Learning new Sliding TS and need Advice

[Michael Koons]

As I've posted, I've got my SC4 Elite up and working over the weekend. I have a couple of questions for all of you slider owners out there.

1. Do you still find you need a compound miter saw? I have a long table for my CMS and could frankly use the room that that table is taking up. With the long fence and outrigger attached to my sliding TS, it seems to me I can do all my cross cutting on the slider now.

2. I'm finding the 5/8" arbor is REALLY snug for my existing blades. Every standard blade I own and the 1" to 5/8" bushing the MiniMax gave me are very tight on the arbor, to the point where I can't get certain blades mounted on the arbor. The bushing they gave me for the 12" blade gets stuck on the arbor and was nearly impossible to get off. Is there anything I can do to help this? Has anyone else experienced this with their Euro sliders? Seems like I need the arbor shaved down 1/128" of an inch or so to give me better clearance.

Thanks for the help.

[David Hawxhurst]

i'm only keeping my cms because i can't trim (crosscut) a 10' long piece on my slider. i don't have that much space to the left of my blade.

sounds like the arbor set up is similar to a shaper set up as far as fit goes. the spacer should fit very snug and needs to be line up almost perfectly straight or it will bind and be very difficult to move. you might try some light oil or waxing the arbor and spacer. i would not "shave" down anything as these parts are machined to very tight tolerances to perform correctly. i have a felder so my arbor set up is completely different than yours.

[Mike Wilkins]

Congrats on the slider purchase. As for the miter saw for crosscuts-I don't have the space to keep one in my shop, so the slider gets crosscutting duty. Lots of folks who purchase a slider find out that a miter saw is no longer needed, and welcome the extra real estate.
I too have to use a spacer bushing to utilize 12" blades on the 5/8" arbor. These high-tech washers are designed to be snug so as not to introduce any unwanted vibes and run-out in the blade. I find if I don't pull the bushing straight out without wiggling it, there will be resistance. I would be hesitant to file or shave it for fear of making it too loose and making for a sloppy fit. You may want to check to insure there are no burrs or rough edges on the bushing.
Stay safe and watch those fingers. Which is much easier to do with a slider.

[Michael Koons]

Thank you both. I think my suggestion of "shaving" was stupid. I did apply some dry lubricant to the rip fence sliding bar and it worked like a charm. I will try the same on the arbor. It may help.

[Mike Ruggeri]

I find that I only use my miter saw for really long items (and even then I have cut some long things on it) and infrequently crown molding. Otherwise, I use my slider. I even built a quick jig to fit in the slot on the slider that is similar to a sled on a traditional saw so I can easily and accurately cut 45 degree miters (just a simple piece of plywood with a runner to fit in the slot in the slider and fences for 45 degree angles - 1 each way). I like the sled as it takes two seconds to pop in and I don't have to worry about my 90 degree crosscut fence coming out of perfect alignment when doing a project where I am jumping back and forth.

The blade on my saw does fit tight. My old Unisaw was the same, so I guess I just am used to tight fitting blades plus I don't really change blades that frequently (generally keep 12" Forrest combo in). Also, I figured tight = closer tolerances.

[johnny means]

Depending on what type of work you do, you may run into some cuts that cannot be done on a slider. This would be especially true with crown moldings that can't be cut face down. Remember your slider only tilts one way, making inside corners a problem. Also, once the novelty wears off, you won't want to deal with the slider for quick little cuts like making a peg from a dowel or for repetitive cutting of small parts.

[Rod Sheridan]

CMS has been given to a neighbour now that I have a slider, the shop is getting cleaner and cleaner........LOL............Regards, Rod.

P.S. No idea on the saw arbour, mine has a 30mm bore.

[joe pezza]

hit the arbor with boeshield dry lube. i had a problem with the forrest blades i have. i also use freud blades and found they are very snug but with a little back and forth rotation while gently pulling the blade off works. the forrest im afraid to put back on, it was a bear coming off. 5/8 arbor is what im reffering to.
joe

ps, keep the coumpound saw, very nice when you need to make a cut and the slider is set up for a different cut, or the scoring blade is raised. maybe me being lazy, but!!!