buffing epoxy resin

[Alan L Carter]

I've been experimenting with epoxy resin as a design element and am having problems getting the clarity back when I sand and buff. I just made a practice piece with the center of an inverted bowl shape scooped out and filled with System 3 Clear Coat resin. When it cured it was nice and clear- really clear. After I turned it to the shape I wanted, I started sanding it and finished with a 12000 grit pad, going through the grits. I also used a little Maguiere's car buffing compound. The result was a somewhat hazy finish. It was fairly clear, but not transparent like it was before I worked it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get that clarity back? Do I need to use pads with finer grits, buffing compounds, polish, etc.? Any ideas would be most appreciated.

[Brian Brown]

Alan,

I have little experience with epoxy resin, but because so many adhesives are affected by heat, I wonder if heat buildup from the friction of sanding is causing a break down of the resin deeper under the the surface, and creating the cloudiness you see. Maybe some way of cooling the surface as you sand. Just come work in my shop in the winter time. That will keep it cool...and you too.

By the way, your work is amazing!

[Harry Robinette]

Alan
When I have used it I sanded to only 2000 and then used Maguiere's plastic polish. It got pretty clean no haze. I was told that for this type application to use the Mirror Coat but have not tried it yet.

[Joe Ruden]

Let me preface this by saying I have never done anything in resin as large as a bowl. I have poured my own pen blanks with polyester resin. I used sand paper up through about 600 grit and then use micro-mesh. It has worked very well. I also use the Maguiars PlastX after all the sanding has been completed.

[Paul Williams]

I would try spraying a top coat after sanding, and polish the top coat.

[Clarence Smith]

I know I'm a bit late but the problem was you did it by hand.

You have to machine polish it.