Coping Sled Dilemma

[Michael Heffernan]

Another nice feature about the Infinity sled is that you can use it in the miter slot on your table if you have one, or let it ride along the fence. The lexan safety visor acutally referenced the fence, keeping the base offset from the fence and bit. I use it both ways.

[Stew Hagerty]

I also looked at both a while back and would have gone with the Infinity mainly because it seemed less bulky. But I ended copying the Woodpeckers because it was easier to build. It works great and I have not had any issues with the star knobs. However, if purchasing I would go with the Infinity.

There are plans available online for the Infinity: http://www.wwgoa.com/articles/projec...e-coping-sled/

Thanks for the link to plans Cyrus but, like I said, I'm in a buying mood. The materials I'd want to use would cost enough that I'm just going to go ahead and buy one.

So why, if you were purchasing, would you choose the Infinity?

And, did you vote?

[Stew Hagerty]

Attachment 258905

Aigner make a nice coping jig, available from several sources.............Rod.

OK... That thing is just weird.

[Mark Bolton]

No idea about phenolic, aluminium plate, lexan, and whatever else. And its not flashy by any means, and the two sleds you post are not all that pricey, but,...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8.../IMG_00019.jpg

Made out of scraps of MDF and hardwood, two destaco clamps (25 bucks?), a scrap of aluminium, and an adhesive backed rule I had in the cabinet (another 10 bucks)...

No cranking of hand clamps down to the work piece, no aluminum/phenolic/etc., super fast, a bit crude and in need of some refinement but Ive been using this jig for a looong time and its made a good bit of money for the shop.

Im not bragging because this is not all that fast.. seven hours, one man, complete with panels (all narrow doors so no glue ups of course), coped of course on that jig, arches on two others...

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u.../IMG_00020.jpg

I run the above jig on a shaper, if it were for a router table Id be building something simple and putting the money towards something else, but thats just me.

The phenlolic, aluminium, taps, tap drills, blah blah blah, is all nice, but its not essential.

[Rod Sheridan]

OK... That thing is just weird.

Sometimes seeing is believing.............I've used them and they work very well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urmz_cpHsH0

Regards, Rod.

[Bill Wyko]

Lifetime warranty on the Woodpecker, don't know about the other one.

[Mark Bolton]

Sometimes seeing is believing.............I've used them and they work very well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urmz_cpHsH0

Regards, Rod.

Why you gotta go and do something like that? Can you really tell me why? No one needs to see that..

Unreal...

My only issue is I like a full cut on both ends referenced off a stop or rule when I cope so I cut my rails 3/16" long and use a stop. I made my doors referencing off the fence just like that for a long time with no real issue.

Someday,.. someday.. someday.. If I keep saying it maybe one day it will come true..

[Patrick McCarthy]

Rod, the Aigner is, indeed, very nice. I have one and it was obviously operator error (89 degrees) when I attached the guide block . . . . which is why i am thinking i might do better referencing off the miter slot . . . or getting an Aigner "finger" fence . . . . or an outboard fence . . . . . or maybe an euro slider . . . . or maybe just shoot myself.

[Alan Bienlein]

Cost about $5. Scrap piece of plywood and a scrap piece of solid wood for a backer. Just as accurate as any store bought one and it's been in use since 2008 there abouts.
4-2-2011 005.JPG

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Thanks for the link to plans Cyrus but, like I said, I'm in a buying mood. The materials I'd want to use would cost enough that I'm just going to go ahead and buy one.

So why, if you were purchasing, would you choose the Infinity?

And, did you vote?

Simply because it is less bulky. The base plate, I believe, is also aluminum and thinner. the one thing i do like better about the WP is that you can center the clamp directly over the workpiece. however, I am not sure it makes much of a difference.

[Alan Bienlein]

WOW I just looked up the pricing on those sleds. Gotta say if you want to spend that kind of money who am I to recommend a better more cost efficient alternative. I didn't vote as I wouldn't spend that kind of money on a coping sled and you don't have a choice that fits what I use.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Stew,

Here are some photos of the WP clone I made - just to help you reference what it looks like. The one thing that both the Infinity and the WP have over the less expensive ones is that they both ride the fence from above. This protects the base from getting cut by the blade.

Anyway, I do like it a lot but do not think I personally would not have spent what each product demands. Mine cost me less than $30.

01.jpg02.jpg03.jpg04.jpg05.jpg

[Jeff Duncan]

There have been a couple other threads on coping sleds and I always go shop built, I know that's not what your looking for, but you don't need most of the materials you listed to make a sled. I've built many kitchens using a sled made up of scraps of mdf and 2 toggle clamps. My feeling is the shiny toys they sell for doing basic jobs are so ridiculously much more expensive than they need to be, I could never justify one. But if you just gotta spend some money....I'd say flip a coin, they're probably equally mediocre

good luck,
JeffD

[Stephen Cherry]

Well, since I have the Incra table I can do either. I have standard 3/4" T-slot and I also have a super accurately adjustable fence.

Then the first thing to do is make the decision.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Then the first thing to do is make the decision.

I would vote for referencing the fence. MHO - but setting the jig perfectly square with the slot is more tedious than the fence. The fence does not have to be square to anything.