Hey, ya Dave! Have you visited the knitting forums? I'm there, too.
SMC has been awesome for posting drum builds. Huge variety of projects going on, and there is some inspiration to be found. Carving, finishing, inlay, the works.
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Hey, ya Dave! Have you visited the knitting forums? I'm there, too.
SMC has been awesome for posting drum builds. Huge variety of projects going on, and there is some inspiration to be found. Carving, finishing, inlay, the works.
Play drums!
[OP]
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Did some work on the outside of the 22" kick drum.
22" diameter x 16" deep shell, mounted up in the rig.
22_outside2_2.jpg
First bites of the first pass. Serious color change!
22_outside2_3.jpg
Fast forward to the end result. Measured 68 5/8" circumference with my flexible metal tape, and hit it for a bit with 80 and 100 grit, cross grain, to remove tool marks.
22_outside2_5.jpg
Remember all that drama about the crack? Here is said crack, filled in with Hot Stuff CA glue. Pretty good.
22_outside2_5a.jpg
And another view of the shell out of the rig. Just a smidge larger than 21 13/16" diameter. A commercially made drum head for a kick drum requires a shell that is 3/16" smaller than nominal size, and final sanding will bring the outside diameter to spec.
Yep, inside turning to do, but that will be another day.
22_outside2_6.jpgi
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An update, finally motorized the rig.
The old 3/4" bearings.
rig_fix_1.jpg
New 1/2" bearings
rig_fix_2.jpg
A Dayton 9 RPM gear motor. Yes, I've actually bolted it down so it doesn't flop around, and fixed the belt tension, but for picture purposes....
A 1750 RPM 1/2 hp motor is behind the gear motor, I have other uses for that one.
rig_fix_3.jpg
1/2" precision shafting, with these drive rollers. A shame that the drive rollers did not come in 3/4" bore, I would have preferred that.
rig_fix_4.jpg
Video of the setup --->
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An update, then.
A picture of the motor, cinched down. The cradles are from basswood, and they have a 5" arc to kinda, sorta match the motor's body. Plumber's hanging strap keeps the motor firmly on the cradles. Pulley on the motor is 5", on the shaft is a 1.5". The shell now turns at 4 RPM, nominally, 270 inches a minute for the inside cutting, given an 21.5" diameter.
rig_fix_5.jpg
The rough work has been done, time for some finishing passes.
22_inside_1.jpg
2 shots of the inside, complete with tool marks. The ridges are very small, and sanded out easily. Cutting quater sawn grain was great!
22_inside_2.jpg22_inside_3.jpg
The inside is sanded, and this 22" diameter x 16" tall shell is done, ready to be packaged and shipped to the customer.
22_inside_4.jpg
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Betcha I had forgotten all about this project. Took a breather from the shop, spent some good weekends on the bike, and with a fresh attitude, back to it!
The 14" floor tom is set up in the outside turning rig.
14_floor_outside_1.jpg
The first pass or so with the outside.
14_floor_outside_2.jpg
Done with the machining, pretty much hit the target, a tad fat to account for the thickness of the measuring tape, and some sanding.
14_floor_outside_3.jpg
Closer view of the grain.
14_floor_outside_4.jpg
Outside turning and most of the sanding, done.
14_floor_outside_done_1.jpg
The 2nd pass or so with the shell mounted in the inside turning rig.
14_floor_inside_1.jpg
The rig, in all its glory. 8" dia on the motor, 1" dia on the shafting, some Power Link belting, and after all the math is done including the 2.5" drive rollers that the 14" shell is actually sitting on....about 6-7 RPM. Which is fast enough.
14_floor_inside_2.jpg
Not a shabby finish on the inside. Sanding, yes, but not a monstrous amount.
14_floor_inside_3.jpg
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Time for the 16" floor tom.
This is when all the routing was done, padauk everywhere.
16_outside_again_1.jpg
Finished the cross-grain sanding. Switched method of work to remove the cross grain scratches, I use a cork block that is shaped to the outside diameter. I'm hand sanding, rather than using a RO sander, due to 1) pig tails and 2) it's really easy to sand a swale in the center of the shell.
16_outside_again_2.jpg
Removed the bulk of the cross grain scratches, the shell is ready to be un-mounted.
16_outside_again_3.jpg
A not-oft view of my inside rig. Very purpose-built lathe, for sure.
16_inside_1.jpg
Work, work, work.
16_inside_2.jpg
The last of the polygon is cut away. It's truly a drum, now.
16_inside_3.jpg
16" ready for inside sanding.
16_inside_4.jpg
Last edited by Seth Dolcourt; 04-30-2013 at 2:13 AM.
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Beautiful drums, thanks for sharing. Exotic solid wood is the way to go. I guess my gypsy drum would be on the cheatin' side.
Sal.
Member
Good Stuff! How much of a problem is dimensional stability on stave drums like this? I would think with humidity/temp changes they would tend to go out of round...
Member
Wow Seth! Very tidy and creative work here. I always enjoy watching your work and processes. Just impressive on all counts!
Peace,
Mark
"Thought that is no longer limited brings experience that is no longer limited" Marianne Williamson.
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Sorry for the tardy replies, folks.
No such thing as cheating. The goal is a sound, and ifthe drum makes a sound, then goal achieved.Originally Posted by Sal Kurban
Hi, Kevin,
Yes, they don't always keep a perfect figure. However, the differences are quite slight, and fortunately, not enough to cause issues for drum head fitment.
Ply constructed shells will naturally be more stable, but it's amazing how even the best of commercially made shells have their own out-of-roundness issues. Goes to show that wood is a tricky material.
Hey ya, Mark! Glad to see you back in these waters. Gonna check put your posts....something tasty, no doubt...
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