Rub-Out/Polishing Help - Newly Completed Desk

[Nate Secrist]

Hi - I just finished a writing desk - Maple with Purpleheart options. - I just sprayed it with General Poly - Satin Finish.
The desk got about 4 coats. The top of the top got about 7 coats total.


I would like to do a little polishing to make it smooth. I have used the Menzerna Method that Jerry Work shows in his Water-Based Finishing .pdf with great results on other projects.
However, Purpleheart is a very open-grained wood - on a previous cutting board project, I had a bunch of the Menzerna Bright Polishing Paste (the final step) get "stuck" down in the grain of the purpleheart - I could not get it out - it looked bad. So I don't want to use the Menzerna method for this desk.

What are some other ways to polish? I am not looking for a mirror-finish like I can do with the Menzerna - More of a soft, satin/semi-gloss look.

Can anyone point me to an article, or other post that may explain how to do this?

I will probably give it one light sanding of 400-grit, then what?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Nate

[John R Hoppe]

Since you have 7 coats to work with your finish is nice and thick so here is how I would do it. First, wet sand with the 400 wet/dry paper to flatten it out and remove the bumps. Second wet sanding with 600 to blend the scratch pattern. Then rub the surface to the desired gloss with a mixture of pumice powder and water on a rubbing pad. The dense poly foam used in packing works great for this and if you wrap it in felt or similar cloth it carries the pumice well. Pumice comes in a couple of grades so you may have to experiment to get the desired sheen, but it wont put a glossy finish on the surface. Look around for "rubbing wax" at the finish supplier, and use it for the final step to get an even finish. A final coat of a good furniture wax completes the process.

I have used this process many times and it is simple and relatively easy to do. You get a flat and very luxurious looking sheen to the finish when done.

[Bill White]

Be SURE that ya let the finish cure well.
Bill

[Frank Drew]

Very important point from Bill; real curing takes a lot longer than drying to the touch, and you'll get much better results rubbing out a fully cured (hardened) finish.

I've had good results polishing clear finishes with an electric automotive buffer, foam pad, and Meguiars' polishing compounds. Variable speed would be a good feature; mine ran a little bit too fast, probably, even though it did good work.

[Jim Andrew]

When I used to rub down lacquer, used pumice and oil, and then rottenstone and water. The rottenstone would really put a shine on the lacquer. Been 40 years since I did it. Started out with 400 paper, then the pumice and oil, and then the rottenstone. The rottenstone is really fine grit, can hardly feel the grit, but it really brings out the shine.

[Guy Belleman]

Poly takes a while to cure well for rubbing out. Even when I used hard varnish, the result after waiting several days was much better than after the 12 hours advertised on the can. Waiting can be difficult, but the result will be better. You want the coating fully cured all the way through. Wet sanding, then polishing compound, and wax, should provide a nice surface. Always be careful when sanding near the corners & edges.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Don't laugh but....

Toohpaste, then a brown paper bag rub down will give an utra smooth surface that begs to be touched.

Any gets stuck in the pores & you can blot it up w/a wet rag.

I use it (toothpaste) all the time for a fine polishing compound.
Since you're already at a satin sheen, you don't need anything more aggressive to take the sheen down.

Run some of the General on some scraps and give it a try.
I think you'll be very happy w/the results.

[David Winer]

There are many good tips in this series of replies. But realize that no matter how you go about it the necessary sequence of steps is a long process, requiring patience--especially letting the finish harden before rubbing. I have had good success with Jim Andrew's suggested materials (pumice + oil, then rottenstone + water). There are fineness grades in these two rubbing compounds, so you can choose to stop rubbing finer once you reach your goal.

Before replying here, I Googled the phrase, "piano finish." I found abundant advice there about achieving superior finishes. Abundant!

[Peter Aeschliman]

One of the OP's main concerns has yet to be addressed- the paste/dust from the sanding process filling the pores of the open-grained purpleheart.

I actually ran into a similar problem with walnut today... My finish was different than yours (2-3 coats "tung oil" finish, 3 coats of wipe on poly), but the problem was the same. The white "paste" left over by the sanding process filled the open grain. No matter how much I wiped the finish down with water, I couldn't get it out.

What I ended up doing is diluting the wipe on poly even further with mineral spirits. I did this to get it really thin so it would level easily and fall down into the pores of the wood. I rubbed it in using a lint free rag. It seems that the finish bonded with the paste and it disappeared. No signs of material in the pores at all.

Next time I work with an opened grain wood that I intend to wet sand, I'll fill the grain. Lesson learned. But my remedy seems to have worked fine.

[Rich Engelhardt]

One of the OP's main concerns has yet to be addressed- the paste/dust from the sanding process filling the pores of the open-grained purpleheart.

Actually - - two posts up I did just that..
Toothpaste will get down in the pores, but, blotting it with a wet towel will remove it.
FWIW - Pepsodent is the best to use. It's the most abrasive @ the most affordable price.
Tarter Control Crest is more abrasive, but, it's more expensive & it has other additives which make it less uesable as a polish.

[Howard Acheson]

You are correct to be worried about smoothing residue collecting in the deep pores. The best way to deal with deep pored woods is to first use a filler to get a smooth surface. I would avoid any wet sanding or the use of anything opaque like pumice. The wet residue will dry in the pores making it impossible to get out.

Dry sanding can also be problematic. I recommend you take the time to test your planned process on some prepared boards.

[Rich Engelhardt]

The best way to deal with deep pored woods is to first use a filler to get a smooth surface

After 7 coats of poly, as the OP says he has on there, I think it's a little late in the game to fill the grain.

Absolutely the best way to handle the open pores is to fill the grain,,,,,,but,,,,,the OP is at the stage where the piece is finished - he's not just starting out...

[John TenEyck]

You sprayed a satin finish and you want a satin/semi-gloss finish. I'm not sure what you are trying to achieve. If you sprayed it you should already have a nice, uniform surface, assuming you prepped it properly, with nothing more than a dust nib or two. If true, I see no reason to do anything other than maybe rub it with a paper bag after a couple of weeks of curing. If you want it to be even smoother and slightly glossier, then 0000 steel or brass wool or a synthetic pad backed by a rubber or cork block with paste or car wax will get you there with minimal effort. If you use colored wax any that gets in the pores won't show.

John

[Howard Acheson]

This is how I would deal with the problem. It's a method to fill the pores with the top coat finish. The article talks about using shellac, but any clear finish will work. With seven coats already applied, he's almost there.

http://www.hardwoodlumberandmore.com...h-Shellac.aspx

[Rich Engelhardt]

With seven coats already applied, he's almost there.

According to the OP he has 7 coats - but - is that 7 coats of satin or six of gloss and one of satin.
If it's the former, then do you think it's a wise idea to continue on w/more of the same?
I'd be concerned @ this point that more satin is going to obscure the wood.