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Thread: jet bandsaw project

  1. #1
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    jet bandsaw project

    Greetings all. I recently picked up a used 14"jet bandsaw and am in the process of refurbishing it. I am planning on adding the riser block kit and upgrading the spring to a carter cobra. I have noticed that the end of the tensioning rod has a point on it that matches to a countersink machined in the cast arm. The question i have is doesn't increasing the tension expose this to additional stresses? It seems to be deeper than i would expect it to be. Any thoughts/ experience with this?

  2. #2
    More than hundred views, no answer posted yet. Sorry, got no idea maybe it would be better if you'll call the previous
    owner of the band saw.

  3. #3
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    Can you post a picture of what you are talking about?
    Lee Schierer
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  4. #4
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    It's been a few years since I had my 14" bandsaw. It was a vintage 1939 Delta, so it might be different. If I understand your question, I had the same concern and was told it was normal. I never had a problem.

    a picture would be helpful.
    John Bailey
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  5. #5
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    I will try to get a pic tomorrow, but I see where the threaded tension rod has a point on the bottom that rides in a counterbore/countersink that was drilled into the arm casting. There doesn't seem to be alot of meat in that area which bears the full force of the tensioner threaded rod. I guess my question and concern is that I don't want to screw up the cast upper arm if I install the Iturra spring and riser block. Maybe I am just paranoid but it would be a disaster to have the tension crack the upper arm while resawing. Does this make any more sense, or should I just delete the thread. for some reason I can't seem to be able to describe my concerns.

  6. #6
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    Jay, there have been thousands of cast iron saws fitted with heavier springs in the last ten years. I've never heard of anybody cutting through the casting or causing a crack. The springs aren't that much stronger than the original. I have heard of people cracking the aluminum bracket that contains the spring, or bending the upper wheel pivot. It's not a problem commonly described, though. Most people install the riser kit and spring and happily saw away.

    It's been a few years, but when I had a 14" saw, I greased the pivot hole that you're describing. I figured it cut down on friction and possible abrasion.

  7. #7
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    I think I understand your question. I've got a 14" band saw and wondered the same thing. I'm not a real heavy user but I've had the saw 7 or 8 years and no problems yet. Seems I read about the issue several years ago. As I recall, someone was asking about the possibility of putting something (steel plate) under the tensioning rod. Can't recall what was said. Probably end up messing up the rod.

    P.S. I don't much resawing so I haven't worried about the issue as much. It seems the rod does cut into the casting a bit.
    Last edited by Gary Hodgin; 02-27-2013 at 11:44 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Yoder View Post
    I will try to get a pic tomorrow, but I see where the threaded tension rod has a point on the bottom that rides in a counterbore/countersink that was drilled into the arm casting. There doesn't seem to be alot of meat in that area which bears the full force of the tensioner threaded rod. I guess my question and concern is that I don't want to screw up the cast upper arm if I install the Iturra spring and riser block. Maybe I am just paranoid but it would be a disaster to have the tension crack the upper arm while resawing. Does this make any more sense, or should I just delete the thread. for some reason I can't seem to be able to describe my concerns.
    If you're going to buy, or have bought the spring and riser block from Iturra, ask Louis about it. I've bought a number of items from Louis, including all my blades, and I've always gotten him on the phone. He may be the most knowledge person when it comes to 14" bandsaws and will know the answer. I've looked through his catalogue and I suspect, since I couldn't find a fix for this "problem," that it's not a problem.

    By all means keep this thread going. It seems many, like me, have wondered about this and I'd like to find out the answer.
    John Bailey
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  9. #9
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    I have a steel frame saw with a different tensioning mechanism but I think I understand the concern. How about an occasional drop of oil around the end of the rod?

  10. #10
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    I always (I've restored way too many 14" Deltas) round over the end of the tension rod so that does not dig in. It seems to make tensioning easier and it prevents the tension rod from drilling any further into the casting.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by John Lanciani View Post
    I always (I've restored way too many 14" Deltas) round over the end of the tension rod so that does not dig in. It seems to make tensioning easier and it prevents the tension rod from drilling any further into the casting.
    If it has dug into frame, simply drill out hole and tap to accept a grade 8 bolt. A Ittura Design tip, thanks Louis.

  12. #12
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    Jay
    As both John and Curt have said, round over rod end and lube. I would got with grease other then oil as it will stay in place longer. Tom

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the great replies. I put the riser block on tonight and just am waiting for the tension crank assembly and Iturra spring from Highland Woodworking tomorrow I will round it over and put a drop of oil in the countersink every so often. I am just relieved that I was not the only one who pondered such things...I have attached a pic of the area being discussed. 2013-02-28_19-57-02_89.jpg

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Yoder View Post
    Thanks for the great replies. I put the riser block on tonight and just am waiting for the tension crank assembly and Iturra spring from Highland Woodworking tomorrow I will round it over and put a drop of oil in the countersink every so often. I am just relieved that I was not the only one who pondered such things...I have attached a pic of the area being discussed. 2013-02-28_19-57-02_89.jpg
    Rounding over the tip of the rod looks like a good idea. If you felt it necessary, you could put a small piece of steel over the cast iron divot and drill a divot in the steel. Maybe use a dab of epoxy or JBWeld to hold it in place. That may be overkill, you're the best judge of how much wear is occurring after rounding over the rod end.

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