I've settled on mineral oil and beeswax. Nice finish, easy to apply, relatively durable. I keep a bottle of it that I just need to heat up and use.
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I've settled on mineral oil and beeswax. Nice finish, easy to apply, relatively durable. I keep a bottle of it that I just need to heat up and use.
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
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[QUOTE=Howard Acheson;2014801]What do you mean by Minwax Butcher Block Oil? As far as I know and can determine, Minwax does not market a product by that name or a product specifically intended for a cutting board.
QUOTE]
Ah sorry, its Watco butcher block oil. I could have sworn it was Minwax that made it. So many products. Watco makes good products too. My bad.
Member
I choose it because it's not messy like liquids, smells nice and brings out the colors as well as oil with a flat sheen. I won't buy mineral oil so I won't comment on those.
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We are talking about a cutting board. Sheen is irrelevant. Gets a lot of knife marks. I only use extra virgin olive oil, applied sparingly and wiped off. Reoil every six months or so. Been using the same cutting board (hard maple) for 15 years.
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Walnut oil is the only nut oil that will not get rancid.....there's nothing wrong with mineral oil but I personally like using a nut oil instead of a petroleum product. Walnut oil will definitely dry (so will mineral oil) but it does take longer than a regular finish. I put a couple coats of straight walnut oil and then the last coat is a oil/beeswax blend. Any re-freshening coats get the oil/wax blend. Re-freshening is a function of use----more use, more frequent re-freshening!
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I make a lot of cutting boards, mostly edge grain out of cutoffs in my shop. I always finish them with a mix of mineral oil and beeswax. Make sure you warm it up before applying. Three or four coats on all my new boards. I recommend to clients to rub in a couple coats of mineral oil every few months after that.
I got tired of making my own 'mix' so I now use Howard Products 'Butcher Block Conditioner'. It's a mix of mineral oil, beexwax and carnauba wax. Put a bottle in some hot water until warm and then rub it in. Wait 15 minutes, wipe off the excess, then re-apply (for new boards). Easy peasy.
You can get 12oz. bottles at Home Depot or online
http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Inter...&storeId=10051
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Re-oiling is irrelevant. it does nothing useful for the wood.
Member
Montgomery- with daily use the oil/wax will wear off making it easier for water to soak into the wood. Re-oiling (or re-oil/waxing) protects the board. I'm not tryin to argue but I can't understand how re-oiling is 'irrelevant'??
Member
I have just completed an order for 40 edge grain boards. I decided on the mineral oil beeswax blend to finish them. One thing is that I found a supplier for a thinner viscosity food safe mineral oil. Much easier to use than what is purchased in pharmacies and appears to absorb better than the thicker mineral oil.
Three good coats and then buff with a soft rag. This works for me.
Epilog 45 watt, Graphtec cutter-plotter, Corel Graphics Suite X3 - X4, HP and Vaio computers, woodshop.
"Trust, but Verify"
Member
I use BLO - reapply every 6 months - works for me but I don't put the boards in the sink - just rinse & wipe dry.
[OP]
Member
Ok, so I gave my wife the cutting board, which she loves. Here is what I did, what I think I messed-up on, and what to do....?...:
What I did: I purchased the Howard oil/wax from Home Depot. I warmed it up, and applied 3-4 coats (can't remember now).
Messed up possibly: I'm thinking I should have applied a couple of coats of oil only, then the oil/wax mixture....
The reason I think I should have done that, is because before use, it was baby-butt smooth. After a use, and subsequent washing, the maple (maple/purpleheart board) grain has risen, giving an uneven, rough cuttingboard.
So...what to do. I am assuming a re-sanding is in order here. But, I have never attempted to sand something that has been oiled with mineral oil (After finding the rough surface, the board has been coated a few times with oil-only Howard oil)...
I could use a bit of advise here, please...
Thanks!
[OP]
Member
Ok, so I gave my wife the cutting board, which she loves. Here is what I did, what I think I messed-up on, and what to do....?...:
What I did: I purchased the Howard oil/wax from Home Depot. I warmed it up, and applied 3-4 coats (can't remember now).
Messed up possibly: I'm thinking I should have applied a couple of coats of oil only, then the oil/wax mixture....
The reason I think I should have done that, is because before use, it was baby-butt smooth. After a use, and subsequent washing, the maple (maple/purpleheart board) grain has risen, giving an uneven, rough cuttingboard.
So...what to do. I am assuming a re-sanding is in order here. But, I have never attempted to sand something that has been oiled with mineral oil (After finding the rough surface, the board has been coated a few times with oil-only Howard oil)...
I could use a bit of advise here, please...
Thanks!
Member
+1 - Maybe not the best but I like to use it and I agree with the post above about its quality and sheen.Originally Posted by thomas prusak
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
Member
Gary,
It's not a big deal and you didn't mess up. It's not unusual for the grain to raise after washing and then drying. Simply knock it back down with some 220 or higher sandpaper. You might even need to do it again after another few washings. I will wash mine (and other wooden utensils) with a scouring pad, and that takes care of it also.
Member
Gary,
I raise the grain once and knock it back lightly with 220 or 320 grit paper before putting on a finish (I use walnut oil on edge grain boards, salad bowl finish followed by walnut oil on end grain boards). I also generally raise the grain again after a coat of finish is on, and knock it back by wet sanding with more walnut oil. This does the trick. It is more work to do it this way, but I do it so the gift recipient or customer doesn't have a fuzzy board after one use. So, you should have no trouble smoothing it by wet sanding with your oil/wax mixture you originally used.
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