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Thread: New Unisaw stop adjustment

  1. #16
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    Alan,
    Jonathan said that his saw is close but not close enough. If his Wixey is saying 89.9 and the Wixey is accurate to .1 degree, his saw could be at 90 degrees. He is chasing .1 degree for no reason. That is what I am saying. In another post I said that .1 degrees add up if you are doing multiple sided ojects. You agreed with that so I'm sure where your issue is. .1 degree on a 3/4" board edge is insignificant. .1 degree across a 3 1/2" edge is a bad joint. different strokes for different folks. I will stick with and engineer square for setup.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk View Post
    Alan,
    Jonathan said that his saw is close but not close enough. If his Wixey is saying 89.9 and the Wixey is accurate to .1 degree, his saw could be at 90 degrees. He is chasing .1 degree for no reason. That is what I am saying. In another post I said that .1 degrees add up if you are doing multiple sided objects. You agreed with that so I'm sure where your issue is. .1 degree on a 3/4" board edge is insignificant. .1 degree across a 3 1/2" edge is a bad joint. different strokes for different folks. I will stick with and engineer square for setup.
    My issue is with statements that aren't accurate or are based on not understanding how to use a device properly e.g setting a bevel angle by zeroing the Wixey to a blade that has been set with a stop, rather than zeroing the Wixey to the table top.

    Also, just because a device is "accurate to .1°" doesn't mean it isn't really accurate to .05°. Frankly that level of precision is tough to measure with a square, and nearly impossible if you are setting a bevel to anything but 90° or 45°. I've done it both ways for years, but I find the Wixey to be quicker, easier and just as accurate for all my bevel sawing.

    There are two issues in this thread- setting the stops and setting the bevel angle. The Wixey is appropriate and accurate enough for both- certainly more accurate than using a Mk 1 Mod 0 eyeball and the saw's angle scale.

    You never explained how you set the bevel angle for a multi-sided or coopered project. You can't use the stops nor a square, so unless you attempt to use the angle scales on the saw which are notoriously inaccurate and where the width of the cursor/pointer can result in .2° or more error, your choices are an analog or digital protractor or a Wixey angle gauge- my choice: a Wixey angle gauge.

    As far as precisely adjusting the stops without a Wixey, a better way (to check both the 90° and 45° stops) is to rip two thick pieces, flip one over, then hold both on a flat surface with beveled edges together to see if they are parallel and will mate with zero gap. Any error will be doubled and be easier so see than if using a square. e.g. if the 90° stop is .2° off, when one board is flipped the bevel angles will be 89.8° and 90.2°, a .4° difference, which will be easy to see.

    Just because people have their own way of doing things, that in itself doesn't necessarily make one right or wrong or better.

  3. #18
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    Alan,
    I'm not going to argue with somebody that just wants to argue. I already said I get my angle in the ballpark and then do test cuts to dial it in. You even quoted me so I don't know why you say I did't state how I set up my angels. I also said to each his own, so if you like the Wixey then so be it. If I recall you get Wixey stuff for free or are paid to push them. That fine. I have one in my drawer. I haven't used it in years. I prefer a square. If Wixey is accurate to better then .1 then why don't they state it? They would be the leader in accuracy and could charge more. I'm done with this thread. HAND.

    Jonathan,
    I hope you got your problem solved.

    Cary

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk View Post
    Alan,
    I'm not going to argue with somebody that just wants to argue. I already said I get my angle in the ballpark and then do test cuts to dial it in. You even quoted me so I don't know why you say I did't state how I set up my angels. I also said to each his own, so if you like the Wixey then so be it. If I recall you get Wixey stuff for free or are paid to push them. WRONG! I have absolutely no connection to Wixey That fine. I have one in my drawer. I haven't used it in years. I prefer a square. If Wixey is accurate to better then .1 then why don't they state it? They would be the leader in accuracy and could charge more. I'm done with this thread. HAND.

    Jonathan,
    I hope you got your problem solved.

    Cary
    I'm trying to learn something, not trying to argue. Say you want to make a multi-sided or coopered box, I just want to know how you use a square to "dial in" a bevel angle of 22.5° (for an 8-sided box) or 36° (for a 5-sided box)? I suppose you could use the TS scale to bevel two boards at 22.5° and see if they create a 45° angle when joined, and play around dialing it in, if they don't. But what do you do with 36°? I would think a precision protractor might be a better tool in this case.

  5. #20
    My thread took on a life of its own. I tried a 4mm and that did the trick. I can't believe something like that can be wrong in a manual. Delta unfortunately has lost some of their edge; it's been quite an experience buying and setting up the saw. I plan to use both a wixey and a square. Both can be wrong and misused. Thanks to everyone.
    Jonathan

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan Picard View Post
    My thread took on a life of its own. I tried a 4mm and that did the trick. I can't believe something like that can be wrong in a manual. Delta unfortunately has lost some of their edge; it's been quite an experience buying and setting up the saw. I plan to use both a wixey and a square. Both can be wrong and misused. Thanks to everyone.
    Jonathan
    My Unisaw was one of the first new style Unisaws sold. I am surprised the manual has not been corrected by now.
    Glad you got it figured out.

    Do you see any quality issues on you saw? I would like to add a second new style Unisaw to my shop.
    I was just wondering if the new saws are built to the same quality standards my saw was.

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