Davis and Wells - Getting it home!

[Sam Layton]

Jeff,

Congratulations on your saw. Did the transport home work out OK? Let us know when you get it running,

Good job, Sam

[Steven Satur]

I have the exact same saw that I picked up a few years ago.
Do not put Carter tires on this. From what I was told the only way to go is with vulcanized tires. I was luckey that mine only needed truing up a little.
The one photo show what looks like the tire is falling off the wheel, or is it just me?If you need new tires the have D&W or Tools for Woodworking put them on. Setting this saw up took me about 4-5 hrs. but the end result was worth it.
I have a dust collection hooked up that I made up on mine that someone sent me some photos on theirs, I think theirs was from D&W.

Goodluck

Steve001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg

[Jeff Carmi]

Thanks everyone for the replies!

Transport went well. There are a few details to comment on, like strapping techniques and crate making, that would've been helpful had I thought it through beforehand. Consider where the straps will go and anticipate where blocking will be needed to avoid tugging on anything but the frame. I was nervous about bending the wheel cover with the strap cranked down over the frame in the throat of the saw. Also didn't like how the straps pressed the steel cabinet. I think if anyone's really serious about moving a valuable saw they should crate it. I would have been really stressed if this was a new(er) saw not needing (much) work. Next time I'd bring my tools and some 2x4 and 4x4 lumber for crating/palletizing. Spax screws are great for quick, strong construction (no pre-drlling).

The flatbed truck works alright. A lift-gate would be easiest. Have it on a pallet is a big plus if you have a pallet jack. Finally, I'd say the best/most helpful thing is manpower. I came home to a few friends (three guys) who helped the two of us who did the loading and suddenly it was a piece of cake! Well, almost.

It's been a week and not much has transpired. I'm getting the funds together before I get going on this. I know I could have it useable in a few day's work, but I'm considering doing a full restoration right off the bat - thinking it'll be better in the long run. The problem is I don't have the time to commit to that now and would mean the saw sitting inoperable for a few months. Any suggestions for a first-timer as to which route I should go and why?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Jeff, I don't know what your saw may need in a full resto, but when I bought my big Oliver, I expected to do a full restore off the bat too. I even bought a bunch of stuff to do it, without knowing if they were necessary As luck would have it though, I moved and it got put on hold, then I needed to resaw, so I just fired it up. After using it for a bit, it was much more obvious what my machine actually needed beyond a Krylon overhaul. I ended up replacing the Carter aftermarket guides with monster Tannewitz models, that look nearly identical to what the saw was supposed to have, but have better bearings. The motor was also weak, which was not obvious, and the line belt conversion that someone did was geared wrong. The blade was going twice as fast as I wanted and I didn't like the power control either. I ended up replacing the motor, different ratio pulleys, the guides, built a magnetic starter, added a few shields, and a Laguna fence.

Most of the parts I bought for it before I used it are still in boxes in the woodshop. I was going to repaint it too, but turns out I get a kick out of seeing the honest wear on the old paint, which is really in pretty good shape. By just using it, I also got an appreciation for what that amazing machine will do. Those little Carter guides (the biggest Carter sells) looked adequate before I actually used it for example.

Anyway, that's my approach, use it if you want.

[Jeff Carmi]

Hello everyone!

So it's taken a few months to get back around to restoring this old boy. I still don't quite have the funds I'd like, but I think I'm going to go for it. I'm going to be moving at the end of this month and figure it's a good excuse to take the saw apart. I'm not sure if it's appropriate to start a new thread on the restoration, so let me know.

Here's what I'm thinking (and in the order that I'm thinking it):

- Wheels off. Send for volcanizing/balancing
- Take saw apart. Consider repainting. If so, sandblast (have never done this).
- Order all replacement parts. Definitely need new guide blocks and bearings.
- Repair hole below table (see pics above). Hopefully my metalworker buddy can do this for me.
- Possibly regrind/flatten table and repair pitting in mitre slot.
- Paint (have a spray gun, but never used it. My compressor is small but should suffice)
- Moving. Re-assemble saw at new garage.
- 3hp 3ph motor and VFD. Found one local (http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/3720724365.html) but unsure about matching frame types and shaft diameters. Also not sure if motor RPM is a concern if I'll be using a VFD.
- Driftmaster fence system
- Carbide blade(s)
- Make much dust!

PLEASE let me know what you guys think! This will be my first full restoration and I've got a commission to start building mid-May, so this has to happen quickly. Your thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

-Jeff

[loren forney]

She's a beauty! No advantage to a 3 phase motor outside of commercial ventures. Get a single phase motor unless you already have 3 phase service to your shop. 3 phase service is way spendy and without it you will need a converter to create 3 phase power from single phase power.

Congrats again on your new and lightweight (LOL) bandsaw.

Loren

[Jeff Carmi]

Thanks, Loren!

I'm under the impression that a VFD would act as a phase converter since it takes 1 or 3 phase IN and puts only 3 phase OUT. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think I've seen quite a few do this. In any case, I really would like the VFD for it's slow-start and electronic braking, as well as the ability to adjust the speed for different woods/operations.

[Brad Walton]

I am new to this site. I am looking at a Davis & Wells band saw. Will the blade speeds on these saws run slow enough to cut metal, such as 300 FPM, as compared to wood cutting speeds of about 3,000 FPM? Thanks for any help, Brad

[Gus Dundon]

That's a great looking band saw.! That hole is a mystery. How old is it?