Campbell Finishing Schedule

[Alex Horvath]

Hi all,

I got a hold of a painted vintage Thomasville dresser that I have stripped and I plan to paint it in the same scheme as the manufacturer.
The original had a off white base, aged gold in the coves and beads, and some very light grey toned glaze on the curves.
Want to make sure I do it right as I usually spray house paint like BM alkyd but I wanted to use something made for spraying this time and avoid any possibility of yellowing.

I stripped the piece with methyl chloride stripper. I read that these usually have wax in them to slow down drying. This piece has a lot of bead and cove details so I want to limit sanding.
Should I wipe down with mineral spirits and sand lightly?

1. Prime with pre cat MagnaClaw, 2 coats sanding 320 between coats.
2. Topcoat with Magnamax or Magnalac. Since I have to buy a gallon might as well do 2 coats. Sand lightly with 400 after each coat?
3. Paint gold highlights with artists paintbrush. I have used waterbase metallic paints from Blue pearl for this before but I don't know if it's the best choice here. In many places the gold was wiped during application and thus very thin to give a somewhat distressed look. If I abrade it slightly will there be a compatibility problem with a clear Campbell pre cat topcoat?
4. Glaze with Campbell glaze. I assume my supplier can tint this for me.
5. Topcoat with Campbell clear.


I saw a professional mention that he simply tints the primer thus avoiding the topcoat step altogether (glaze and clear on top of primer) but it's possible I may stop at the topcoat so I don't mind the extra steps.



P.S. as I stripped this piece i was amazed at the quality of contruction. The drawers, which have a S curve to the front and are inset, are made of 1" ply laminations. They must have made a custom press for this.
The drawers have a 1/16" hardwood bead applied to the front using grooves - all on the curved front of the drawers.
The top has a base of MDF but the 3 edges are breadboarded hardwood and then the entire top has what looks like a strip veneer top so you cannot see the breadboard joint. I suppose they did this to avoid any possibilty of warping or cracking.

[Todd Burch]

You can call your Campbell distributor, but I suspect there will be a need in there for a coat of clear vinyl sealer as well, if you will be introducing non-Campbell chemicals between coats.

Todd

[Geoffrey Frey]

Not sure if this would apply, but from talking to my ML Campbell rep he was telling me to limit the number of topcoats. The product I use is Krystal, and specifically with that product he told me 2 coats or maximum 3 coats at 4-5 wet mils. Not sure if that would apply to their precats or not.