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Thread: Wet Sanding

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Feeding Hills, MA
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    61

    Wet Sanding

    What should be used for wet sanding? I've seen one suggestion of soapy water and another suggestion of the BLO/Thinner/Poly mixture. I tried the mixture and it seemed to bind the sandpaper. Was difficult to use with sandpaper but worked OK with extra-fine steel wool.
    --------------------
    Bill Smith

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,675
    I wet sand with just BLO. That creates a slurry that fills small pores meanigfully since the oil cures. I would never "sand" wood wet. Once there is shellac or a varnish on the piece, if I want to "wet" sand, I just use some mineral spirits as a lubricant and use wet and dry paper, usually 400 or finer, depending where in the process I am.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    What are the advantages of wet sanding? Where should it be used and not used?
    Jeff Sudmeier

    "It's not the quality of the tool being used, it's the skills of the craftsman using the tool that really matter. Unfortunately, I don't have high quality in either"

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Sudmeier
    What are the advantages of wet sanding? Where should it be used and not used?
    "Wet" sanding is used for different purposes at different times. When used with an oil or varnish oil, it can be used to do some grain filling as the slurry you create gets packed into the tiny voids and stays there as the oil cures.

    "Wet" sanding a reactive finish (varnish, for example) or an evaporative finish (shellac and lacquer) after they are cured provides some lubrication, making for a better polish. This is usually done with very fine materials, both paper and micromesh. And you can easily wipe off the slury during the process, too. I use mineral spirits for this purpose. (One should always clean off the surfaces between grits to avoid scratching from "break-away grit" from the previous step)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
    Jeff,

    If you are fine sanding a finish, the paper will clog up almost immediately. By using a lubricant (water works fine if you're sanding a FINISH and not WOOD), it keeps the grain of the sandpaper clear. If you are leveling a varnish prior to rubbing it out, wet or dry 600 grit works great. (Does anyone else still "rub out" a finish? I do it because I'm such a lousy finisher in the first place. )

    Bob
    Spinning is good on a lathe, not good in a Miata.

  6. #6
    Thanks Guys! This new forum is GREAT!
    Jeff Sudmeier

    "It's not the quality of the tool being used, it's the skills of the craftsman using the tool that really matter. Unfortunately, I don't have high quality in either"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Conway, Arkansas
    Posts
    13,181
    Jeff,

    I wet sand on the lathe a lot. I use mineral spirits soaked shop towel and apply it to the slowly spinning wood. I then place the sandpaper on the opposite side of the MS soaked rag so that the MS gets to the paper quickly and helps to float away wood particles. When using fine grits, I have found it good to sand wet and then hand sand less wet and let it dry. The MS helps the wood surface be softer to cut, provide a lube to the paper and drastically cuts down on the airborne dust particulate. Besides that, after wet sanding, the surface has a feel of being as slick as glass.

    Just my 2¢ worth.
    Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
    Dennis -
    Get the Benefits of Being an SMC Contributor..!
    ....DEBT is nothing more than yesterday's spending taken from tomorrow's income.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pa
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    2,266
    Bob,
    I still rub out just about every finish I use. That way I can control sheen.
    Alan Turner
    Philadelphia Furniture Workshop

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    New Orleans LA
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    1,334
    I'm with you, Bob. I love a varnished finis that has been rubbed out. Come to think of it, I've never rubbed out any other kind. With the pads and abrasives one can get for the ROS now it is no longer a big deal.
    18th century nut --- Carl

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