Tool handles - which 3rd party handle?

[Thom Sturgill]

Time to dive into the collective...

I have made several wooden tool handles and have generally been pleased with them, though I admit a few ideas did not work too well. However, I am coming to the opinion that being able to remove the steel from the handle to sharpen it may yield better results. It would also let my tool storage be more efficient if I rack blades and handles separately.

So I have been trying to research handles.

I own a Thompson 16" x 5/8" handle that will work for all my 5/8" gouges (though I may leave my Ellsworth in its longer handle), I also own a 20" long foam covered 3/4" handle that holds my boring bars if i want to use them freehand.

I know about the D-Way, Oneway, SB, Serious, and Michelsen handles though I have not used any of them. I also have seen various insert and ferrules that allow blade removal including a kit that works with PVC pipe though I am NOT leaning in that direction.

What I would like to know is which ones work well (probably all), any I've missed (with links?), any known issues, and if any problems have been noticed with the use of quick change knobs. Also comments on handle length vs blade diameter for both bowl and spindle gouges though I may not change my spindle gouges at this time since the handles are generally short enough to not be in the way when sharpening.

[paul vechart]

There are also Trent Bosch brand handles http://www.trentbosch.com/ I just recently bought his 5/8" hollowing set which comes with a 20" handle. They look to be well made...I haven't used it yet but soon.

Paul

[David Walser]

Thom,

I have both Kelton and Serious tool handles. Of the two, I strongly prefer the Serious. The primary reason I prefer the Serious is because of the collet system. It makes changing tools or adjusting the length the tool sticks out very quick and easy. I also like the way the tool feels in my hand. It feels solid. The foam covering absorbs vibrations without reducing the "feel" of the cut. On cold days (rare here in Arizona) the handle does not feel cold. On hot days (frequent here), the handle does not feel hot. When my hands are a little sweaty, the foam seems to absorb the moisture, keeping my grip secure. Some downsides: the foam seems to attract chips. It's an easy thing to brush them off, but they don't all fall off like they do from a wooden handle. I would also prefer to have a greater size selection for both the handle itself and the collets it uses. I use it for full size tools and like the balance just fine. I don't know how it would be for smaller tools. The 17.5" length might be too long and the handle itself might be too heavy. I haven't used it for a large bowl gouge, but I think it would be just fine for that.

My Kelton handle came with my center saver. I only use it for that. My handle is covered in plastic. It's a good, non-slip, surface. Just not as comfortable as the foam covered Serious handle. What I don't like about it is the use of allen screws to keep secure the tool to the handle. I suspect I would feel the same about any other system that uses screws. Kelton has a new handle that is foam covered and uses collets. It comes in different lengths and has a wider range of collets available for the handle. I've only picked one up at a show. My impression was that it felt much better in the hand than the older handle. I think I'd still prefer the Serious handle (the Kelton's collet "knuckle" is huge), but it would be a close call.

HTH

[Thom Sturgill]

I had forgotten about the Kelton handle, I guess I thought about it as a dedicated part of the system. I think it a bit heavy for 1/2" or 3/8" gouges and I have the Thompson for the larger gouges. I hope to see one of the Serious handles at the next Florida symposium in feb or the AAW symposium later this year.

[Jim Burr]

Monster makes very nice handles...I have 4 of them on my Thompson stuff.

[Roger Chandler]

Add me to the Serious Camlock handle fan club. I got mine just a few days ago. I have a Thompson with my name engraved on it and I like it a lot.......but in a cold [er] climate, during the winter, the neoprene cover is so nice and the thing is really comfortable.

Add to that David Walser's observations about the collet system......and the length adjustment that is done with the simple 1/4 turn of the camlock and you have the most versatile system available. Now that being said, the collets are machined to exacting tolerances........from what Scott Trumbo mentioned to me.

The Thompson gouges are machined to exacting tolerances and do fine in the serious handles.........but perhaps not every manufacturer is as precise in the machining of the tang on their gouge, and there might be a fit issue. Scott told me that their experience with the Thompson gouges is that they are finely machined and fit the handles well.

I ordered the 1/2 and 5/8 collets and my Thompson fits the collet.........that was important to me in deciding to get the Serious Toolworks camlock handle.........it is SAWEEEET!

One more thing......if you use a Thompson gouge in a Serious Camlock handle [at least the 5/8" one] the tang is just a bit smaller than the gouge body itself.......it will not slide down into the handle because the collet is so precisely machined....no slop and no room for the extra mass on the gouge to go into the collet, so the full length of the gouge will extend out of the handle, but it can still come out for sharpening, which I also really like!

[Bob Hamilton]

I used the Oneway thread-lock ferrule in the 3/8" size to mount a double ended 3/8" bowl gouge in a wooden handle. I confess that I really didn't have very high expectations but thought it was worth a try. I was quite pleasantly surprised at how well it holds the tool and the lack of vibration in use. If you try them I would suggest that the correct taper template is a necessity, not a luxury. The templates are cheap and take the guess work out of sizing the ferrule tenon. The two smaller sizes of the thread-lock ferrules only have one set screw to hold the gouge in the handle, so I was expecting it to vibrate like crazy. It doesn't seem to. The two larger sizes of ferrules have two set screws, although they are pretty close together. I have not tried them so I don't know if they work as well as the 3/8" size. http://www.oneway.ca/index.php?optio...id=64&Itemid=2

As far as 3rd party handles goes, I have several of the Thompson in 12", one Thompson 16", the Kelton that came with my coring system which I also use with a Kelton hollowing blade for Christmas ornaments, the handle that came with my Rolly Monro tool, and a 5/8" bore Oneway handle (16" or 18"??). They all seem to work very well. The Oneway is perhaps a bit more comfortable to hold since it has the resilient sleeve as opposed to bare metal like the Thompsons, but they all do their intended job and allow easy removal of the tool for sharpening. (Including the thread-lock)

Take care
Bob

[John Keeton]

I have Monster handles, and while they are well made, the foam covering tends to pick up chips. I prefer the D-Way handle with a neoprene covering. I think they all will do the job, and the decision probably hinges on your feelings regarding the covering, or whether you want a cam-lock - not an important feature for me.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have monster and d-way handles. Like John said the monster picks up a lot of chips but they are nice. I find myself using the d-way more often.

[Greg Ketell]

For those interested: I didn't know what the Serious CamLock handle was so I googled it. Not only do I now know what it is but I also found it on sale at highland wood working.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/s...ck-handle.aspx

"on sale" those buggers are spendy!

[Harry Robinette]

Don't know if the Dave is selling any handles right now but Dave Pebbles makes a padded handle at a very reasonable price from what I've heard.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I've been using D-Way handles for a while now, and like them a lot. I also use Dave's quick release knob in place of one of the set screws to allow quick removal for sharpening.
At the AAW in San Jose, I bought a set of ferrules from Mike Hoseluk that work like the OneWay ferrules at the end of a wooden handle, but you don't need a template to turn a special profile at the end. They're available on his website. I've made four of them now, and they are awesome - turn the handles to a profile and length that's comfortable for you, drill a hole to accept the ferrule, then drill a hole deep enough to accept as much of the tool as you like. two set screws hold it in place. I used one of Dave's knobs in place of one of the set screws and the result is really sweet.

I like a short handle for most spindle tools and these let me tailor them to my hands easily.

[John Keeton]

I normally do not like to post negative comments about anyone's product, but I had a negative experience with the Hosaluk setup. Like Jeff, I purchased one at AAW in St. Paul, and installed a 1/2" gouge in it. As I was getting ready to present the tool to the wood, in a moment of inattention, I made contact with the wood above the toolrest. The result was a nasty catch - something I do not experience often. When the tool was slammed against the rest, the unit exploded the handle, splitting it 3/4 of the length.

The reason for a ferrule on a handle is to strengthen the handle by containing the wood fibers against being separated by force. IMO, the Hosaluk unit is NOT a ferrule, and actually weakens the handle as its use creates a larger hole in the handle and maximizes the force transfer in the event of a catch. In essence, you have a very large "tool" in a large hole, in unsupported wood.

I hope I am the only one having this experience, but I could not recommend that setup. At first glance, it seemed like a neat idea. But, in application, I do not believe that catch would have had the same effect on one of my other wood handles with the ferrule in place.

[Roger Chandler]

For those interested: I didn't know what the Serious CamLock handle was so I googled it. Not only do I now know what it is but I also found it on sale at highland wood working.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/s...ck-handle.aspx

"on sale" those buggers are spendy!

Greg.....what you are getting is a finely machined stainless steel unit that has a finely machined SS collet and camlock collar...........the unit is VERY nice! M​ine was the regular price and I am happy I got it!

[Alan Zenreich]

I bought a set of ferrules from Mike Hoseluk that work like the OneWay ferrules at the end of a wooden handle, but you don't need a template to turn a special profile at the end.

The metal pieces are only similar in that they hold the chisel. The Oneway threads onto the wood, much like a nut does on a bolt that uses very fine threads. This compresses the wood for a very tight fit (and being tapered, it can later be snugged down if the wood shrinks). So it is performing both a quick tool removal, and ferrule function. The metal Hosaluk adapter is epoxied into a stepped straight hole bored into the handle. This allows the tool to be removed, but isn't what most folk think of as a ferrule.