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Thread: New bandsaw owner - need advice

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    I have the LX as well. Prashun gives ya the correct sizes and tooth counts. Those are what I use.
    I have a local company that cuts my blades for me to 92 1/2". Don't have a riser, and I understand that the kit is not yet available for the LX.
    I set the guide bearings just off the blade and behind the gullets as was stated. The thrust bearing is set just behind the blade-not touching.
    I am very well pleased with the saw.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Northern Oregon
    Posts
    1,820
    Quote Originally Posted by James Heisbert View Post
    How long have you been using those blades from Oregon Carbide saw? What are your recommendations?
    I bought one 1/4" 4 tpi Sterling blade from them 2 years ago for my 21" saw. It's a good blade. I will buy from them again.

  3. Watch this video - http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolG....aspx?id=34055. It shows you how to properly setup your new saw.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Middle Earth MD
    Posts
    682

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    westchester cty, NY
    Posts
    796
    and when you want the best old scholl band saw advice around, contact lou iturra @ iturra design. no website but he can be reached here:

    http://www.manta.com/c/mmc3znn/iturra-design

    when you confront that problem that no one else can resolve, he'll get you through it, IMHO.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Beautiful Northern California
    Posts
    40
    With that style of guide you can go to zero clearance; when you read setup advice, make sure they are talking about the same style of guide. The sheet of writing paper thing is for solid blocks (which IMO are better for curves, but everyone wants a high tech look these days). Set yours for just touching on both sides, but make sure the blade is not being pushed by the guides out of its natural alignment between the wheels. Rotate the top wheel by hand. If you get a tight spot it's likely a weld that has not been properly ground (unless the blade is kinked--the one time I got blades from Grizzly years ago, this was the case, brand new). Based on my experience, the blade you got from Griz is junk. Don't look for the cheapest blades; good ones don't break the bank. The quality of the weld is critical; a good saw shop should know what they are doing.

    Timberwolf blades (get them from Suffolk Machinery and they will be well made) have an aggressive hook profile and cut great when new, but don't cut well for as long as Starrett, which are closer to a skip tooth design. I don't have as much experience with Lennox, but I think they are similar to Starrett.

    Steel bandsaw blades are an expendable shop supply item. They wear out. Replace them regularly.
    Last edited by Howard Klepper; 08-10-2012 at 1:34 PM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
    Posts
    7,628
    If you bought the saw new, and are using the blade that came with it, toss the blade in the trash.
    Really.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,453
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill White View Post
    Don't have a riser, and I understand that the kit is not yet available for the LX
    Bill
    It is now... http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rise...G0555LX/T25555
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    "It is now... http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rise...G0555LX/T25555 "

    Add reads "not available for immediate shipment."
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,453
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill White View Post
    "It is now... http://www.grizzly.com/products/Rise...G0555LX/T25555 "

    Add reads "not available for immediate shipment."
    Bill
    Oops, my bad. I saw it listed and didn't read the fine print.
    I'm curious, why is this riser different from the other 14" Grizzly saw risers. It looks like they all use the same one, except this one. Any idea what the difference is?
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

  11. #26
    First, set your blade tension, then set about the guides.
    When setting the guides, use a flashlight. With a light source behind the guides, it will be much easier to determine when the guides are [or are not] touching the blade. With a little practice, you will be able to determine only a few thousands of an inch.
    Works for me.

  12. Quote Originally Posted by Myk Rian View Post
    If you bought the saw new, and are using the blade that came with it, toss the blade in the trash.
    Really.
    One vote for this! Saw manufacturer’s bring factory blades when they deliver the saw you purchase from them. And those blades totally suck

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tacoma, WA
    Posts
    35
    I guess the guides will just take some practice. They are each mounted on an off-center post and adjusted by turning, but seem to move quite a bit when the cap screw is tightened. Doesn't seem like a very intelligent design, but it is what it is, I guess. I'm sure I'll get the hang of it.

    Yes, I bought the machine brand new, and it is the stock blade that I'm currently using. I had a feeling that the blade was crap, and the more I mess with it the more convinced I am of this. I'm going to order myself a couple of new, decent blades and see what kind of difference that makes. In the meantime I'll check out the books/videos posted here and keep at it.

    Some really good stuff here. I really appreciate all the advice, folks.

  14. I guess those guides are designed that way so it won’t block the blade if you over adjust them closer to the blade. Just a wild guess.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ft. Wayne, IN
    Posts
    1,453
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Dreyer View Post
    I guess the guides will just take some practice. They are each mounted on an off-center post and adjusted by turning, but seem to move quite a bit when the cap screw is tightened. Doesn't seem like a very intelligent design, but it is what it is, I guess. I'm sure I'll get the hang of it.
    That is what I was talking about when I said that they were tedious and difficult to align properly. And, that is exactly why I switched them out for the Carter guides. If you get their "Micro-Adjust" model (which is what I chose, and highly recommend) it will set you back $234, but you will not believe the difference. They adjust easily and precisely, the run truer, and they are so quiet in comparison to the stock guides. I had my saw for two years before I switched and I never did "get the hang of it", I just kept getting more and more frustrated. I really disliked using the saw. Now I use it all the time, and love it.
    "I've cut the dang thing three times and it's STILL too darn short"
    Name withheld to protect the guilty

    Stew Hagerty

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