edited by Jeff Carmi; 04-08-2013 at 3:57 PM.
    When a dog runs at you, whistle for him. - Thoreau

  2. #2

    Exclamation NEED MOTOR ADVISE - NEMA Insulation Classes - SALE AUCTION ENDING SOON

    I'm concerned about the CLASS B rating on a new 5 HP Baldor 3 PH. Could be a good deal, but is it worth waiting for a CLASS F? I'm definitely going with a VFD and am hoping that the overload protection will keep me safe from overheating. I realize it's also about longevity but I think 10's of 1000's of hours, when kept at proper temps, should be enough

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulation_system

    http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ne...ses-d_734.html
    When a dog runs at you, whistle for him. - Thoreau

  3. #3
    I would check on the price of a VFD that is rated for 5hp before you choose a motor. VFD's up to 3hp are cheap if you are running single phase input. IF you want to run a VFD for a 5hp with single phase input the price goes way up.

    Start with bearings and tires and go from there. Everything else can be done at a later time.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,277
    Hi, the class B insulation is an indication that it's a cool running motor, as the insulation is chosen to match the temperatures expected.

    Class F is higher, however the motor will probably be a hotter running motor.

    With a VFD, motor overheating is possible even if the motor doesn't run at more than rated current, if the motor is run at low speeds for a significant time period. This is because the amount of air the fan forces over/through the motor for cooling is significantly reduced.

    For a bandsaw, you're probably just using the VFD as a single to three phase converter and will run the motor at rated speed, so no cooling issues.

    3HP is a lot of power for a bandsaw, I would stick with the existing 3 HP motor and gain some experience as to whether it's enough.

    Regards, Rod.

    P.s. Last year I made a bandsaw mill with an electric motor, 3 HP was plenty for up to 20 inch deep cuts.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,323
    5 hp is likely more than you need. I've got an older Laguna LT16HD with a 2 hp motor. The resaw height is 12". I use it a lot, in hardwood, and it has never bogged down. I resaw with carbide blades, which make kerfs that are .05" wide or less. You're just not removing much material with a kerf that thin, so big power isn't necessary.

  6. #6

    Wink 5HP Motor

    Thanks for the replies!

    So I sealed the deal on a brand new 5 HP Baldor for $150. After several conversations with Dan at D&W I started leaning towards a more hefty motor. I know it's overkill but I'll be happy knowing my saw will never bog down.

    The Teco VFD's are well priced. (http://www.factorymation.com/Products/7300CV_230V/). Considering the difference in price between a 3 HP and 10 HP VFD (which I would need to run 1 phase in/3 phase out) is fairly proportionate to their respective power ratings, I don't think the power jump is unreasonably expensive.

    For the time being though, I may try to build a rotary converter and live without the VFD for a while. That way, when the time comes, I can get a 5 HP VFD and have 3 PH power available for other machines. If anyone knows good resources for building a rotary phase converter please let me know!


    Will be breaking the saw down today and making a trip to see Dan at D&W. He's really helpful and has offered to give me a "lesson" on this saw. I'm having him vulcanize and balance the wheels, so he's also offered to lend me his puller.

    Stay tuned for pics and updates. STOKED!

    -Jeff
    Last edited by Keith Outten; 08-26-2013 at 6:26 AM.
    When a dog runs at you, whistle for him. - Thoreau

  7. #7
    For the Factorymation VFD anything over 3hp requires three phase input. Just an Fyi. There is another company that will sell a higher hp single phase input VFD and the information is in the Moak bandsaw thread I believe.

    The cool thing is you have Dan to help you out if you have any questions.

  8. #8

    Unhappy One Step forward. . . Guess not. . .

    So many phone calls. . .

    AC Tech makes a 1/3 PH IN, 5 HP VFD for about $520 (SCF250Y). Not too bad. However. . .

    After talking with Don at Lenze Americas I am convinced that the Class B rating of this 5 HP Baldor is not a good choice when run through an inverter (VFD or other). I also spoke with tech support at Baldor and they said the same thing. The Class B won't tolerate voltage spikes and variances in RPM that a Class F will when using a VFD, even if I keep it at constant speed, but especially when slowing it down.

    I won't' be buying that motor now, but I may still stick with 5 HP. I guess it's back to craigslist/ebay for me. . .
    When a dog runs at you, whistle for him. - Thoreau

  9. #9
    Jeff,

    If you have time visit Vintagemachinery.org for pictures in the photo index. Another option is to join Owwm.org and place in add in the Boyd section for a 5hp motor.

  10. #10
    Thanks, Robert!

    Those sites have been in my bookmarks for a while now, but never used them for trade. I'll give it a shot.
    When a dog runs at you, whistle for him. - Thoreau

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    SE Pa.
    Posts
    142
    Dear Jeff: I have the same saw as you, I never thought 3hp was not enough. What are you cutting that you think you need more?
    As for the org. fence, my saw came with one and I sold it last year, just wasn't what I was looking for, plus you had to remove the rail to change the blade. The Laguna might be a good choice.

    Steve

  12. #12
    Hi Steve,

    At this point I'm sort-of letting fate decide what motor I go with. 5HP is overkill and almost cost-prohibitive (because of the VFD), so I'll probably end up with 3HP. I'm having trouble finding 3 phase motors for cheap. I was under the impression that industrial shops let these thing go for practically free. . .

    As far as the fence goes I'm still leaning towards the Laguna, despite their reputation. What fence system are you using, and how happy are you with it?

    Thanks!
    When a dog runs at you, whistle for him. - Thoreau

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