Dyed Ash Bowl (a tribute to Bill Neddow)

[Richard Madden]

Glenn, I'll try and give a step by step, but you can always modify to suit.
After finish turning, I applied the Walnut Oil as described above. Reverse and finish the bottom. Before dyeing, I used a brass bristle brush on the outside to clean out any dust in the open grain. This is important, to keep the grain clear of any residue and have a place for the shoe polish. Apply dye of your choice. When dry, I used gloss WOP, but Bill used salad bowl finish. What you want is to seal the dye to maintain the black color, otherwise the white shoe polish will turn the whole piece gray. Thin coats of sealer (WOP or salad bowl finish, or whatever you choose) are important because you don't want to fill the grain. Two or three coats should do it. Shoe polish, or liming wax is applied to a small area at a time. Don't cover the entire piece or you will have a heck of a time rubbing it all out. Buff the polish as you go. If the dye has been sealed well, the only polish remaining will be in the grain. Of course, open grain woods like oak and ash are going to work best. I buffed this bowl when done with Ren wax, but that may not be necessary...your choice. I hope this helps, but if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. And by all means, show us your work!!

[Richard Madden]

Thanks, Prashun and Jerry for the comments. Give it a shot sometime.

[George Morris]

Richard well done ! Great look, I have been experiment with trans tint dye also. The difference in what I am doing is after dying I cover it in liming wax wipe off then wipe on netural shoe polish this takes off any remaining liming wax all while wearing gloves! Then I spray with a Mohawk product M102-0612 perfect blend waterborne lacquer. Got this info from Andy DiPierto a very fine turner.