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Thread: Another Flintlock Pistol I made

  1. #1
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    Another Flintlock Pistol I made

    This pistol,with box,and accessories were made in the80's or 90's. I can't recall. I sold it to the president of a major chemical company with a 3 letter name.

    When I posted a lion's mask brooch in the classifieds last year,the sterling silver brooch was cast from the butt of this pistol. The original mask was hand chiseled from solid brass. It took about a month of evenings for me to make the mask alone. I got the mask cast and made the new owner's wife a brooch from it as a little extra gift.

    The gun stock was made from a piece of walnut firewood a friend gave me. He saw that the way the grain curved was a perfect match to make a flintlock pistol from. I dried the wood for a few years before using it.

    The brass side plate is not a casting. It was sawn from 1/8" brass,and filed and chiseled by hand.

    The butt was forged from a flat piece of brass by a process I developed,but feel was the way the originals were made: I developed a pattern that resembled the planet Saturn seen edge on,except the rings thickened and flowed into the circular planet as they approached it. The planet's body was forged into a hemispherical cavity in a steel die I made for the purpose. As the butt was forged,it was annealed several times. The deeper I forged the body of the planet,the more upright the "wings" became. Finally,I bent the wings into an even arc,capable of sliding up into the mating inletting I made in the grip of the pistol. Unless these wings were accurately and evenly circular,they would not slip up into the inlets. Finally,the outside surfaces of the butt cap and its wings were chiseled and riffler filed into the "gulleys" near the raised edges. Engraved lines enhanced these gullies. After I developed a way to forge these butts in 1 piece(as they should be made),the gunsmith's shop started to do them this way,instead of brazing 2 halves together.

    The mask has a flat tail on it which fits into a fitted,tapered mortise in the grip of the gun. It is secured by a hand filed screw that has no head,and is a straight,tapered shape. As it is screwed in,the mask is drawn tighter against the butt,holding both in securely. The originals were done this way. The strap of the trigger guard covers this screw.

    The lock is mostly hand file work. I left it bright,though the frizzen was hardened so the flint would spark against it. The name is hand engraved.

    The barrel is a half round,"swamped" shape,and half octagon. Details were hand filed into the octagon. The barrel was fire blued in my oven at about 750º,a real STRAIN on the kitchen oven!

    The ramrod "pipes" are of an early style since they are round rather than octagon. These details could be custom ordered by the customer. To make them,I turned the moldings into about a 2" diameter brass tube on the lathe. Then,pieces were sawn off,and bent around mandrels to fit the ram rod. The parts that go up into the stock were filed flat,like originals,and secured by small steel pins that go through the stock. These molded ramrod pipes were sometimes drawn flat through a die in the old days,then bent circular. I had no wire drawing setup.

    The maker's name is hand engraved on an inlet silver plate on the top of the barrel.

    The shell carving around the breech of the gun is typical of fine English guns,wrapping up into a swirl at its base. Sometimes they were symmetrical. I like this style better.

    This pistol's mask represents the skinned face of the lion that Hercules took as a trophy. Often,references to classical tales were used on guns,architecture,and other things in the 18th. C.,and in the periods before,and after,though in the 19th.C.,ornament began to become decadent,and too many references were just thrown together in a meaningless way.

    I see my label was completely whited out by the photographer's lights.

    The mahogany case has a wool broadcloth lining. I had to hand file out the hooks,and made the lock,too. I did not make the handle atop the case,as good ones are available. The hinges are high quality cast brass,like the old ones were.



    I decided to include a picture of a late 18th-early 19th.C. pistol I made so you scan see the differences in style that evolved. The later gun is more stark and business like.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by george wilson; 03-02-2013 at 11:05 AM.

  2. #2
    George, if you did crappier work, you might still have some of the things you made.

    Do you proof fire these pistols after you make them?

  3. #3
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    Yess,though do you know that proofing is no longer required in this country(especially not with black powder guns). I'd think high powered guns would be proofed,but apparently not these days.

  4. #4
    If I made a pistol like that, i would for sure want to get at least one loading out of it before I sent it off. I didn't know guns didn't have to be proofed. I think my rugers came with a spent shell, but I think that has to do with laws or possible laws about ballistic fingerprinting, and not with proofing.

    I guess there must be a cheaper way to check the barrels electronically, but I'd rather have a proofed gun.

  5. #5
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    The guns made in Williamsburg are thoroughly proofed,as well they should be,having hand forged barrels made from wrought iron,with all the silicon inclusions.

    There is a gun show today,but I can hardly get around. Besides,I'm not going till all the mad rush to buy guns and ammo at vastly inflated prices,dies down.

  6. #6
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    That is beautiful George. I love the piece of walnut you used. I wish I could get as saw handle look like that. What did you finish it with?

    The metal work on it is something else too!
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  7. #7
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    I finished it with Tru Oil. I have a slide that shows the real color of the wood better,but I have to find it. I put up the pistol rather than the treadle lathe because I'm not doing very well with my back,and these pictures were more readily at hand.

  8. #8
    Most helpful to have the commentary with the pictures, in particular,I had wondered before what the origin of the mask was. I got a deal on some green wool baize few years back at a yard sale,someones long put off pool table redo. Is that the type you use? Or is there a special ,better period type?

  9. #9
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    I used pool table cloth at the time,but now I have some real baize. The real cloth was a cheap kind of cloth,looking rather like miniature burlap. Very rough when you look at it closely. There's now a guy selling it for $30.00 a yard. They used it on many things,well up into the late 19th.C.. I've seen it in violin cases.

  10. #10
    Does that open weave type use just apply to box type use,or was that type also used on the early card tables?.I always wonder about that when I see old tables. Seen a bunch with old woven cloth and always wonder if its original. Thanks

  11. #11
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    Nice workmanship, thanks for posting.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    I finished it with Tru Oil. I have a slide that shows the real color of the wood better,but I have to find it. I put up the pistol rather than the treadle lathe because I'm not doing very well with my back,and these pictures were more readily at hand.

    This is just as cool to see. I really like this.

    I've seen Tru Oil mentioned a lot for various things in addition to gun stocks. What is in it? Is it an oil vanish blend of some kind? How stinky is it?
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  13. #13
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    It is no stinkier than oil based varnish. It dries in a few hours. I don't recommend it for objects that require thick,multiple coatings as it will take a print long after out is dry. I tried varnishing a violin with it long ago,as it is a very pretty finish. The legs of the violin bridge sank through the Tru Oli all the way to the wood,after it had had months to dry. It works fine on gunstocks with just a few wiped on coats.

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the info George. Sounds like it would make a nice tool handle finish. I think I've seen a number of folks mention using it for that.
    Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...

  15. #15
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    Beautiful George. What caliber? Did you make the barrel, is it riffled? Does the guy ever shoot it or does he just look at it? I'm a believer in collecting things, and taking care of them. But personally I only collect things that I also use. I hope he finds time to target shoot a bit with it. And pointing it at the cat would also be good fun.
    I like tru oil on hand plane totes, with wax over the top.
    The Plane Anarchist

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