Color fill curved glass

[Josh Jackson]

Hello everyone. I have seen various posts on color filling and debates on taping but none that specifically answer my questions. I am engraving some slightly curved wine glasses. The issue is trying to color fill the lettering. I have used tack paper both as a full piece wrapping around the glass and as small strips so the tape doesn't wrinkle on either side of the bulge of the glass. Either method has resulted in it's own set of issues. I also have been trying rub n buff with mixed results. It very easily comes out when I lightly buff, despite the various types of buffers I have used. So does anyone have a recommendation for how to engrave/mark the glass and fill it in properly? Thank you in advance.

[Craig Matheny]

Hello everyone. I have seen various posts on color filling and debates on taping but none that specifically answer my questions. I am engraving some slightly curved wine glasses. The issue is trying to color fill the lettering. I have used tack paper both as a full piece wrapping around the glass and as small strips so the tape doesn't wrinkle on either side of the bulge of the glass. Either method has resulted in it's own set of issues. I also have been trying rub n buff with mixed results. It very easily comes out when I lightly buff, despite the various types of buffers I have used. So does anyone have a recommendation for how to engrave/mark the glass and fill it in properly? Thank you in advance.

I have used Rub and Buff for years on stuff that I had to color the biggest issue is it does not like wide fonts nice thin lines it does great on and the buffing I only used a rag to buff it out and it was fine. So the question what font are you using?

[Josh Jackson]

Craig, I have used various scripts. This last one was Annabel Script font. Can you tell me your process of when you put the rub n buff on, how long you let it sit (if at all), and just any old rag? I know I must be missing something, but am unsure what. Thank you for the tip about wide fonts, because I have tried those.

[john swank]

How durable is that on glass? Does it wear off after several washings?

[Kathy Madan]

I let it sit until almost dry or at least tacky. Then buff it off with a pair of nylons. Thinner fonts work best, wide frosted areas don't really fill. When I diamond engrave them and fill, it works best and will stand up to hand washing but not really well in the dishwasher.

[Craig Matheny]

+1 to Kathy

[Josh Jackson]

Wow thanks Kathy. Never thought of nylons. Yeah. I am searching and toying with things for more permanent fill since I have had some requests for wedding items. Typically I'd like those to last for the couple.

[Craig Matheny]

Just to let you know Josh the rub and buff is what Things Remembered in the malls use so I am pretty sure there are not a lot of choices out there

[Mike Null]

But keep in mind that Kathy is using a diamond to engrave, as is Things Remembered. They get a bit deeper and more uniform cut than with the laser.

[Dan Hintz]

If you want things to be permanent, Rub-n-Buff isn't the appropriate material. In some circumstances it can be pretty tough, but in others it can end up disappearing quite quickly (i.e., dishwasher)... it is just a wax, after all. If you want permanency, you should consider an enamel of some form.

[Mike Null]

I wonder if anybody has experimented with the bake on paint from the craft stores.

[Josh Jackson]

I did some further digging and found that some people are using an actual glass paint. It's used by manufacturers of stained glass windows and you can get them at Hobby Lobby. Though I am just starting to experiment with them. I'll have to repost to show how they stand up. I'm 3 months in the Biz so, learning a lot quickly.

---

Be Right, Be Kind, Be Fearless - JJ the Jet

[Braden Todd]

I have been trying to figure out the color fill issue for years!

If you are just lasering, I would try Thermark (cermark for glass) I used it with pretty decent results and I think there are some limited color options.

I also sandblast glass so to fill that I use two options based on budgets. The cheapest is using Montana Gold spray paint, made to be a long lasting graffiti paint. The better option is to set up an airbrush and use One Shot lettering enamel. The One Shot takes 24hrs to dry enough to clean up, but it is very durable once set up. I even tried it on lasered items and it held pretty well even though there wasn't a lot of depth to the engraving.

You will need to mask your pieces for the paint but it may work well for you if the paint has fully dried.

Good luck!

[Josh Jackson]

Thanks Braden. I actually have done custom airbrushing before so I have a 30 gallon tank in my office. 10' from the engraver. (yeah it's noisy) I haven't heard of either of those, but I will check them out. You have a recommendation on masking? I'm using Medium tack Presto right now, great for flats, but major wrinkling pain even for slight curves.

[Bill Cunningham]

I find that normal etching sizes on glass and filled with R&B will last 20-30 cycles in a 140deg. dishwasher. I have some test pieces here that have been through 40-50 dishwasher cycles, and the gold is faded, but still there. I buy R&B in bulk, usually 25 tubes at a time. Bulk cost has been around $2.50 per tube (no packaging). If you use it on granite, you can wipe on a coat of nufinish car polish to protect it from the elements.