The Tips and Tricks Thread

[Brian Henderson]

Those plastic cards I get in the mail hoping you will join various organizations. I use them and old debit/credit cards for glue spreaders.

Same here. I have hundreds of them. They want to give me credit cards, they just give me glue spreaders.

[Floyd Mah]

I have a couple of i-socket devices, made by DGC Products, sold by Rockler. The device allows a tool (like a router or Festool Domino) to turn on a vacuum when the tool is powered.
isocket.JPG
The problem is that I have only one vacuum in the workshop, so that if I want to use the vacuum independently of the i-socket, I would need to unplug the vacuum from the i-socket and plug it into another outlet. Then I would need to plug the vacuum back into the i-socket when done. I determined that only the hot black lead is switched, via an internal relay to power the vacuum. The neutral and ground leads are passed through without switching.

I installed a single pole switch (SPDT or DPDT is ok also) into the case of the isocket. I divided the wire coming fromthe "VAC" hot (line) socket connection and screwed that to the common, middle post of the switch. The other half of the divided wire (emerging from the circuit board) goes to one of the "load" terminals of the switch and a separate jumper is wired from the hot (line) from the wall (via the power socket) to the remaining load terminal of the switch. I am being deliberately vague and not including a detailed drawing, since you would be working with power line voltages and need to know your way with simple power wiring to perform this modification. Just suffice it to say that there is space within the isocket to install a separate switch for turning the vacuum on and that the wiring of the original, intact device is simply using a sensor within the device to switch only the line voltage to the vacuum line socket connection via a simple relay.

Seems to work fine. I can now activate the vacuum the usual way via the isocket or switch it manually when I need to power the vacuum to pick up some debris separate from the attached power tool.

Other details: When wiring to the line connector plug of the circuit board: it seems to be floating from the board without a rigid mechanical attachment, just the plastic of the case. Soldering on that terminal may make the connector change position due to melting of the plastic. In order to avoid that, I plug the isocket into a spare AC power cord that is unpowered (I stress that it must be unpowered), so that the heat from soldering my wire doesn't loosen the heated plug from the circuit board. The backup socket will keep the plugs' connectors from drifting apart. Don't heat it longer than necessary for a good solder joint. Be sure that the new wires and switch are rated for the same current of the unmodified device (15A at 120 VAC). Also insulate all connections and never work on a powered circuit.

Also note that the two devices that I have differ internally. The older one seems to have a large heat sink inside, but the amount of internal space is about the same. I was able to install the switch on the bottom of the case of the newer one. I think the older device would accommodate the switch better if placed on the left side. The older isocket has an extra mounting lug outboard from the case at the top, while the newer switch doesn't have this lug. You can use this lug to identify which version you have. The devices themselves disassemble via four Phillips screws on the rear of the case, under some hot glue plugs. No glue present holding the case together.

[glenn bradley]

For use as a glue spreader I use a hole punch to notch the edges of gift cards.

Some cards are 1/32", I use these as a sort of macro-feeler gauge when setting reveals.

Gift Card Uses.jpg

[Al Launier]

I've found my drill press table to be too small on occasions so I made an adjustable extension table to support longer pieces. The center strip can be slid in or out via a dovetail to provide a new surface under the workpiece.

I've also found myself occasionally making a series of inline holes, so a pivot fence does the trick. Just align the drill where needed, pivot the fence against the side of the piece to be drilled & clamp the fence to the table. Then slide the work piece along the fence to drill all holes the same distance from the fence. Both save time & work well.

[Charlie Jones]

For use as a glue spreader I use a hole punch to notch the edges of gift cards.

Some cards are 1/32", I use these as a sort of macro-feeler gauge when setting reveals.

Gift Card Uses.jpg

That's cool. I never thought of the hole punch. I will use that..Thanks.

[Brian Deakin]

I used a old compact discs to spread filler when repairing a large hole in a wall

You could use the same principle and use the discs to spread glue over large surfaces

[Bryan Cramer]

Just a quick tip: Vinegar cleans up epoxy that hasn’t cured yet. It’s a safe way to remove it from your hands and anywhere you don’t want it.

[Charlie Jones]

Many years ago someone gave me a Buck hunting knife. Not having another use for it I hung it in the sheath over my bench.
It is amazing how much I use it and for so many tasks.

[glenn bradley]

One of those things you do without thinking to share . . . I needed to cut a 1/2" rod in half and had to be pretty close as it was already a bit short for the application. I drill a hole the size of the rod through a piece of scrap. I then cut a cross into it at the bandsaw. The long cut only has to go just past the rod to allow the saw to make the cut. The short cut as to go far enough past the rod to allow the vise to apply some squeeze to hold the rod still.

Rod Cutting guide (2).jpg . Rod Cutting guide (1).jpg . Rod Cutting guide (3).jpg

[Bill Carey]

Every now and then I have a small piece of metal that needs to be straightened. Might be a kitchen knife, a part from a machine or a drill bit. And pounding on it on wood or concrete was a pain. Walking thru a junk shop I saw one of those old cast iron irons. Flip it over and you have a nice small anvil. Won't take heavy abuse, but works great for minor "persuasion".

[glenn bradley]

I have had this 'version 1' made from a chunk of 2x4 for so long I forget when I made it. You can use a normal tape measure scrap and just divide by two. I printed this scale that I stretched/shrank until it was half scale. I looked for the file to attach here but, it has gone the way of the wind.

Circ Cutter Jig (1).jpg . Circ Cutter Jig (2).jpg

The idea was to just get close but, I find I can get darn near dead-on nearly every time.

[Justin Ludwig]

Here’s a short video of the jig I use to install drawer faces. I’m using it on an inset application here. It works for any overlay or inset and faceframes or euro.

[glenn bradley]

Your method of doing something like this will vary with your storage methods. I use Plano boxes for screw storage. I stick a piece of "ruler" marked tape to the lid.

Screw Measure (2).jpg

This gives me a quick place to check fasteners right where they are stored.

Screw Measure (1).jpg

I just use a piece of the tape that is 4" or so long. I don't care that it doesn't start at "1" or that it reads in reverse.

Screw Measure (3).jpg

For its purpose it is useful from any random whole-inch starting point. I space the tape off from the edge of the lid a bit for pan head and washer head in order to assure a good measurement as I keep some lengths in "tweener" sizes like 1-3/8" or 1-1/8".

[Patrick McCarthy]

Lud, thank you For posting.
1. Are you attaching the drawer fronts with screws?
2. If so, what are you adjusting on the sides of the top drawer?

I think I am missing something basic. Thank you, Patrick

[Dave huber]

Like others, I subscribe to and enjoy Serge's https://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com atelier du Bricoleur website. It is in both French and English, which is neat. He has TONS of great ideas.

However, I KNOW I had a PDF of many many tips from a man who's name I cannot recall. He is from Poland, I believe. The tips and hints this guy had were great.

I am sure I squirreled it away, but cannot find it online or in my personal digital horde right now. Does this ring a bell with anyone?
Thanks.

Dave