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Thread: Saw plate pitting

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Knob Noster, MO
    Posts
    204

    Saw plate pitting

    Yesterday while rust hunting I found a Disston D-8 thumb hole rip saw for $4. The tote was in great shape, the plate was straight and looked full width...but was covered in rust. I put it in an electrolosysis bath andbremoved all of the rust. This revealed light pitting on theventire surface, nothing heavy though. Since rip saws are filed with no fleam is pitting as big a concern as on a crosscut saw? Thanks for any comments.

    Cody

  2. #2
    It will have little effect on how well a rip saw cuts. It's toxic on crosscut saws if the pitting is anything but the lightest, but to find a good straight D8 thumbhole for $4...you've done very well.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Knob Noster, MO
    Posts
    204
    That was what I was thinking. It is from 1917-40 era and it is cleaning up nicely. I have resharpened it and wiped a few coats of danish oil on the tote then I will give it a test run.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Burlington, Vermont
    Posts
    2,443
    Dave - does the "toxic" only apply to crosscut saws when the pitting extends down to the teeth, or would you find it a concern in general? An issue only in saws where you're hoping for a finish cut, or rougher crosscuts as well? Your answer is important here - it might help me justify more tool purchases and rust hunting.
    " Be willing to make mistakes in your basements, garages, apartments and palaces. I have made many. Your first attempts may be poor. They will not be futile. " - M.S. Bickford, Mouldings In Practice

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Williamstown,ma
    Posts
    996
    If your plate is straight, pitting has no effect unless at the cutting edge . I have a few old saws with light pitting, and actually think they saw better- less surface area to contact, as I like minimal set.

  6. #6
    Yeah, at the teeth and anywhere you plan for the teeth to be in the future. As peter said, if the pitting is up the plate near the spine or something and the saw is still straight, it's just cosmetic.

    crosscut saws that have clean plates are still generally more reasonable than a big ripper, so I personally would stick to plates that are clean (dark's fine) on crosscut saws.

  7. Quote Originally Posted by Cody Cantrell View Post
    Yesterday while rust hunting I found a Disston D-8 thumb hole rip saw for $4. The tote was in great shape, the plate was straight and looked full width...but was covered in rust. I put it in an electrolosysis bath andbremoved all of the rust. This revealed light pitting on theventire surface, nothing heavy though. Since rip saws are filed with no fleam is pitting as big a concern as on a crosscut saw? Thanks for any comments.

    Cody
    Pitting is not good for any saw. Pitting at the tips/edges of any saw - rip or crosscut is not good. If you plan on getting into hand tool woodworking in a big way don't use pitted steel on any tool at any time. Ripping is the hardest work you'll do in a hand tool woodshop. Don't do it with pockmarked steel. The fact that the saw cost $4 has no bearing on anything. Use it to learn sharpening and restoration then unload it and get a saw with clean plate. You deserve a clean saw. When you are 40 or so inches into a rip cut on 8/4 Ash or Maple remember what Ole Charlie told you. The best saw money can buy won't feel sharp enough. You can trust me on this.

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