Old plane

[James Taglienti]

I have a K 4 1/2 that i like for prepping cabinet face frame parts (1 3/4 - 2" wide) cause it can get them in one swipe even with a camber. If only the dang thing was a couple inches shorter it would be my favorite

[John T Barker]

My first plane was a 4-1/2...a Record. Since then I have bought a 6, a 3, and a bunch of 4's (oh, and a 2, but that's just so I could brag) and the plane I use the most is the 3. Owning a planer and jointer means I'm not really using them for their intended use most of the time so I usually go with the one that is most comfortable in my hands. The 4-1/2 always felt wrong.

Btw, these planes were all bought used, Stanleys from the days of Lancaster County flea markets. Clean them up, sharpen the blade and they work like a charm. If I wasn't so lazy I'd get a Hock blade and really make them sing.

[steven c newman]

Never have had a #4-1/2 in my shop. Might be a change from using that #5-1/2 I do have. IF I get lucky this weekend, I will find out in about a week IF I like them. Seigley is a single iron plane. With a nice thick, but tapered iron. We'll see.

If I don't get lucky, I do have a back up plan going on.

[Terry Beadle]

A 4 1/2 is nice to have but not required. It's wider ( 3/8 ths ) blade doesn't really add a material amount to the process of flattening a surface IMO.

I'd recommend a #4 or a #3 Stanley. They are readily available used and since there's so much after market support for them, especially in replacement blades, for the $20 you'll spend plus shipping, you'll have a better place to start. I recommend a Hock blade. I have other blades and they are great too but Ron Hock gives great service, writes great books, and generally has been the leader in metalurgical improvements to plane blades over time. ( Ron, send me scraps and I'll keep up the pimping...hoot! )

Seriously, a stanley or record is a great starting point and cheap too. An after market blade, properly sharpened and mounted will make that $20 plane work like a $300 model. I've several #5's and a Record 7 that I've used for years with great results. I also have a #3 Clifton that I wouldn't trade for anything...works great !

All that said, I have a $10 #33 ( which is a very small plane about the size of a #2 ) bought from Harbor Freight that after fettled does a great job. So the point is, you can take that Seigley can also be made to sing but not as easily as a Stanley or Record IMO.

Which ever path you take, enjoy the process because that's where the fun is IMO !

[steven c newman]

A few of my #4s in action ( I have four of them) SDC14156.jpgSDC14152.jpga Union #4G, and a Stanley type11, #4c. I also have a pair of #3sSDC14107.jpgSDC13556.jpga Union #3 (love this plane!) and a Handyman#1203. That H-F #33 Windsor is now my scrub plane, as I have re-ground the iron into a 3" radius. One hungry little beast now.

[Zach Dillinger]

Again, I will say that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the Siegley iron. Heavy, tapered, good vintage steel. Like most planes, replacing the iron is totally and wholly unnecessary for getting a great working plane. I have experience with the Siegley type and they are fine planes. The design is good. There is nothing that will make tuning more difficult, unless your idea of tuning is to simply slap a new iron in it. Your only concern is if the iron is damaged or rusted beyond repair. If it is, you can find another Siegley iron. They aren't all that rare. Are they the best planes ever made? No. But they will work extremely well for you as long as the example you get is in good shape.

[steven c newman]

Auction is about over, price went way over what I had available. Well, maybe next time one comes up, eh?

[Jim Koepke]

Auction is about over, price went way over what I had available. Well, maybe next time one comes up, eh?

For me, the #4-1/2 was one of the more elusive planes to win on ebay. One day my wife and I were driving down US 101 through Oregon. I picked up a plane in an antique shop that had the blade sticking out of the bottom. When trying to adjust it back to a safe position, the adjuster worked backwards. Upon a closer look it turned out to be an early (type 6 with original blade) #4-1/2. The tag said $30, didn't think twice. No sales tax in Oregon made it just that much sweeter.

Another elusive plane, in my price range, was an early #60(-1/2), with the larger ramp at the mouth. Finally gave up trying for a vintage model, bought an LN #60 and have been very satisfied with its performance.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Well, Itried my usual luck in getting a Junior jack for the shop. Usual luck means it didn't happen. Not quite as bad as the Seigley. A Millers falls #11. Someone else must know about these types of planes. On the "rebound" ( plan C) I did "win" a Millers Falls #8. I have had a M-F #9 at one time, then went Stanley Planes, and sold the #9. This time, I may just keep the #8, as I seem to like the size. A #8 is about the same as a Stanley #3. Should be here next weekend.


Selling an older "parts Plane' at the moment, to raise a little cash for a M-F #22. Parts Plane at one time was a KK7. Now Bobtailed down to just under 20" long, it has a Union style frog, and a Stanley Clipped corner logo iron. I had to replace the handles, but all else came with the plane when I bought it. The missing length was missing then. Kind of made to nose heavy for me. It preformed great otherwise as a decent Jointer plane.