Electric question for Remote switch Powermatic 3520b

[Bob Coates]

Want to put a remote switch on 3520b. I was looking at a grizzly H8241 which is a 110 volt switch. I understand how to hook it up, but when I tried to check the voltage at the push button where the wire has to be changed, I got no reading. Would there be a problem using this switch?
Thanks Bob

[Steve Schlumpf]

Bob - I am assuming that if you measured no voltage that you do have some electrical experience?? The switch you posted will work - but really, it all depends on how you wire everything up. I wired everything for my Jet 1642-2 and only used a regular - and cheap - light switch.

[Thomas Canfield]

I am like Steve and use a regular light switch, but I am now using a "damp location" switch cover (has separate toggle to move the switch) from Home Depot to better protect the switch from dust. I originally used a heavy duty industrial switch (not dust proof) and had a failure after about a year. A standard switch exposed to all the dust will fail fairly fast. The "damp" switch cover got me a couple of years + of use and only about 2 weeks ago did I have a dust issue that prevented the switch from starting the lathe. All of my dust failures have prevented starting and not stopping. My switch is usually on my ways close at hand with the switch to the top and gets pretty much maximum dust exposure.

[Josh Bowman]

Also be aware the voltage at the switch will not be the 220 volts, it's a control circuit and has very little current flow and the voltage is different. On my Jet 1642 per Steve's directions and on my PM 3520b, I just pulled the yellow wire spade connector off the emergency PB switch and using a male spade going to my remote switch plugged that into the yellow spade, then using a female spade on the other remote switch wire, plugged it into the emergency PB switch. I have found that dust getting into the light switch will keep the machine form starting, so I've experimented with dust proofing the switch housing. The last revision seems to have helped, since I haven't had to blow out the switch to get the beast running again. The good part of using spades on the remote switch is, if you get a no start on the lathe, it's a snap to put the controls back to original configuration and trouble shoot.
Good luck.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Looking at the schematics for the PM, one side of the remote control switch (or the regular pull on-off stop switch in the absence of a remote control switch) is hooked to ground. The other side goes to an electrical connection on the inverter/motor controller. If I were a betting man, I would bet that the other side connects to some control voltage, most likely DC. It would be interesting to know if the switch is in the open or closed condition to allow the lathe to run.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Here's a tip if you are using a switch that might be affected by dust. I stuck my entire remote in a plastic bag. The magnet works through the bag and the dust stays out. The switch you mention will work as long as it is a single pole toggle of any kind. Do you know there is a web site focused on the 3520. Check it out at mustardmonster.weebly.com
faust

[Bill Hensley]

You just need to interrupt one lead on the back of the PB switch, the remote is wired in series to the PB switch.

I use some 2 conductor 16 ga. wire, a rocker type light switch, and mounted in a grey ABS/PVC? outlet box. I trimmed the switch cover to be flush with the box. Draped a piece of plastic over it and taped it in place, then covered the rest of the box with tape to keep all the dust out. I epoxied a magnet to the back of the box. I've had no problems with this setup.

[Dick Strauss]

Ken is right...most VFDs use 12-24V DC for control signals. The control signals need very little current (typically in the 20mA range) so wire size is not real important.

[Reed Gray]

Well, maybe I am over simplifying this, but I have never understood, if you want a remote switch, why not just remove the standard switch from the headstock, extend the wiring, and make an enclosed box for the switch?

robo hippy

[Steve Schlumpf]

To the best of my knowledge, all the on/off switch does is toggle a logic ground.

Reed - your idea would work just fine but you end up with just the one switch being used. If you add a remote switch - wired in series - then both switches must be 'on' for the lathe to operate, yet either switch can shut the lathe down! Also, the original switch costs about $80 to replace. If you use a standard toggle light switch, cost is less than $2.

For anyone thinking about adding a remote to their Jet 1642 or their Powermatic 3520 series, I do have a PDF on the step by step process that I used to build my own remote switch. If interested, PM me. It is not a hard thing to do... as long as you follow some basic guidelines.

[Peter Elliott]

I started a new thread on my resolution and also some wiring info I found online.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...Switch-Upgrade

[Bob Coates]

Thanks guys for good info. I think I will get the switch and hope it is somewhat dust proof. Will add it to plastic box and add magnets to hold in place. I have check out the 3520 site and understood the wiring, just was wondering why no voltage, even DC.
Bob

[Reed Gray]

I think 2 on/off switches would confuse me. Though, have to admit that I never tried that type of set up. I have the remote on my Robust, and put it on the headstock, right where the one on my old PM was. I can't find it any place else. Old habits.....

robo hippy

[Baxter Smith]

Having the ability to control on/off, speed, forward and reverse from any spot on the lathe is very convenient. The time spent pulling the switch out of the headstock and making it movable was well worth it for me. I have done it with two 3520's and would not consider just adding another off/on switch..