Walnut sensitivity

[David Wadstrup]

Hi,

I just thought of another question... I've heard of people become sensitized to walnut. I'm a handtool only woodworker, so have less dust to deal with in my life than those using power tools. Still, I was wondering if you'd suggest wearing a mask when planing and working with walnut.

Thanks,

David

[David Weaver]

Not until you're actually sensitive to it. You could be sensitized to anything (walnut, pine, ...), but you'll have yourself feeling awfully warm in the meantime if you try to wear a mask while planing.

[Karl Andersson]

To the first David W: if you already have allergies and/or sensitivities to plant-based allergens, it would make sense to protect yourself "reasonably' - but sensitivities and allergies can be to specific plants/ wood, so you'd have to work with each before knowing. Sensitivity can develop immediately or, more likely, after several exposures. If you already have significant allergic responses to plants, it probably isn't worth the risk though. Fortunately in the neander tool process, inhaling the wood particles isn't likely unless you sand (or energeticllay shave sub-thou ribbons off the wood and inhale the shaving as Jim Koepke showed us once), so your most common exposure to the irritants will be skin contact.

The most comfortable protection from skin contact is a barrier cream designed for chemical protection. You rub it on your hands and forearms (or wear sleeves) and it dries to a non-slippery protective film that doesn't wear off easily. No, it isn't like putting Elmer's glue on your fingers in school - it is not even noticeable once it dries. Cleanup is usually soap and water. There are several manufacturers; look for the creams designed for working environments and chemicals, not the ones for protection from body fluids in a medical environment. If the cream doesn't help, then you need gloves, but they always get in the way of good feedback from your tools on fine work.

As the second David W points out, non-powered filter respirators are uncomfortable and furthermore can pose a serious threat to your health under certain conditions, especially if you plan to wear them for hours. Unless you know you have developed a sensitivity, will be producing airborne dust, and have assurance from your doctor that your cardio-pulmonary system can handle the stress, avoid wearing a simple filter respirator except for short periods of time. Or get a powered filter respirator or helmet like some turners do.

[Jim Matthews]

If you're concerned about airborne allergens, a room air filter is a reasonable precaution.

My fingers discolor in contact with walnut and cherry, but there's no discomfort or dermititis.
I'm likely to buy one of those washable cloth masks sold by the Japan woodworker
and build a dedicated sanding station for the occasional sanding I do.

That's the real source of airborne dust in a confined shop - the sanding block.
It's worse yet if you use a motorized sander. Those things spew clouds!

[glenn bradley]

I can whip up more dust with hand tools than some power tools so don't go with the idea that this is black and white. I see a lot of lathe folks dismiss respirators because they're making "curlies". Hope their medical is paid up ;-) I work with a lot of walnut and while I don't power sand much, I can easily create enough spoil in the air with a cabinet scraper to well deserve a respirator. Walnut can really light some people up. African mahogany is my nemesis I pretty much wear a respirator whenever I am making a piece of wood a different shape regardless of type. If I don't I generally pay with a headache, earache, sinus pressure, etc. If I am power sanding of ripping lumber down on the tablesaw a resiprator is a definite. The spoil from those activities can knock me out of a day at work if I don't protect myself ;-)

P.s. I have a cyclone for most tools and a souped up bagger for the jointer. I still wear additional protection.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

A lot of the dust from handtools depends on what you start with for lumber, as well - I kick up a lot of dust when I initially start surfacing rough lumber by hand, depending on the surface I start with. Sawing by hand is makes a dusty mess, but it doesn't seem to get airborne. But since I work in my living quarters more or less, it's become readily apparent that hand-tool woodworking isn't as dust free as some would like to believe - the fine layer of dust that I have to clean off of everything in the back room is a testament to that. Certainly it's nothing like what I would be cleaning if I was sanding (I don't really ever sand much anymore) or running power tools, but there's enough that I've taken to making covers for a lot of my things (like my amps) that are also in the room that serves as the work room.

[Jim Matthews]

But since I work in my living quarters more or less, it's become readily apparent that hand-tool woodworking isn't as dust free as some would like to believe -

There's another thread in this - real world shop solutions for small living spaces.
I think there would be more making their own furniture if they saw the possibilities.

I know a couple Manhattanites that manage in what amounts to a broom closet.
(And yes, they complain of the dust on everything.)

[Deane Allinson]

Walnut has never bothered me, but any rosewood will send me to the Doctor for steroid shots. I wouldn't worry about the walnut dust issue too much in hand work. You will pick up the most from cross-cutting with fine tooth saws. Not much if any from a plane if your tool is sharp. The most irritating thing about walnut is the staining on your hands. I'm not the one to answer this with authority since I rarely use a dust mask because it impedes my smoking.