When to finish edge banding if using pre-finished ply for kitchen cabinets?

[mreza Salav]

I am planning (way ahead) for the possibility of building kitchen cabinets for a new house we are building next year.
An initial ball-park of $60-100k for cabinets has made me seriously considering this option, so have started looking into
different ways of building and have my first simple(?) question in a possibly very long series to come later:

If one uses pre-finished plywood for boxes in a frame-less cabinet, when and how do you apply the finish to edge banding?
Let's say the cabinet doors and the edge banding are going to be cherry (and possibly stained a little darker).

It seems awfully difficult to stain/finish the edge banding after they are applied...

[Sam Murdoch]

You can get prefinished edgebanding but I see that you want your edge to match the exteriors - good question . I guess (though I have not and hope to never need to) considering that the interiors will be prefin ply I would just apply the edge banding and finish the banding with a stain and then hand wiped poly. You shouldn't need to mask anything as long as you wipe the stain immediately off the ply as you do the edge band. Not much will stick to the prefin ply. Might also be able to use a pad lacquer on the tape rather than the poly, but I would try a sample before going too far. The lacquer might melt in to the prefin of the ply - could be difficult to control.

Curious to hear if others have actually done this. I'm pretty much strictly a face frame builder.

[frank shic]

fastcap makes a product called fastedge and has it in several shades. there's also a video on the site that shows you how to stain edgebanding after applying it.

[mreza Salav]

If you use face frame, do you finish the frame before installation? how do you get the edges flush with the box (if you do that) given that the sheet material are not necessarily even thickness?

fastcap makes a product called fastedge and has it in several shades. there's also a video on the site that shows you how to stain edgebanding after applying it.

But the stain/color may not match with the doors?

In general, how do people go about this if using pre-finished ply with frameless boxes? Do they make the edge banding the same color as the box? I know there are pre-finished banding too.

Waiting to hear from the crowd here....

[Sam Murdoch]

If you use face frame, do you finish the frame before installation? how do you get the edges flush with the box (if you do that) given that the sheet material are not necessarily even thickness?

Yes I finish the face frame before installing on the boxes prefinished plywood or otherwise - unless they are all the exact same finish. I flush the face frames to the boxes with biscuits. In the case of an 1-1/2" face frame and 2 slightly less than 3/4" ply sides I am always working off of the inside edge of the face frame and ply so the discrepancies in ply thickness are mitigated. If the FFs are wider I simply add spacers between my boxes. I think most people do not flush the insides but I have found this to be far more efficient and professional looking, and allows for complete access to a cabinet - no hidden corners that gather crap and/or require bumping out for drawer slides, hinges, etc.

[Leo Graywacz]

Staining it isn't that big of a deal, the pre finished ply would just wipe clean with alcohol and the stain would be gone. The finishing would require masking.

[frank shic]

the edge banding does not have to be a 100% match with the doors and drawer fronts. it'd probably be hard to achieve unless you use the same species wood.

[mreza Salav]

Staining it isn't that big of a deal, the pre finished ply would just wipe clean with alcohol and the stain would be gone. The finishing would require masking.

Masking the whole box (if spraying the edges) is something I thought professionals won't have the time to do. I am trying to see if there is an easier way.

the edge banding does not have to be a 100% match with the doors and drawer fronts. it'd probably be hard to achieve unless you use the same species wood.

Our current house has cabinets made by a big (Canadian) manufacturer and the edge banding (on melamine particle board) is an exact match to the doors (which is stained maple).
I thought of using the same species of the wood for doors and banding.

Given that I'll be building this for our own house I'm trying to not cut corners and get something that is at least as good as (or even better than) what I can contract out;
for this reason I'm trying to find the techniques pro's use.

I suppose I could use solid wood (say 1/4" thick) instead of edge banding to cover the edges. I could finish those strips and then just glue/pin them in place, but then again
it's hard to get that flush (on both inside and outside of the box) with plywood.

Am I making this more complicated than necessary?

[Jamie Buxton]

I've tried all sorts of things, and I've never found a way to edgeband prefinished plywood that gives results I like. I don't like vinyl edgebanding, because even the best vinyl doesn't look like wood. I've tried applying unfinished banding, trimming it flush, and staining/clearcoating to match. Trimming it exactly flush without scratching the prefinished is tricky at best. And "match" is always challenging. So I use unfinished plywood, band with 1/8" lumber of the same species, trim flush, ease the corners, and then apply the finish. It is laborious, but the only way to get results that I can live with.

[Leo Graywacz]

Masking is part of the job when it is part of the job. If you are planning on using the prefinished then plan on masking in the price. You would always hold up a paint cutting in knife and spray there, but that would likely end up with overspray because of the slow speed you would have to work at.

[Brian Weick]

Well now!.......look who I found........





B,

[Leo Graywacz]

Oh noooooo

[Steve Griffin]

One option is to make 1/4" thick banding yourself out of the primary wood. Finish this loose, exactly like the doors, and then pin nail/glue on the cabinets. It's basically free, as it uses up table saw fall off, and gives the cabinets a slightly higher quality look than the skinny tape.

Another option is to not bother to try and match the banding at all and keep your door reveals tight-- 1/16" and you don't see the banding anyway. I think banding that looks different than the plywood looks terrible anyway--it's nicer if it is the same wood as the plywood so it "goes away" and suggests solid wood.

[trevor adair]

I am "still" doing my kitchen and using pre-finished ply for the boxes. I am also using 1/2 pre-finished for the shelves. I bought pre-finished maple veneer banding from http://www.veneersupplies.com and have been very happy with it.. it covers the edge plys for the shelves perfectly. I know they also sell prefinished Cherry banding, you might try contacting them by email and see if he will send you a sample.. I have only ordered twice from them but have been very pleased both times... they are also quick to answer emails

[frank shic]

One option is to make 1/4" thick banding yourself out of the primary wood. Finish this loose, exactly like the doors, and then pin nail/glue on the cabinets. It's basically free, as it uses up table saw fall off, and gives the cabinets a slightly higher quality look than the skinny tape.

Another option is to not bother to try and match the banding at all and keep your door reveals tight-- 1/16" and you don't see the banding anyway. I think banding that looks different than the plywood looks terrible anyway--it's nicer if it is the same wood as the plywood so it "goes away" and suggests solid wood.

1/16" is REALLY TIGHT...