Finish List

[John Hart]

Ok...first, I'd like to thank Keith for creating a Finishing Forum. This is an area that I really have had little or no education, and since I've had no one to interact with over the last 20+ years of woodworking, I've relied on trial and error and hearing little bits and pieces on TV and radio.

So, some of you might find this surprising, but there are a number of things that everyone talks about as if everyone knows what it is, when, in fact, I've never heard of it. Take BLO. I have no idea what that is. But everyone talks about it so I'm too embarrassed to ask. (so now I am officially embarrassed)

Does anyone have a list they can post that describes all the types of finishes and solvents and compounds? Kinda like a glossary of terms that a cave dweller like m'self can refer back to when I don't know what you're talking about?

Thanks!

[David Fried]

Boiled Linseed Oil. ( One of the few I know )

[Doug Shepard]

Just FYI. BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil.. Great stuff for enhancing grain on hardwoods. Cherry and figured Maple really look good under it. It's cheap, easy to use, and available just about anyplace that sells finish for wood.

[John Hart]

Ok Thanks...so what do I do?...I'm assuming that I buy Linseed Oil then boil it and wipe it on hot then wipe it off?

It's amazing when you find out what you don't know that you should know but you don't know that you don't know...you know?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

John....I've look for "unboiled"/raw linseed oil locally and haven't been able to find it. Most of the stuff I've seen locally is already boiled.

[Doug Shepard]

Ok Thanks...so what do I do?...I'm assuming that I buy Linseed Oil then boil it and wipe it on hot then wipe it off?

It's amazing when you find out what you don't know that you should know but you don't know that you don't know...you know?

It comes that way. It will say 'Boiled Linseed Oil' right on the can. As Ken mentioned, the raw (unboiled) stuff is actually harder to find.

[Matt Meiser]

I read somewhere that boiled linseed oil hasn't actually been boiled. I means that they have added driers to speed up the drying process.

You can apply it right out of the can, you can thin it with mineral spirits to make it soak in a little better, or you can heat it in a double boiler to about 130 degrees to make it thinner so that it will soak in better. I recently tried the heating approach and found it worked quite nicely. Further coats (you'll need several) can be right out of the can.

Another technique I recently tried is to mix 1/3 BLO, 1/3 mineral spirits, and 1/3 polyurethane. You can apply by wiping or brushing, allow it to sit for a little while, then buff off the excess. The finish looks like oil, but has added protection from the poly.

[Cecil Arnold]

You can also use BLO mixed 1/3 BLO 2/3 mineral spirits to freshen up antique arts & crafts oak. Apply with 0000 steel wool, work in, wipe off and let dry. If you are using BLO to bring out grain on hardwoods you must know that you will have to put an overcoat on it, especally on drawers, or SWMBO will have a fit over the smell. The best thing I have found is shellac. You can follow this up with whatever you choose since the shellac acts as a sealer and takes care of most compatibitily problems. I have used it under varnish, laquer, and water based (Endnuro).

[Andy Henriksen]

I too get overwhelmed by finishing - all the products, manufacturers, and the endless mixes available. It would be great to see a list of all the commonly (or uncommonly) used finishes, what they are most appropriate for, etc. Actually could make for a great magazine centerfold pullout poster type of thing.

I actually just used BLO and Paste Wax for the first time on a project, and got OK results. The BLO took to the wood wonderfully (walnut), but the wax was difficult to buff into an even sheen. Seems sorta blotchy.

Anyone ever made a sample board of the various finishes they use, on various woods? That would be a neat tool to compare them. Would take a good photographer to make it useful online though, I suppose.

Finally, I would like to give a thumbs up to the creation of this new forum. Such a huge amount of info available on finishing, yet something that you may not want to bother sorting through until you need it.

[John Miliunas]

OK, seeing as to how John brought up something, which many may feel as "basic" information, here's another bit of basic info: BLO also happens to be one of the MOST notorious sources of spontaneous combustion!!!! Many a shop have been turned to ashes from leaving oil-soaked rags in a pile or untended garbage can! Please, dispose of properly! I usually like to lay mine out flat on the cement until thoroughly dry. Other guys put them in a sealed can of water. I've even heard other of burning them in their "regular" burn pile. Whatever you do, don't just bunch up used, oil-soaked rags and throw them in the corner or even in with the rest of your garbage! Once completely dry, they can be disposed of as any other refuse. Enjoy the BLO, but use it responsibly!

[Jim Becker]

John, that applies to any of the oil-based finishing products, not just BLO...dispose of the rags correctly. I hang them on a big spike out on a landscape wall away from the shop so they can blow in the breeze and cure before they go in the trash can...which is fine once they are "hard".

[Bob Hovde]

BLO isn't "perfect," however. I turned a plate from cobolo and, not having prepared very well, found that I only had some (old) BLO for a finish. It seemed OK, so I applied it. The plate turned almost black and I eventually had to sand it off and start over. I'm not sure my problem was the cocobolo, the BLO, or just the combination.

Bob

[John Hart]

Thanks so much to everyone for your help. I believe that I'll start using BLO. I read today at a site that gives instruction on building humidors, that he recommends BLO then 10 coats of laquer...The BLO to bring out the beauty of the wood and the laquer for the deep finish.

In the next few days, I'm going to surf the internet and get a couple of hundred finishing tidbits and compile them into a database. I'll post that database in this thread. Unfortunately, I can not confirm the accuracy of what I'll find, so I hope that you'll all help steer me.
Thanks